need help with piston/conrods and endcaps
hi i recently pulled down this vr v6 3.8 motor, total rebuild for it, doing it via the book and it sait to etch the markings of your pistons with the endcaps as well as noting where the piton is in the block prior to taking them out so you can put them back in the perfect way.
now i thought it said IT ALLREADY HAD etch markings, well i was wrong, and now i can get all pistons in but the endcaps are tight, which there should be a certain amount of slack, where as this is getting caught becuase either the endcaps are not with the right conrod (each conrod has its OWN endcap, and are all about a couple millimitres difference) so is there any way i can get around this?
also there is the option of buying new pistons, but, 1. they cost a ****ing lot of money and wanna spend that money on cam and rollerrockers, 2. all these buick american engines are hand built, all the pistons are different sizes, about a millimitre or so difference, so how would we go fitting new ones?
well this is just from my sources, but i know on the bottom of the crank the endcaps of the conrods are rubbing, i do not know if this is from the end caps being on the wrong conrods or the conrods on the wrong spot of the crankshaft, thanks in advance, and sorry if this sounds SO confusing, as it really isnt, thanks again
Vs eco 3.8, extractors, 2.75" exhaust, roller rockers, cammed, bored out 20, t5 manual, rolling on king springs all way round with monroe gt shocks all way round, every door has a ding but looks can be very deceaving
From what i can gather if you havnt actually rebuilt the motor, your just doing the main bearings yeah?
Is the problem only with the old bearings or with the new?
when pulling pistons out u should always number your rods and end caps in there firing order so that they never get mixed up and u will know what piston went in each cylinder! but if u have messed up the end caps u will have to sort that out first!
yes i sat down for hours with all the end caps and conrods with a fine tooth comb trying to pair them up, the problem is with the metal bearing cap that goes inbetween the conrod and bearing on the crank shaft, which is because of the endcaps and conrods being mixed upOriginally Posted by vyjess
so how would i go buying a new set of these? i would still have the same problem wouldnt i as they are all hand built these blocks, some one please correct me if im wrong im just going off what other people have told me
Vs eco 3.8, extractors, 2.75" exhaust, roller rockers, cammed, bored out 20, t5 manual, rolling on king springs all way round with monroe gt shocks all way round, every door has a ding but looks can be very deceaving
Mate I think they are all the same.Is the motor locking up when you try to turn it once the caps are all tensioned up? There are little dimples in the conrod and cap.these must be opposite each other on the same side,and these have to be on the same side as the lug under the piston.(its a little pin looking thing underneath the piston on one side.)Theres also another dimple which has to be on the same side half way along the conrod,near the big end on one side.If you havent removed the piston from the conrod then it should all still be ok,and its just the dimple on the end cap that has to be around the right way opposite the other dimple.Mate its got all this stuff in a gregorys workshop manual.You can learn heaps from them.Well worth it.
Last edited by Brett_jjj; 12-01-2010 at 02:54 PM.
i was reading out of some manual, but read wrong, yea the dimples are oposite each other, yes they are tightining when turning the crank over, only 2 of them, now the pin you are talking about, is this on the conrod or the actual piston?
Vs eco 3.8, extractors, 2.75" exhaust, roller rockers, cammed, bored out 20, t5 manual, rolling on king springs all way round with monroe gt shocks all way round, every door has a ding but looks can be very deceaving
Its on the piston,on the bottom, cast into the piston.It looks like a lump in the casting on one side.(its not an actual pin,just looks a bit like it.)I forgot to mention that same lug/lump/pin looking thing has to face the front of the engine as well.
Last edited by Brett_jjj; 12-01-2010 at 04:33 PM.
yea i know which way faces front of engine because the top of the pistons has arrows on it
Vs eco 3.8, extractors, 2.75" exhaust, roller rockers, cammed, bored out 20, t5 manual, rolling on king springs all way round with monroe gt shocks all way round, every door has a ding but looks can be very deceaving
on holiday
if youve messed up the caps theres no way to get them right without guessing take them to an engine builder get them shut and reground round so they match perfect or you will have issues wouldnt cost to much for them to set them up and grind them.each rod and cap is machined when they are bolted together hence why you need to keep the correct caps on the correct rods
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
yes i found this one out the hard way, found cheapest place in nsw and victoria, its a place called port city engines, they said $177.10 and that is all matched up and reground and what avue, so im going to go with that, plus postage but oh well, so roughly $230 once i pay for postage as well for a 5 minute mix up haha
oh well atleast i will know for next time
Vs eco 3.8, extractors, 2.75" exhaust, roller rockers, cammed, bored out 20, t5 manual, rolling on king springs all way round with monroe gt shocks all way round, every door has a ding but looks can be very deceaving
on holiday
having them all nice and round is allways good anyway when i build my turbo engine for more boost it will be getting the rods shut and reground if i dont go forgies so its not a waste of money really
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
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