Dizzy install in VS 5ltr

[Wagon_Wheel]

Hey guys, half way through putting new dizzy in my car.
Getting a bit confused at the moment, ive never done one before but anyways.

I found TDC (cyl 1 all the way to the bottom), and when i took the dizzy out i marked several spots on it so it goes in the same way, and marked where the rotor is pointing. Put new dizzy in and made sure the rotor is in the same direction it was.... and took a look and realized thats not cyl 1 the rotors pointing towards??? Its cyl 7 on the cap its pointing towards.

Is it fine to just change where the rotor points or will this just stuff everything up or just leave it as thats how it was running etc.....

Help, as im rather confused and need this done pretty soon

Cheers!

[greenfoam]

Just poke it in so the rotor is in the same spot it was on the old dizzy, your timing might need adjusting afterwards but it'll be close. Cylinder 1 all the way to TOP is tdc not all the way to the bottom

[Asmodai78]

i thought TDC was TOP DEAD CENTRE so the piston had to be at the top of the bore not a the bottom when doing that, well thats what i did when i replaced my dizzy.

[Wagon_Wheel]

Ohhh ok, i kept getting told different things, so is that really bad or will that still be fine to leave it at the bottom but just leave the rotor where it was when i took the old one out? And adjust timing afterwards?

[westbad]

TDC is 110% defo number 1 piston all the way to the TOP, level with the cylinder block.

If you get confused as to which lead goes where when you have installed the new dizzy (or if you get the dizzy in 180degrees out) rotate the engine by hand until you find TDC, where ever the rotor button is now pointing is your 1st firing point for cylinder number1. Then all you have to do is put the rest of the leads on one by one in the correct firing order which should be stamped on your inlet manifold.

[Wagon_Wheel]

Yeah cool thanks mate, i made sure i marked all the leads etc and made sure they all going on the same way. How would the dizzy go on 180 degrees out? Cant it only go in one way? the cap can only go on one way too?

[Blown V6 Hatch]

It will be 180 out if you time it on the wrong stroke. If you don't get it on compression stroke it will be 180 out. Just put the dizzy back in the way the old one came out, it will be fine. The only other way is to re-time the engine properly, on number 1 TDC compression stroke.

[Wagon_Wheel]

Ok everythings all back together now, car starts and runs fine, but is idling a bit higher than normal, does that mean i have to adjust the timing?

[greenfoam]

Yeah the timing has probably been advanced a bit

[lebowarrioz]

are you doing this with the engine out obviously i hope so cause i couldnt possibly imagine this being done while the engine is in the car

[Nanos]

wagon wheel is magic man. he be doing this with engine in.

did you get it timed up.

[Wagon_Wheel]

Yeah did it with motor in and inlet manifold still on, was awkward but just gotta be patient.
Still havnt got timing adjusted, havnt found anyone with a timing light yet might have to not be a tight ass and buy one. Although i dont think it needs that much, it idled about 200rpm higher than normal the first time, but ive moved the car a few times since and its been idling pretty much spot on. Still need checking though to be sure

[Nanos]

being forced induction dont run the rick of timing being out. when driving it listen carefully for any pinging.

[Wagon_Wheel]

Yeah i know man thats why its not moving much til i get it done

[gelousi]

Lol man i need to replace mine but im too scared to even look at it, i cant imagine how the fk you would set timing on it there is no room at all!

[Wagon_Wheel]

Sourced a timing light today finally. Could someone just quickly run me through the process for adjusting the timing?

Do I have to put car in diagnostics mode? ( link 5th and 6th pin?)
Do I set it to 10 degrees?

[greenfoam]

Yeah on a VS the top two pins in the middle (the only ones with contacts in them) then plug the light into cylinder one (first one on the drivers side) then shine it at the balancer and set it to +10 degrees. Assuming it was originally on 10 before your tuner got at it, but it should have been since ten is the factory setting. You might want to wear about ten pairs of leather gloves if you are going to play on spark plug leads while the engine is running (try not to touch them)

[Wagon_Wheel]

Sweet thanks jase. Just one more quick question. Which line do i go by on the timing case?
Theres a few small lines then a big line then a few smalls then A then a big line then R then some more small lines.
My guess was the big line in the middle of the A and the R???

.../...A/R...

[greenfoam]

The big line to the left is +10 degrees (thats what you want) the one between A and R would be zero

[Wagon_Wheel]

So I would want the 0 between the A&R and the 10 to be on the line to the left?
If so I read it completely wrong....

[greenfoam]

grr do I have to take a picture:P

[Wagon_Wheel]

If u must . Sorry dude just a bit confused. My workshop manual just says adjust it to 10 degrees but doesn't say anything at all about which line means which

[Wagon_Wheel]

???????????? Still confused. I can't find a pic or diagram anywhere.

[rusty91]

he is saying the line on the left of the two marked lines is 10 degrees. have so the line on the crank lines up with that line with ur timing light.. u kno how to adjust ur timing right.. by turning the dizzy but make sure still the bolt if firm enough but not firm so u can still turn it

[Wagon_Wheel]

Yeah i know how to do it, im just confused by the markings. So the line on the left is 10 degrees? What do i line that up to on the balancer? My balancer has 0 in the middle and increments either side of it goings up from zero