really need ya help???
ok here's my problem guys....... I was driving down to Goulburn from Brisbane the other day but about 100km out of Newcastle my car stalled while sitting on 110km anyway it was about 42 degrees and wouldnt start. I though it could be the CAS so i let it sit for afew mins and started it back up but then 2km down the road it stalls again so i get out and pour water on the CAS and start up but before i could pull out back on to the freeway it stalled again. So i let it sit again and also poured water on the CAS again and started it up drove about 2km and stalled, repeated what i had done before and got about 15km this time then it stalled again i did a diagnostic and it only came up with 12 ( nothing wrong) anyway after stalling another 5 or 6 times i finally found a mechanic that would look at it but he didnt know what it was he said it could be afew things but he was too busy and was shutting for 2 weeks that arvo so off i went and it stalled again and it clicked could it be the fuel pump???? i bashed the shit out of the tank and it started up and i didnt have the problem again since. But now my problem is i have to take the missus and kids back with me and im worried about it doing it again with the kids in the car my youngest is only 3 weeks old, What would you sasy it could be CAS, fuel pump, fuel filter, something else???
It will flash code 12 three times before any other codes are displayed.Originally Posted by mynameisearl
yep i know that it flashed 12 3 times then paused and started repeating 12 again ive only just had the CAS done to and new balancer done too
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It's a process of elimination unfortunately, and you've got to go with the odds....which favour the fuel pump seeing as you've changed the CAS already. Even though a bad CAS may not throw a code, after a dozen or so fails you would have to reckon that at least a 46 to 48 would show up....which is why the FP may be the favourite. It's also possible the ignition/engine relay or the FP one is playing up...they don't always like heat.
So if you have the time, I'd change the FP, FP filter and the relays mentioned above. The relays you can possibly swap with one from other positions (or under the steering wheel). These things always happen at the worst times!!!
Mate that sounds like CAS. Happened to me last month with those symptoms. Not saying it definitely is, but if i were you i'd grab one from a wrecker and try it.
Just fixed my car with same problem today(5 days nutting it out)Finally fixed it with only buying what it needed !! .. check fuel pump & check valve ...1st check if you have a noise(3 sec's) from fuel tank when you turn acc's on...if you do great!! but if you want to be sure...take (fuel-in) hose off were it meets the fuel rail(under bonnet) get a container to catch fuel(if) it comes out(hope so for your sake)...then turn on acc's for half a sec...you should find IF fuel pump is working you WILL have petrol in container...OK,If you have pump working check(check valve) by makeing sure you inline fuel hose(makeing sure your hose is back on fuel rail)has presure in it by checking that when you turn off your acc's the presure remains.So if all is ok...ITS SPARK!!! not PETROL!! less its your fuel presure regulator...
Check the vacume hose (thin hose to the left if looking under bonnet) Now pull that off n have a smell n sniff,or a suck... if there is no petrol in there you should be rite!!!
Pull a spark plugg out..check for spark!! then maybe take nother out if you have spark in one check another!! IF YOU HAVE SPARK...Id be thinking streight up coil pack moduel 99.9% there YO!! NOW NOTE: If you are fortunate to get a second hand moduel(on its own) be sure to put heat greese inbetween the coil packs n the moduel or you will fry it n find the same problem will come back(n waist $70 buckx like I did..
You will find that the 4 most common parts for the eco tech be ... spark plugs,leads,Moduels,Harmonic balancers!!
If Your CSA goes it will just go!! not be intermittant(87% of the time).... I steer my head to the Moduel that your coil packs sitt on...
Hope this helps champ ... Have fun!!!
ok i have been driving around for over a week down here and not a problem at all, so i was just hoping it might have been a bad batch of fuel then today i was just putting along a country rd and only doing about 30kph round a corner and noticed no power steering the f_cker had stalled again pulled over and tried to start it crank crank crankcrank nothing........walked back up the road filled a bottle with water out of a puddle poured it on the CAS and she started up got the rest of the 30km home no probs. Ran another diagnostic and again came up (12) clear?????? shouldnt something come up if its stalling? anyway rang holden down here and they want $370.00 to replace the CAS i only had it replaced just over a month ago but it would register an error code (47) back then but nothing now. Both times ive had stalling probs its been on 1/4 of a tank or just under
check your fuel return line in the tank then, and $370 to do the CAS is a rip off... it takes about 10 mins to change and they are only around $50 for a new sensor. Get a new one and fit it your self, If pouring water over your current one fixed the problem i would say its defo got a fault.
ok here's an update on how things have been going, I didnt have another problem with the car stalling since the 29th of last month so nearly a month and that includes driving home to Qld from Goulburn
(1100km's). I have had 3 mechanics look at the car since but since it hasn't be stalling they say nothing seems to be wrong? Then today with the missus and kids in the car it stalled at the lights. Crank crank crank .......nothing got abused by everyone going past as i tried to get it of the road. i poured 2ltrs of water on the CAS and nothing , bashed the fuel tank nothing, battery terminals were very very loose fixed them still nothing waited awhile and started no probs 2km down the rd going down hill luckily (no pushing) stalls again. Crank crank crank nothing, straight across the rd was an ultra tune got the guy to come have a look and of course car cranks over 1st go! he said doesnt seem to be anything wrong and no codes logged? he said it might have just been the battery terminals being loose before an the computer could have dropped under 10 amps? so off i go 1km down the rd and stalls again. wifes freakin out because a quick trip to caloundra (50km) has taken 4hrs and only have one bottle left for the baby. left the car for an hour hopped in started straight away and got home no probs, WTF is wrong with it i keep getting told it wouldn't be the CAS and the ultra tune guy said it wouldn't be the fuel pump cos it wouldnt crank if it was? my VT is sitting here unrego'd is there anything i can swap from it to try?
I'd be getting the fuel pressure coming out of the pump checked not just the fact it is pumping and changing the fuel filter as well. Do you know how old the pump is, how many K's it has done?
When it stalls and you try to start it do you hear the fuel pump for a short while when you turn the ignition on? Make up a piece of wire about 10 cm long with a male spade connector on each end and next time it stalls take out the fuel pump relay and bridge the socket pins that go to the relay's contacts this will put 12 volts to the fuel pump and it should and stay on without the engine running. If you don't hear it check for 12 volts at the connector under the car infront of the tank if there's 12 volts and the pump is ont running tap the tank and if it starts then get a new fuel pump and filter. Try to go genuine, the last one I got was genuine but DELPHI branded and it cost me about $100 with a gasket. I think they are better than the cheaper ones around.
The CAS you had fitted should be under warranty. If the fuel pump is fine and if the CAS is a genuine part take it back to a dealership they may replace it under the new part warranty.
Apart from that you could try coil, the DFI module.....
That ultra tune guy is full of shit it will sill crank over if the fuel pump is gone (sounds like it to me) the only times it won't crank over is when either the battery is too low to get the engine to crank or if the starter motor is dead(this is what cranks the engine).
I'm a 3rd year apprentice mechanic and trust me when I tell you this ultra tune guys don't know shit unless its just an oil change ... they are unbelievably bad when it come to knowing and diagnosing problems ... don't get me wrong I'm sure there would be a couple of good mechanics working at ultra tunes but the vast majority are shit.
Back onto your problem it sounds like the fuel pump is ****ed to me and that not enough fuel is getting to the engine chances are that even if that pump isn't gone and it wasn't replace recently you should get it done anyway as those pumps die all the time. But it definitely sounds like a pump to me ... get them to change your fuel filter at the same time as they change your pump.
Just something small but it may help..
Your fuel pump turns on with assistance of the oil pressure via the computer and if you have no oil pressure your fuel pump will not work..
Just something else for you to think about..
So it may even be as simple as a loose wire on the oil switch..
Why is it called Alcoholics Anonymous when the first thing you do is stand up and say, 'My name is Ray, and I am an alcoholic'?
By removing the fuel pump relay and bridging the normally open contacts out on the relay base you will have bypassed the oil pressure switch contacts that hold the pump on when there is oil pressure.
Take it to a mechanic and get them to test the fuel pressure.This will indicate if the pump is stuffed or not.This test is cheap to get done.These fuel pumps are well known for causing problems when they get old.
Also forgot to add the days were it happened seemed to be very hot days the 1st time it was 42 degrees the 2nd time a month later it was about 35 degrees i dont know if this means anything
Next time it stops on you, pull a spark plug lead off the plug, crank it over and check you have spark jump. If there's no spark, pull an injector lead off and while cranking check the lead for pulse with a multimeter.
If there's no pulse undo the small (6mm?) bolt holding the long rectangular plug into the DFI/coilpack. Pull it out, then put it back in and do up the bolt. If it starts now it's probably CAS. For some reason pulling out this wiring can get it going again. An old holden technician showed me this. Granted it will stall on you again shortly, and you will need to replace your CAS.
If you're handy with the spanner i have a second hand CAS i'll lend you for trouble shooting at postage costs.
My vr does the same thing but its only when im under 1/4 tank and it just cuts out any time. no idea what causes it but to fix the problem just keep topped up on fuel
or get your fuel return line fixed!My vr does the same thing but its only when im under 1/4 tank and it just cuts out any time. no idea what causes it but to fix the problem just keep topped up on fuel
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