issues with my vs supercharger calais

[mz-v6-2c]

ok so i bought a vs calais v6 stock standard from a car yard, that ended up being defected to the max, so i converted it to a vs supercharger...
ok now since i replaced the whole front end the car was running immaculante, but in the last couple weeks it is been running in, i have run into some issues, now being a chick i know a bit about cars but maybe just not enough to get me through these issues.... first of all my air bag light started, the light wouldnt disappear at all when driving. then my horn stopped working, and my temp gage stopped working..so wed i took it to a auto electrician who has now informed me of some error codes that my trip putor has told him. i got a code 31, a code 23, a code 76 and a code 32...
now to my other issues mechanicly, i am hoping this is where these codes come from, cause seriously i would not have a clue on what these codes are, i have never heard of it.
ok my 1st issue is this grinding sound, if i am correct it is comming the passenger side front end of the car, near the gear box, this only happens when slowly moving the vechile or not giving the car any rev's...once i excelerate it disspears and makes me feel like i am hearing things. i have noticed that if i do exceed some speed it does occur again but then disspaears again, it has got me buggerd to what it is causei have learnt things on cars and never once have i heard this before, however i have a feeling it mayhave something to do with my tor convertor and i am truly hoping it is not that at all, and i am trying to block any thoughts on that lol.
onto my second issue, when climbing a hill my gears seem to rev out, it wont change gear, but my gear box is full of fluid and as i said before, it has all just been recently re built..
it slips and most of the time it dont want to change gear, and i know this sounds odd, but it only seems to be on hot days? it gets through 1st gear, struggles thru second (not jolting, just revs out) and struggles thru third.. but other times its fine.. its weird i know..
ok on my 3rd issue, when it first came home after rebuilding it, it had some speed, now it feels like it is struggling to even drive. sometimes it idles ruff and almost is bout to staul but thankfully it dosnt. and now for some odd reason i am chewing alot of petrol? i am getting about 120 k's outta a full tank and this car is now sending me broke.. grr...
ok onto my last issue, when i brake it makes a like a hollow sound, like my brakes are wet, but they arnt? and it only seems to sound more from the passenger side again, but i have brand new disks and brakes...
can anybody help out there please... thankyou for reading this

[_R_J_K_]

You can check for error codes yourself by using this page - Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)

These are your error codes -

Code 23 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) high voltage
Code 31 - Theft Deterrent Signal missing
Code 32 - Manifold Air Flow Sensor
Code 76 - Air/Fuel ratio variation between left and right banks

As for the conversion, was it an L67 transplant or was it an aftermarket charger? Are you using the correct ECU and memcal?

[mz-v6-2c]

You can check for error codes yourself by using this page - Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)

These are your error codes -

Code 23 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) high voltage
Code 31 - Theft Deterrent Signal missing
Code 32 - Manifold Air Flow Sensor
Code 76 - Air/Fuel ratio variation between left and right banks

As for the conversion, was it an L67 transplant or was it an aftermarket charger? Are you using the correct ECU and memcal?

yeah i did google em, but would not even understand it one bit... i think it is more to the point on how to fix it and how much i am looking at.
hmmm on the conversion response, um orignaly it was a holden calais vs , but the engine i droped in it was a supercharged v6 caprice i think 1997 , complete motor n box and wiring harnis, the motor had 150 thousand k's and i jumped for it... i got 6 months warrenty from my wreckor, but i just dont understsand how and what it is i have to do to fix these error codes, do they all fall in place with my current issues i am having with my car at the moment?
thankyou so much for you response

[mz-v6-2c]

yeah i goggled the error codes last night but my concern on it is i dont no what it is exactly what i need to repair, or how much it will cost? like ccode 31? what does tht mean? does this mean i have something missing from the moboliser or? and how do i repair this? how much in ur opinion do you recon it would be to repair all my issues there?, and do you think that all my issues i am havin g with my vechile are they related to these error codes? aw it is really plaaying with my head now..
as to the conversion, orig i have a v6 calais v6 echo tech motor, but it was full of defects and my wreckor told me tht i could get a "caprice v6 supercharger statemen 1997 engine and box complete with wiring harnis and 150 thousand k's for 2500, and it would be complete switch, no issues, so i dont know if that answers your question lol but being a female i dont realy understand the high talk on cars lol... i understand motor etc and if i was to break down and standard repairs but yeah *sighs*

[Cheap6]

first of all my air bag light started, the light wouldnt disappear at all when driving.

Unfortunately, the air bag light could be a due to a number of things. If you don't mind getting dirty and perhaps removing a few pieces of trim, one simple check is to make sure that all the air bag connectors are connected () properly. The various airbag components are under the steering column, the dash and under the driver's seat. Basically, anything with a bright safety yellow wiring harness or connector is associated with the airbag.

You should also check that the fuses for the airbag are not blown. The fuses should be labelled and behind the cover under the steering column.

It is also possible to extract fault codes for the airbag system using a diagnostic tool = dealer and $$$.

then my horn stopped working

Check the fuses and relay for the horn, under the bonnet and labelled on the cover over them (swap the relay with another one and recheck the horn). Also check the horn is actually plugged in - the horn(s) is (are) behind the front bumper bar cover on the driver's side - two metal discs(ish) items on Calais.

One other thing: has the steering wheel been removed and replaced? There is an electrical connection between the steering wheel and the wiring for the horn, and another for the airbag.

my temp gage stopped working

This could be the gauge itself or a wiring connection. As the engine has been removed and replaced recently, most likely it is the connection at the engine. The temp. sensor is at the back of the engine, directly above the transmission, above the coolant pipe. There will (should) be a single wire with a black plastic connector to it that slides over the sensor pin. Look for that to be hanging free i.e. disconnected.

so i took it to a auto electrician who has now informed me of some error codes that my computor has told him. i got a code 31, a code 23, a code 76 and a code 32.

I would also be looking at being certain that the correct PCM (computer) and MemCal (chip) for the S/C engine and trans. have been used.

Step one in diagnosing fault codes is to clear them, drive, and recheck. To clear them, remove the fuse labelled "EFI" in the housing just behind the battery for > 10 seconds, then recheck the codes, to confirm they are cleared, using the "How To".

Any code that recurs is a valid one.

onto my second issue, when climbing a hill my gears seem to rev out, it wont change gear, but my gear box is full of fluid and as i said before, it has all just been recently re built..

it slips and most of the time it dont want to change gear, and i know this sounds odd, but it only seems to be on hot days? it gets through 1st gear, struggles thru second (not jolting, just revs out) and struggles thru third.. but other times its fine.

=> guarantee from the wrecker or the entity that installed or rebuilt the engine/trans? Probably best to take it up with them. It could be an electrical/computer(PCM) problem too.

ok on my 3rd issue, when it first came home after rebuilding it, it had some speed, now it feels like it is struggling to even drive. sometimes it idles ruff and almost is bout to staul but thankfully it doesn't.

And now for some reason i am chewing alot of petrol? i am getting about 120 k's outta a full tank and this car is now sending me broke.

Solving the fault code problems will likely fix those.

The MAT sensor is plugged into the LHS top of the air filter box at the passenger front of the engine bay. First step would be to make sure that it is actually connected.

Theft deterrent missing happens quite often, usually due to the key head not making perfect contact at the terminals around the ignition key barrel. If the car starts OK, don't worry about it.

The airflow sensor code means that the airflow sensor signal hasn't been received by the PCM (engine control computer). Also check that item has been plugged in. It is in the air duct between the air box and the engine under the bonnet; alloy about the size of a coffee mug, give or take, with an electrical connector on the side of it. The ducting also has to be secure i.e. no air leaks between it and the engine. If it's not something simple like that, back to whoever installed the engine I think (to check the wiring).

ok onto my last issue, when i brake it makes a like a hollow sound, like my brakes are wet, but they arnt? and it only seems to sound more from the passenger side again, but i have brand new disks and brakes...
can anybody help out there please... thankyou for reading this

Some pad materials are inherently noisy. If you are using cross drilled or slotted discs, they are also noisy.

It's also possible that the pads haven't been bedded in properly. Find a nice quiet road in an industrial estate or rural road somewhere and run a series of 6-8 brake applications, about 3/4 of a full panic stop from 80km/h-10km/h with a minute or so between each application.

Finish with a gentle roll @ ~10-20km/h for a minute or two without brake application to allow the brakes to cool.

Do not stop with your foot on the brakes at any time until the brakes are cool again or you will imprint hot pad material onto a single spot on the discs and (eventually) get a nasty vibration you will feel through the brake pedal.

(You should get a smell as some of the binding material - glue - is vaporised out of the pads. This is what you are trying to achieve, without overheating the brakes.)

It's possibly a worn wheel bearing but you would usually get that without brake application.

[mz-v6-2c]

Unfortunately, the air bag light could be a due to a number of things. If you don't mind getting dirty and perhaps removing a few pieces of trim, one simple check is to make sure that all the air bag connectors are connected () properly. The various airbag components are under the steering column, the dash and under the driver's seat. Basically, anything with a bright safety yellow wiring harness or connector is associated with the airbag.

You should also check that the fuses for the airbag are not blown. The fuses should be labelled and behind the cover under the steering column.

It is also possible to extract fault codes for the airbag system using a diagnostic tool = dealer and $$$.



Check the fuses and relay for the horn, under the bonnet and labelled on the cover over them (swap the relay with another one and recheck the horn). Also check the horn is actually plugged in - the horn(s) is (are) behind the front bumper bar cover on the driver's side - two metal discs(ish) items on Calais.

One other thing: has the steering wheel been removed and replaced? There is an electrical connection between the steering wheel and the wiring for the horn, and another for the airbag.



This could be the gauge itself or a wiring connection. As the engine has been removed and replaced recently, most likely it is the connection at the engine. The temp. sensor is at the back of the engine, directly above the transmission, above the coolant pipe. There will (should) be a single wire with a black plastic connector to it that slides over the sensor pin. Look for that to be hanging free i.e. disconnected.



I would also be looking at being certain that the correct PCM (computer) and MemCal (chip) for the S/C engine and trans. have been used.

Step one in diagnosing fault codes is to clear them, drive, and recheck. To clear them, remove the fuse labelled "EFI" in the housing just behind the battery for > 10 seconds, then recheck the codes, to confirm they are cleared, using the "How To".

Any code that recurs is a valid one.



=> guarantee from the wrecker or the entity that installed or rebuilt the engine/trans? Probably best to take it up with them. It could be an electrical/computer(PCM) problem too.



Solving the fault code problems will likely fix those.

The MAT sensor is plugged into the LHS top of the air filter box at the passenger front of the engine bay. First step would be to make sure that it is actually connected.

Theft deterrent missing happens quite often, usually due to the key head not making perfect contact at the terminals around the ignition key barrel. If the car starts OK, don't worry about it.

The airflow sensor code means that the airflow sensor signal hasn't been received by the PCM (engine control computer). Also check that item has been plugged in. It is in the air duct between the air box and the engine under the bonnet; alloy about the size of a coffee mug, give or take, with an electrical connector on the side of it. The ducting also has to be secure i.e. no air leaks between it and the engine. If it's not something simple like that, back to whoever installed the engine I think (to check the wiring).



Some pad materials are inherently noisy. If you are using cross drilled or slotted discs, they are also noisy.

It's also possible that the pads haven't been bedded in properly. Find a nice quiet road in an industrial estate or rural road somewhere and run a series of 6-8 brake applications, about 3/4 of a full panic stop from 80km/h-10km/h with a minute or so between each application.

Finish with a gentle roll @ ~10-20km/h for a minute or two without brake application to allow the brakes to cool.

Do not stop with your foot on the brakes at any time until the brakes are cool again or you will imprint hot pad material onto a single spot on the discs and (eventually) get a nasty vibration you will feel through the brake pedal.

(You should get a smell as some of the binding material - glue - is vaporised out of the pads. This is what you are trying to achieve, without overheating the brakes.)

It's possibly a worn wheel bearing but you would usually get that without brake application.

ok being a chick hhaa yes i do like to get my hands dirty, and would love to be a mechanic anyday, i love my cars andi love getting my hands dirty,with the air bag and horn/ temp gauge sorry that issue has been fixed now, it was my steering spring and some lose wiring behind mmy dash with temp gauge..
now onto my fuses they all been checked and all the ones under bonnet are fine as well, as to the worn bearing i am kind of thinking it is that to, but i didnt want to say that as bbeing a chick i didnt want to make a fool out of my self lol. with the brake issue the funny thing bout it is this hollow sound is marking my left passenger disc, i dont understand why cause i just bought them brand new as well my vt slotterd rotahs, they were mechanicly installed so i am hoping that i have not been beaten around da bush now with my current mechanic cause as it is, this car has already cost me a court case and a burnt pocket... the brakes funny enough are perfect, in all honesty my car pulls up like a dream, i tested it going on a straight road and going around 40/30 k'sand coming to an almost stop it start to make a weird kind of hollow sound... what i did notice tonight when i was trying you stats tht when i slammed the brakes at a high sppeed and slowly put them on at a high speed tht cause i am in need of a wheel aliignment if the steering pullls to the right a lill the hollow sound comes thru, how ever if i keep my hands real firm and steering on the straight it dosnt do it at all.. now this is really weird and i would not of noticed this unless i never tried all these things tonight as to what it just maybe...
so i am thinking that a bearing is only 5 10 bucks i might give that a shot first...
as to my code errors, i paid my auto electrician to reset my putor and unfortunitly these errors still come up...
ok now with that MAT sensor for flow are you talking bout my cold air intake? is there some kind of wiring here, cause i have looked around to see if i have any lost connections under there but cant seem to see any what so ever, it all looks like it is plugged in, however tomorow i will give it another shot tho
ok now with the air flow, i am wondering which one that is. lol sorry cause i thought i only had one air intake? and tht was my cold air box, or is that all connected around same area?
thanktoy heaps for your time andhelp it is gratly appriciated...

[mz-v6-2c]

sorry i forgot to add, that this computor and wiring did come with this motor i now have dropped in it, ?and the wiring harnis and putor was all installed on the day it got changed over, with the dash etc? will that make any kind of difference or, so it should be working off my engine for the right motor yeh?

[mz-v6-2c]

Solving the fault code problems will likely fix those.

The MAT sensor is plugged into the LHS top of the air filter box at the passenger front of the engine bay. First step would be to make sure that it is actually connected.

Theft deterrent missing happens quite often, usually due to the key head not making perfect contact at the terminals around the ignition key barrel. If the car starts OK, don't worry about it.

The airflow sensor code means that the airflow sensor signal hasn't been received by the PCM (engine control computer). Also check that item has been plugged in. It is in the air duct between the air box and the engine under the bonnet; alloy about the size of a coffee mug, give or take, with an electrical connector on the side of it. The ducting also has to be secure i.e. no air leaks between it and the engine. If it's not something simple like that, back to whoever installed the engine I think (to check the wir

ok i checked all plugs , wires, and almost did my head in, they are all conected, and all look ok, but i could be worng i guess but in my opinion they all look fine.. one thing i am noticeing now is one time i drive its a dream, the next time i drive, it is a realllllllllllllll slug, it has a really bad flat spot, and i am chewing petrol like there is no tomorow i am getting around 140 to 160 k's from a complete full tank... but if the car drives ok, it dosnt seem to chew the petrol or as much? so does this mean tht my actual sensors are gone or