how to set timing vr 5l ??

[Haydz]

hey guys as the title states. ive heard bumping up the timing can give a real gain in performance.


just wondering how to do it? and any reccomendations on what to set mine too?


stock vr 5.0l
pacemaker headers
2.5 exhaust
10.5mm leads
k&n and CAI
Greenfoam memcal
Thats all for performance afaik.


cheers guys any help appreciated. also i believe there should be a how to made for this to help anyone else out. if i attempt it myself and have enough knowledge ill write one up.

[troygts]

yeh it can but u run the risk of running to lean or to rich wich is bad in the long run. if u do want to do that i sugest u go double row timing chain and advance your cam timing one tooth as this will make it more responsive on the pedal. and with that get a tune put in aswell. hope all goes well

[dirt drifter]

if its got a greenfoam memcal already i would have a chat with foamy first before winding up the timing too much.

[stocky]

if its got a greenfoam memcal then leave it at the standard 10 degrees dizzy timing

[Haydz]

i also wanna know how to check it. coz it might not be set at 10?

[VSPantha]

I haven't done this since i used to check the timing on my old HZ 253... and never done it on a EFI 5ltr. I think you need a spanner that's had the end bent at almost right angles to get it in under the distributor and you need to make sure when you tighten it back up that the dizzy doesn't move or your timing will be out. Apparently to adjust the timing you only need to rotate the dizzy a TINY bit to make a change so be careful if you attempt it... anyone who has ACTUALLY done this please elaborate on my basic instructions

Basic instructions... from my holden workshop manual...

1. Operate engine at idle speed, and allow it to reach normal operating temperature
2. Ground DLC diagnostic mode request terminal with a jumper wire and suitable terminals (in other words, put a paperclip on pins 5&6, same as if reading error codes)
CAUTION: The timing light must be suitable for use with semi-conductor type ignition systems, otherwise TRANSIENT VOLTAGE that may be produced in an unsuitable timing light could destroy the ignition timing module
3. Use a suitable timing light to check that ignition timing is 10 degrees BTDC (put timing light on ignition lead 1, connect timing light to power, point light at timing marks near harmonic balancer and the strobe effect will allow you to line up the timing on the markers)
4. If adjustment is required, loosen distributor clamp bolt and rotate distributor to achieve correct timing (10 degrees BTDC)
5. Tighten distributor clamp bolt to specified torque and re-check ignition timing (to make sure you didn't move the distributor when tightening)
6. Stop the engine and remove the jumper wire from the DLC connector

Good luck... if you do this take some pics along the way and do a how to for the rest of us

[VrWagz1]

As above hayden^^^^. Its not different to doing a regular carby car except for the step where you bridge the diagnostics plug under the driver side there.

I will say though that if you have a foam tune like me then you wont need anymore timing. You would simply be wanting to check that it is 10deg. My wagon already pings if i use 91ron in it by mistake, 95 only or above is all i can run. I can hear mine pinging on 91 when you give it a bootful next to a gaurd rail or somthing with the window down, so its not obvious to hear but it is definatly doing it and it is very bad if i was to ignore it.

[5LTRVNSS]

quick question while on the case of timeing issues ,(new too the forum so hi guys gals ..just bought the mrs a vn ss 5ltr seems timeing is out???? takes a while too start idles/chug's for a bit till ya give it a few rvs idels down ruff then voila runs /idles revs fine?>? not as resonsive as my 5ltr or my sisters vs 5ltr (which both have EXACTLY THE SAME INTERNAL WORK :P)
things i have checked changed

NEW PLUGS
NEW LEADS
NEW DIZZY CAP
NEW ROTOR BUTTON
NEW FUEL FILTER
NEW OL/OIL FILTER
CHECKED: FUEL PUMP /PUMP PRESSURE BLOCKED LINES

INJECTORS (SCREWDRIVER ON EAR TO INJECTORS PLUS UNPLUG /PLUG IN'S)
COMPUTOR ERRORS >NONE CODE 12<
need help asap as car is booked in tuesday for rwc
cheers

[VrWagz1]

have you run an injector cleaner product through it yet. Sounds to me like he injectors maybe a bit daggy. It maybe worth while getting them proffesionally sonic cleaned.

[5LTRVNSS]

No i have not try any products thru it yet , what injector cleaner would you recomend for the 5ltr's?
any idea on cost of sonic/professional cleaning...?

[VrWagz1]

sonic clean from a standard mech, is around $10-$15 per injector, and that will usually include new o-rings aswell.

As for a recommended injector cleaner, i have no preffered brands. Have a read of the bottles in the shop just to make sure you follow the directions right. Mainly just how much fuel to have in the tank. A commodore tank is 65 liters and most only stipulate diluting the bottle with around 30 liters of fuel, so half tank.

[5LTRVNSS]

Ok thanks mate ill give it a try ,btw its a 72ltr drop tank not standard , if it dnt work i have some brand new bosch injector's sitting around

[5LTRVNSS]

Well injector cleaner helps a tiny bit but did not cure , replaced ALL injectors and fuel rail with vt ss 1 runs like a dream !
thanks VrWagz1 diagnosis SPOT ON injectors where blocked 1, 3, 4, 8 virtully no flow the rest "only half lb"

[VrWagz1]

No worries, good you got it sorted. They must have been fairly munted by the sounds of it.

[5LTRVNSS]

No worries, good you got it sorted. They must have been fairly munted by the sounds of it.

Yeah thay where including inside the fuel rail's full off carbon and varnish build up (id say 45%-75%)
but know runs like a dream thanks to your input