URGENT HELP My VS V8 5L manual just stopped - no spark

[tyremandan]

Engine is out of an SS sedan but has been installed in my S ute. Started fine, drove 0.5 kms down the road and engine just cut out. Definetly electrical as there is no spark from the plugs. About 2 weeks ago the same thing happened except after waiting 2 mins it fired up again. Sadly this time I needed a tow. All fuses seem fine, everything looks connected.........Can anyone help me out???

[IvanTheTerrible]

Do you have a pulse on the injectors?
Check for power and trigger on the coil.

[VrWagz1]

You really need to work your way through the system and find which bit is letting you down. If its definatly spark, then you need to check that out. Also check its not just your imobiliser or your key too. Some of it will be trial and error, like swapping out the dizzy cap, dizzy itself, coil and the dfi module to see if any of them make it go away. If you dont have access to a mates car to swap things about then i would try your best o do some testing on those items to see which one is letting you down. Of course it could be a million little things like a hot joint, bad pin connector, broken wire too. So jst start at where you can prove the cct to and go from there.

[PRAVX II S]

Check for pulse from the ignition moudule to the ignition coil.
It should be a brown/red wire and that wire will be a negative pulse to the ignition coil. Check with a test light.
Or can be the immobilizer.

[Trugg]

had same problem with my old 5ltr vr ss ended up being a sensor in the dizzy

[tyremandan]

Seems like it might be the coil or the dizzy. Got it started again momentarily but cuts out when u feed it to it. Re-started several times. left it for an hour. wont start again now. Going to replace coil and check dizzy on tues. Sound like that could be itz???? l;et me know. thanks for your help guys

[odysseyesm]

When it first started to happen did the cutouts gradually get worse?
I had a similar thing happen over the space of two days. Started to miss and cut-out getting to the point where it wouldn't start until it cooled down. Then wouldn't start at all.
Turned out to be the Ignition module on the L/H strut tower - about the size of a smoke packet with fins on it and a silver capacitor in the middle.
Got a new one (exchange) for $155 and fitted it - no more problems.
Apparently the connector plug on the circuit board internals cracks and makes intermittant contact gradually getting worse. Grab the connector plug and see if it moves up & down - don't yank it. If it moves that may be your problem.

[tyremandan]

Problem Fixed, Just bought the car recently so wasnt sure what parts were ok. Problem was loose distributor cap but ended up buying new coil, plugs, leads and fuel filter. Good idea as now it runs even smoother than when I first bought it. Thank you for all your comments

[Pos]

G'day all, Tyremandan, good to hear your sorted. I have A VR ute & I had issues similar to yours. I've now learnt to check the coil first, particularly if it's the original or old. The plastic shell cops all the heat off the engine mounted off the back & they get hairline type cracks in them. Then moisture can get in causing intermittant stalling then like me you wash the engine down after thermostat change & the bugger won't go at all. Make you move the coil mounting spot too. I put mine just to the drivers side of the dizzy on the fire wall just bellow bonnet seal. The original coil lead still fits then.