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Thread: Just picked up a SS few problems to fix

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    Default Just picked up a SS few problems to fix

    Just picked this up yesterday VS SS bt1





    Pretty tidy inside and out, The guy i got it off was a top bloke and seemed very honest.

    Its got a couple of small faults that im on with fixing now before rwc on friday, got a strange one tho that i was wondering if anyone had any ideas about.

    If i open the car with the remote key, the passenger side front door and drivers side rear door unlock and the other 2 stay locked, if i use the key in the door lock all 4 locks unlock.

    If i lock the car with the remote the passenger side front door and drivers side rear door lock, if i lock the car with the key in the lock all doors apart from the passenger side rear door lock.

    Why would the one rear door remain unlocked when i use the key in the lock and how come if i use the remote the drivers wont unlock..?!?!

    Also has a leaky trans sump gasket which im changing today.

    Other than that the car is pretty much perfect, drives really nice and sounds awesome.
    Last edited by westbad; 10-02-2010 at 10:33 AM.

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    Also the oil light flickers on and off at idle, when driving its off totally. It has plenty of oil in it so hopefully this will be a faulty oil pressure switch and not something else..! Will be giving it a full service soon.
    Last edited by westbad; 11-02-2010 at 12:05 PM.

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    not sure on problem but mines doing the same every now and then, with the key some doors lock some dont then sum unlock some dont then there fine, im thinking the mecenisms are just getting stuck and need some lube??

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    vr94ss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by westbad View Post
    Also the oil light flickers on and off at idle, when driving its off totally. It has plenty of oil in it so could this be a faulty oil pressure switch?? or something else..?? Will be giving it a full service later today.
    Oil pressure switch is cheap so I'd change that first as it probably the most likely culprit. Next cheapest and likely would be the pump/bypass valve. If it is not those it gets deeper, like blocked pickup screen in the sump and worst of all it could be really worn bearings.

    You could ask your mechanic to screw in his oil pressure gauge and check what the pressure actually is.

    How many Kms has it done, it certainly looks neat.

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    its done just over 200,000kms,
    Ill check the oil pressure after i service it.
    It drives like a new car really smooth and responsive.

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    those side skirts are wrong. theyre VN style, and look like copies since theyre one piece

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
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    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




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    Quote Originally Posted by westbad View Post
    Just picked this up yesterday VS SS bt1





    Pretty tidy inside and out, The guy i got it off was a top bloke and seemed very honest.

    Its got a couple of small faults that im on with fixing now before rwc on friday, got a strange one tho that i was wondering if anyone had any ideas about.

    If i open the car with the remote key, the passenger side front door and drivers side rear door unlock and the other 2 stay locked, if i use the key in the door lock all 4 locks unlock.

    If i lock the car with the remote the passenger side front door and drivers side rear door lock, if i lock the car with the key in the lock all doors apart from the passenger side rear door lock.

    Why would the one rear door remain unlocked when i use the key in the lock and how come if i use the remote the drivers wont unlock..?!?!

    Also has a leaky trans sump gasket which im changing today.

    Other than that the car is pretty much perfect, drives really nice and sounds awesome.
    They all are when they try to sell you something. Unfortunantly most people will not tell you what is wrong with the car. Wait till 6 months has passed then tell us how you feel about him.
    Only saying this cause I have been bitten before and he seemed like one of the most honest guys out there. Now i wish i knew where the ass lived lol.

    But from looks it seems pretty neat.
    INNAWE (in awe)

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    2. awe - a feeling of profound respect for someone or something; "the fear of God"; "the Chinese reverence for the dead"; "the French treat food with gentle reverence"; "his respect for the law bordered on veneration"

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    ^^^agree with innawe,my old vq,the bloke seemed pretty decent,said he never drove it hard,seemed ok when i checked it over,turns out he was cleaning the oil leakes off the engine and gearbox etc,also must have riped a big skid in it on his way home when i was going to pick it up as a bout a week later i found rubber up in guard and the gearbox was sliping slightly which it wasnt doing when i test drove it.it was funny because when i seen him at a later date,he told me he never had a problem,never leaked,never sliped,was a great car
    not having a go or saying the bloke you brought it off is dodgey but just wait a few weeks before praising him lol
    car seems pretty good though,i take it being a bt1 its had the bodykit fitted later?

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    i had a guy that was saying the car ran great but the only small problem was that there was black smoke coming form the exhaust they will say anything to sell a car

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    Looks a top vehicle....wish mine was a SS.
    Re the bloke being honest....you've got to trust people! Not many people will try and rip you off as most of us are honest (ain't we?).
    When I sell a car (maybe once a year), I put a price on...last one was $5900 (HiAce Commuter). First looker turned up with his dad and the first thing I showed them were faults and things that they really should be inspecting and being totally honest...clean green coolant, clean battery posts and where to look for those hiddens faults. Also gave them my lowest price ($5700) without them asking. They appreciated the apparent honesty and bought the car no problems. I sell whatever I have that way and always sell to the first looker.
    Same with buying - look for a honest seller, go by your gut-feeling as it is seldom wrong. Try to be friendly but don't act (if you get what I mean).
    The other thing is that generally you get what you paid for - expect faults if you pay low.
    Sorry for the ramble.

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    i understand what your saying, but this guy owns and runs a mechanic shop, i picked it up from his business, when i got there he left me and a friend to look over the car from top to bottom for half hour, and then he told us about the faults we had noticed with out even asking him about them.

    Obviously you take a chance every time you buy a 2nd hand car but so far im more than happy.

    Just hope it passes the roadworthy on friday!

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    Your door lock issue may be BCM related. The BCM may be confused telling the car which doors to lock and unlock. It's not a sticking lock actuator issue. 1 press of the button should only open the drivers door.

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    1 press of the button should only open the drivers door.
    The central locking on the VS can be set to either one or two presses of the remote button to open all doors.
    Last edited by Brett_jjj; 10-02-2010 at 06:05 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett_jjj View Post
    The central locking can be set to either one or two presses of the remote button to open all doors.
    How would one do that? Mine opens all doors. I'm fine with that as I usually lock and unlock with the key(deadlock) but it'd be handy to know how to go about changing it.

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    First mod should be getting stock sideskirts, those VN style look crap on anything other than a VN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett_jjj View Post
    The central locking on the VS can be set to either one or two presses of the remote button to open all doors.
    That's a given but westbad has 2 diagonally opposing locks working. The issue is not a programming one IMO, but I have been known to be wrong before.

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    hako is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett_jjj View Post
    The central locking on the VS can be set to either one or two presses of the remote button to open all doors.
    You need to see a dealer to have this done according to the owners handbook....and they charge like wounded bulls in this town.
    Your Tech1 can do it I think.....I am very jealous.

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    Yeah,the Tech 1 can do it.I remember reading somewhere that if theres problems with the central locking, the vehicle blinkers will flash a certain number of times when the lock/unlock button on the remote is pressed to show theres a problem somewhere with the locking system.It may have been on a different model,I cant remember.Has anyone else heard about this?When I first got my car the back door locks didnt work,it turned out that the electrical plugs in the rear doors had come unplugged,Ive read on here about other people having the same problem with the plugs inside the doors coming apart.It might be worth checking out.
    Last edited by Brett_jjj; 10-02-2010 at 07:13 PM.

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    update on the locking problem.. Got the passenger side rear door locking and unlocking with the key, wd40 worked a treat must just of been sticking.

    But i still have the problem with the drivers door and passenger rear not unlocking with the remote.

    All 4 doors now lock and unlock with the key.

    And the side skirts are staying where they are

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    If they all unlock/lock with the key then it wont be the wiring or plugs in the doors.Mine wouldnt open unless they were pulled up manually.It might be a fault with the BCM.You need a scantool to read/clear any errors logged in the BCM.

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    Is there any way to reset the BCM manually? with out a scantool?

    The car has been sat in a garage for the last year unregistered and doing nothing. The guy had a few nice cars there in his garage that he owns! VT R8 race car, vk brock director, VS clubby and a nice new shiny VE SS ute sat outside!!

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    Im not sure if disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes will do it or not.It might be worth a try.

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    I once had a 253 with the oil light on at idle problem, It eventually developed a knock as the bearings wore out. The cause was the oil pump was worn out, the gears are hard (steel?) and the body was made of alloy, all the rubbish in the oil passes between the gears and the body and had worn grooves in it. An advantage is that the pump bolts on externally and is not overly difficult to change.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 9C1pack View Post
    I once had a 253 with the oil light on at idle problem, It eventually developed a knock as the bearings wore out. The cause was the oil pump was worn out, the gears are hard (steel?) and the body was made of alloy, all the rubbish in the oil passes between the gears and the body and had worn grooves in it. An advantage is that the pump bolts on externally and is not overly difficult to change.
    Wrong thread?
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    Quote Originally Posted by STEALTHY™ View Post
    Wrong thread?
    not necessarily, its about the oil light flickering at idle and his experience. EVERYONE assumes that it HAS to be the sender which is BS. If i ever saw my oil light flickering it would be at a mechanics shop the next day getting the oil PSI checked if i dont already have a gauge. The oil light isnt to be taken lightly, its a proper warning that if not checked properly then colossal damage will be on the way and just "replacing the sensor" doesnt give any piece of mind as to whats really going on in the engine.

    Get the psi checked properly, if then its good get the sender replaced and that should be sorted
    Quote Originally Posted by <TVR-161> View Post
    yeah vts are becoming the new vn here, seing plenty with rear stockies, front chromies towing invisible caravans.

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