Worst cold running car around.

[Wombles]

Well earlier, after finishing work, got in my car to check how bad the revving is.
It starts to sound like it's missing. It never use to do this.
It used to be a lag and it sounding like it's gonna stall then revs.
Just gotta get some ideas what this could be.
Ran the error codes test a while ago and nothing.
Might try again tomorrow.
It also takes a while to get from reverse into drive.
Which is also getting worse.

[nemesis_adrasteia]

check all th basic stuff first man, make sure all your leads are on tight, to coils and plugs check idle air control?

does it run propely at higher revs?

[Wombles]

When it's cold it runs like shit on a stick. Then warms up and goes fine. No spluttering or complaints from the engine.
But when cold and revving in park it sounds like it's missing, splutters, sounds like absolute shit.
How would you check the IAC valve?

[Wombles]

Guys, I need help here. I really wonna get this problem sorted.

[hako]

Possibly it's your coolant temp sensor - the one that tells the ECU if the engine is cold/hot....it's like having a choke in an older car and when the engine is cold it needs extra fuel.
If yours is not working correctly, it may be telling the ECU that the engine is hot and needs a lean mixture when, in fact, it's cold and needs a rich mixture. This will cause missing.hesitation etc when cold.
This sensor is the one under the thermostat that has 2 wires to it. The other sensor tells the temp gauge what to indicate.

[hoots]

lots of similar threads to this, have you checked them?

[Wombles]

Yea, there not really similar to what mine is.
I think I might buy a multimeter to check the Coolant Temp Sensor.

[danja]

The IAC is a black motor/solenoid under the throttle body, it moves in and out to let air in at idle. They gummed up with carbon deposits and move slowly causing the car to nearly stall at idle till they open up, then they rev up again. Two screws IIRC, then spray with carby cleaner, let air out well.

Disclaimer: Some people say carby cleaner is bad for them and kills them, personally I've done it several times with no ill effects, but your mileage may vary.

[LeaThaL]

it could also be something really simple like a fouled spark plug, my 1jz use to run crap till hot, sure enought i checked the plugs and one was closed (prob from "test drives" ) so i re-gapped it and sure enough it ran sweet as pie once again

[Wombles]

Well, the spark plugs were brand new about 6,000 k ago so maybe it's not that. Cleaned out the IAC a while ago but Hakhawk (Troy) said to test it. The manual says how to test it supposibly so I might try that.
Im also gonna test the Coolant Temperature Sensor when I have a multimeter.
So a bit of work to do I guess and a bit of money to spend. :S

[LeaThaL]

my spark plugs above arent even 1km old a few hours of idle tho but not much abuse, sometimes they can just have a flaw and when the heat gets to it or it pre detonates, it can bump the gap just the smallest amount

just curious, if its just been started and its cold, what does it do when you just hold the foot down about half way? will it stutter and then come clean or does it miss and pop if held at like 3000rpm?

[Wombles]

Havent tryed that actually. Ive just been tapping the accelorator and it does all the spluttering.

[The1]

what oil you running? how many k's on the engine?

[Wombles]

Running Penrite oil. Think it's 15W - 50.
It's got 220,2XX

[The1]

id agree with the other guys, Clean your IAC

[Wombles]

I have recently cleaned it, went by the book about having it at a certain length when putting it back in then yea. Dunno if it needs replacing though. I'll have to read up the manual and see how to test it.

[The1]

did you clean the hole that it sits in as well? just cleaning the sensor wont do much, it's a very small hole that is quite long and blocks up. You will need to remove the air intake pipe and recomended take the top of the pelenium off as well to make it easier, spray plenty of carby cleaner in the hole to clean it out.

Ive done this a few times to mine it always fixes the cold start issue. Only other cold start issue for me was injectors leaking.

[Wombles]

Well, I might try removing the throttle body and clean it porperly.
But yes, I have cleaned throttle body and the little hole the IAC lives in.

[Wombles]

Okay, monday I think i'll get a multimeter from AutObarn and check the IAC valve first. If thats ok i'll test the CTS for problems. Hmm. This is gonna be fun when I get around to it... I suspect burns and such happening.

[Wombles]

my spark plugs above arent even 1km old a few hours of idle tho but not much abuse, sometimes they can just have a flaw and when the heat gets to it or it pre detonates, it can bump the gap just the smallest amount

just curious, if its just been started and its cold, what does it do when you just hold the foot down about half way? will it stutter and then come clean or does it miss and pop if held at like 3000rpm?

Ran the error codes test, nothing, just 12.
Then tryed to get it to 3,000RPM, it stalled, started it again and this time didnt stall when going up to 3,000RPM, it was fine going to that. It only splutters and shit when I hit the accelorator for a split second.

[hako]

Coolant Temp Sensor sounds the go....running lean when cold.

[Wombles]

Im gonna test it when I purchase the multimetere!
It says that the Coolant Temp sensor when throw a code.
Thats what I think from the manual.
If it's none of the sensors, I may need to renew my ECU... Supposibly says that in the manual.

[Wombles]

Ok... Another idea thrown at me by the guys at AutObarn.
Could it be the Crank Angle Sensor?

[LeaThaL]

i cant say 100% so it may be, but i cant see how it could personally, and as for autobahn, as much as i loooove their prices on commodore parts, i went in there and said my engine shakes on idle as i think the mount is torn and he said crank angle sensor, they just seem to love that part

but as i said i dont know much about how commodore ecus work so there is a chance it is.

[nugatory]

It's probably one of the coil packs going faulty. mine started doing this after I did a motor swap and I replaced the spark plugs and it ran real good once then when I started it next time, the problem was back. I replaced the entire DFI Module (Ignition Module) and coil packs from my original motor because they were newer and it fixed the problem entirely.

Yours may not be this serious though as I'm pretty sure my problem was just a faulty coil but I was lazy and also wanted my newer igition coil back on the motor.