VS ignition barrel broken. Need to start her.
Hi, the trusty old Vs is sitting in a shopping centre carpark. The key will turn all the way, but the spring mechanism seems to have dissapeared and the car wont fire. All lights come on the dash so we have power. Just the bit that cranks is gone. (it's not the park switch or battery either, definately the barrel is flogged out) Now the management is on my case to remove all of her $800 glory so I need to pick it up tomorrow somehow. I know I will need a replacement barrel which is fine, but I'm thinking that if the key/barrel is providing power, shouldn't I be able to arc the solenoid on the starter and give her some life? Perhaps a little hotwire job is the go. I don't mind if I have to brake anything. Any tips or advise before the morning will be very much appreciated. Cheers.
Just lost the game.
You've checked the starter motor circuit right...?
Originally Posted by Philthy
The problem is the ignition itself from what I can gather. Before it died, turning the key became a bit sticky. What it does now is, key goes in, turns onto ACC, turns ontp ON no worries, and then the next turn to the engine crank (the spring return part) is not there. It simply turns forward with nothing and no return back to the ON position. Turn all the way back to OFF and the key will come out but sometimes the ACC are still on. I noticed the radio still on so I have disconnected the battery while she awaits her faith.
Tilt Tray. Easier than the mucking around.
earth your starter out and it will crank over. ;-)
Cool westy. Thanks for the backup.
The tilt tray is out of the question, as the mucking around for 5 minutes, far outweighs the 80k journey and the $$$$$.
Real cars are steel cars.
Sounds like the stoooopid ignition barrel has busted and will need to be replaced. To get you going, drop the lower steering column shroud and remove the ignition switch (two small screws), turn the key to the 'start' position (to unlock the steering) and use a small screwdriver to rotate the switch and start the car. You may need to remove the broken bit of the barrel from the switch first.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
The same thing happened to me 3 weeks ago but the key jammed in the start position and broke the starter motor.
Alloytec Racing
It sometimes takes a few goes to get my VR started, how ever i believe it might be the key. It turns all the way, sometimes with no response, if i pull the key out and try again i usually have some luck!
Life starts at 200km/h
Real cars are steel cars.
This a common fault with VS. Try tightening the main cable nut on the starter motor solenoid.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Alloytec Racing
sorery to hack this thread for a second, but where is this, pictures would be good!
Life starts at 200km/h
Righto, I simply turned the ignition to the on position and arced the solenoid from under the car behind the front wheel and she started sweetly and got her home. Took it apart and the end of the inside of the barrell had broken away from the switch with the spring in it. Gee that barrel can be a bugger to pull out even after pushing the pin in to release it. Wreckers on Monday morning for a replacement. If I get a key and barrel, I'm assuming I can just change the head/buttons of the original key over to the new key and all should be sweet.
Real cars are steel cars.
You can buy a new 'uncoded' barrel from Holden for around $60. You then are able to use your existing key. Im sure a DIY on this would be in here somewhere.
As this is a common problem, using secondhand parts may mean this will occur again in the near future. You will still be able to recode a secondhand barrel to match your key.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
not a bad idea RX, might be the way to go.
Never heard of that.I always thought you have to get the key cut to match the lock.If they sold a lock barrel that was a universal fit for anyones key,then anyones key would open or unlock it..
Donating Member
It is not a universal fit, the barrel has to be coded to suit your key.
MY RIDE
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.
I never heard of a chip in the barrel of a commodore ignition switch.I know theres a key reader around the outside of the barrel (2 metal contact rings)that reads the keys security code,this key reader is connected to the BCM for security.(Immobiliser).This code has nothing to do with the ignition lock barrel.Anyone else know anything about this?
Donating Member
There is no chip. When you buy a new barrel it comes with many little bits and piece that I do not know the name of, these need to be fitted in the lock cylinder in the correct sequence to suit the key. This is usually done by a locksmith as they know how to do it. Perhaps the correct word for this is not "coded" and this is causing the confusion. We are talking about coding the key and not the key remote.
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.
Right,I wanted to know as Im looking at replacing my ignition lock because it gets stuck when turning it from off to on,and is slowly getting worse.Getting a new key cut didnt make any difference either.I dont want to have to go through the crap of changing the igniton lock(different lock and key) and then have to change the door and boot locks as well,I just want to change the ignition barrel and use the original key.So this new "blank" barrel might be the way to go.Thanks for the info.I will post how I go with it.The little pieces inside a lock are called tumblers and they are different lenghts to match the high and low spots of the key.
Donating Member
Get it replaced before it get to the point where it won't turn any more making it very difficult to remove. Many locksmiths carry these barrels now and they will set it for you and it is usually a lot cheaper than buying one from Holden and then having it coded.
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.
your right on the money there... i had to have a new lock made for my ute.
It was the drivers door lock not the ignition but it was the same principle, i got a new lock took it to a locksmiths and they "coded" the new barrel to fit my key, the new barrel came with many small plate type things that had to be fitted in the correct order to match the key.
Real cars are steel cars.
Sorry for any confusion but Holden spares always seem to refer to it as an 'uncoded barrel'.
Part number is 92048530 if anyone needs it.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Jarryd
Thought I'd dig up this thread and share my experience. Found this video, probably on here: Commodore VX2 Ignition Key Barrel Repair 1 - YouTube there are 3 parts to it. Watch it like I did and it tell you all the 'tricks' to coding a new barrel. Then it should take you half an hour tops if you understood the video properly to code the new barrel yourself.
Saves going to a locksmith and forking out for them to do something quite easy. The locksmith I originally went to didn't have the time to do it for me, but said they use WD-40 as a lubricant, NOT GRAPHITE.
Fitting it is a bit more of a pain in the ass, I broke my ignition switch...kinda...but it still works, you will know what I mean when you do the job yourself and save $200+
Holden should be selling these barrels at cost the ******s
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