ok, had the IAC motor, new injectors, different CAS and de carb run through the engine to try and fix the problem. starting the car from cold will generally go first time. drive it around for a while then go back to it after doing something it will take more turns to go and sometimes wont go for a while. anyone had the same problem? is it fuel or ignition system playing up?
*oh its a wagon so ive heard they have issues when starting on angles etc*
Does it only do it when the car is parked on an angle?Maybe try getting the fuel system pressure tested.
no, just after getting it to operating temp then leaving it for a little while, like if i was to go and shop or do something then come back to it, it can take a few more turns than normal to start.
Check for any error codes.It will flash code 12 three times,then any error codes that may be set.Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)Also if the fuel pump relay is stuffed,it will take longer to start because the fuel pump then gets its power from the oil pressure switch,which wont power the fuel pump until the oil pressure is up from cranking the engine and the oil light is out.
checked error codes. nothing there, just a big fat 12. so maybe changing the oil pressure switch may help?
No, not the oil pressure switch,the fuel pump relay under the bonnet near the fuses etc.Just try swapping it over with another one.Then see what happens.
Last edited by Brett_jjj; 22-12-2009 at 02:18 PM.
Did you let the error code test go through more than 3 times past the code 12?
Just fixed my car with same problem today(5 days nutting it out)Finally fixed it with only buying what it needed !! .. check fuel pump & check valve ...1st check if you have a noise(3 sec's) from fuel tank when you turn acc's on...if you do great!! but if you want to be sure...take (fuel-in) hose off were it meets the fuel rail(under bonnet) get a container to catch fuel(if) it comes out(hope so for your sake)...then turn on acc's for half a sec...you should find IF fuel pump is working you WILL have petrol in container...OK,If you have pump working check(check valve) by makeing sure you inline fuel hose(makeing sure your hose is back on fuel rail)has presure in it by checking that when you turn off your acc's the presure remains.So if all is ok...ITS SPARK!!! not PETROL!! less its your fuel presure regulator...
Check the vacume hose (thin hose to the left if looking under bonnet) Now pull that off n have a smell n sniff,or a suck... if there is no petrol in there you should be rite!!!
Pull a spark plugg out..check for spark!! then maybe take nother out if you have spark in one check another!! IF YOU HAVE SPARK...Id be thinking streight up coil pack moduel 99.9% there YO!! NOW NOTE: If you are fortunate to get a second hand moduel(on its own) be sure to put heat greese inbetween the coil packs n the moduel or you will fry it n find the same problem will come back(n waist $70 buckx like I did ..
You will find that the 4 most common parts for the eco tech be ... spark plugs,leads,Moduels,Harmonic balancers!!
If Your CSA goes it will just go!! not be intermittant(87% of the time).... I steer my head to the Moduel that your coil packs sitt on...
Hope this helps champ ... Have fun!!!
yeh sat there waiting for other codes to come out. just code 12 up to ten times. i swapped the fuses around and it made a difference but i guess doing the coil pack would make it better anyway- havent done that yet. and the leads, havent changed leads since getting the car.
I had a code 12 also threw the whole 5 days narrowing it down :/ ... If it is your spark & NOT fuel ... Id be more looking at you module m8,because when it does run... It runs sweet,yea? No harm in doing the leads tho... If you decide to go with me on this... may be easier to get the whole lot(moduel + coil packs) just for you dont have a chance of frying moduel,But most of the time wreckers just sell moduel + coil as 1 whole unit!! .... any wayz do let me know how you get on M8, & sorry bout my poor spelling![]()