im just about to pull out the engine and box in 1 go
is there anyway to remove the aircon pump without undoing the lines so i dont let the gas out and can just push the aircon compressor aside and bolt onto the new engine
it doesnt look like there is enough room between the pump , chassis and the front top aircon line to remove the bolts, ive moved the power steer pump to save any mess and hassle later on rebleeding etc
is there any other tips i need to know pulling it all out ? is it best to remove the hand brake cable from under the box or can i just undo the gearbox mount bolts and get it all out that way
any help would be appreciated
thanks
I would loosen the hand brake cable it sometime get hooked up just enought to pee you off, you have removed the bonnet i take it? you can just undo the bolt of the air con pump that bolt it to the mount on the side of the motor lift the motor a little it may help and remove the pump from the motor and zip tie it out of the way.
Hi darthdingas
Luv this forum that was a fast response thankyou
yeh mate i have taken the bonnet off, i will go out and give what you said a go
thanks again for your help
How did you go?? get it out alright
yeh mate all good thanks
its just hanging on the engine crane now all out in 1 piece, just got it out
got the aircon compressor off as well and kept all the gas intact , as you said raise it up and it works fine
just have to remember to re install it before i put the engine back in place
just gotta pull the box off put it on the new engine, replace a few seals and maybe get some new engine mounts then back in
thanks for the advice
Last edited by deanos70; 21-03-2010 at 04:50 PM.
just got another question re the torque converter
ive read on here something about spinning it till it clicks 3 times or something
i pulled the motor and box out together, put the box on another motor and re installing, i had to take the torque converter off the crap motor and put it on the new motor to install
when i bolt it back onto the flexplate does it matter what way it goes
sorry might seem like a dumb question , but never owned an auto before always had manuals to play with
i went to get a workshop manual but they had no in stock, its getting ordered in
i had to swap sumps over as one was dented, it is really amazing how much sludge was sitting in the bottom of both of them, the pick ups were half blocked , can really see why motors run low oil pressure or fail
not to mention the main bearing shells sitting in the bottom of the stuffed engines sump
thanks again
Last edited by deanos70; 23-03-2010 at 04:38 PM.
alot of people say click it back 3 times, but i never have, and ive done a few gearbox replacements, half the time i dont evan take the tourque converter off the motor, just use a spare to line the splines up with the gearbox
edit* there is no certain way the tourque converter bolts up, long as all 3 wholes are lined up no problems
Vs eco 3.8, extractors, 2.75" exhaust, roller rockers, cammed, bored out 20, t5 manual, rolling on king springs all way round with monroe gt shocks all way round, every door has a ding but looks can be very deceaving
Ive never done anything like spinning it till it clicks (never heard of that one before) Just make sure you put some trans fulid before you fit it might get a little messy (i just helps it fill up) and be sure to put locktight on the bolts they can come lose no it doesnt matter what way it goes back on, Ive done it so many times and never had a problem!!
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Last edited by westbad; 23-03-2010 at 10:32 PM.
Nope, you can get it back on with the engine bolted in place. I've done this twice very recently. You can get it off with the motor still bolted in as well. Bit fiddly though, your way is probably better and I wish I'd thought of it
Handbrake cable: I didn't have to remove or loosen that at all. I undid then removed the crossmember and it all came up no problems.
Sam
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
Thanks guys for all your info and tips
I understand what the 3 clicks mean now
probably will have to the weekend to finish it all, have to go and get a new sump gasket , atf , might as well do the gearbox filter as well
and ordered some new engine and tranny mounts today, so hopefully they turn up by the weekend
will post up how it get on with it all
thanks again
Last edited by deanos70; 23-03-2010 at 05:34 PM.
will the torque converter fill up ok if i just instal it without fluid in it and fill up the auto transmission the usual way
reason i ask im putting the engine and box back in as 1 and the fluid will probably just run out the rear of the box when i put it up on the engine crane to install
thanks
Yeah you can, just run it for a little, put your foot on the brake and run through the gears up the revs a "little" you'll feel it get better and just keep cheaking the Trans oil level.
cheers mate
put the t/c back on the box , felt it click in ok
the cut out on the t/c shaft seem to be mated to the lugs in the box shaft and the converter is pushed back into the box snug
big thanks again , will join it all back up now and hopefully my engine mounts will be here on monday so i can throw it all back in
thanks again
Well my engine / transmission mounts turned up today
What a *####*# of a job
i found by leaving the new mounts on only finger tight give me just enough movement to push, shove, hit them into the k-frame
then i had to tighten them up in the vehicle, thats not too bad except for engine mount bolt behind the aircon bracket
not a fun job at all
i was told when holden built the vehicles they bolted the k-frame to the engine then lifted the whole thing up.
the difference is height from the old mounts to the new mounts due to sagging is really surprising
did i mention what a *####*# of a job, ha ha
Well donenow do it all again twice, it gets easier!!
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WTB: mulberry VN interior parts