Need some information on this. I dont know anything about crank angle sensor, or what they do.
All i hear, is that they are a common part to fail.
I go to the mechanics, to ask if he can replace the sensor,( i got one from E bay)
The mechanic tells me, i will need a new harmonic balancer, and a new crank seal as well.
When i ask why, i was told,
The Crank Angle Sensor, will only fail if your engine overheats, or gets very hot, causing the Harmonic Balancer to expand, and striking the Crank Angle Sensor, causing it to fail from damage. The clearance between the Harmonic Balancer, and the crank angle sensor must be very minimal?
Any one know if this is true? I only wanted it replaced as a precautionary measure.
I was told to leave it alone, while it is good.
I had some problems with my ute, and this is just one other thing i was going to replace.
Going great now after ( DFI unit failed, then i replaced coil pack and some new leads and plugs, then my fuel pump went)
Now i have a rattle in the rear left, having ther upper torshion bars? ( bars from the diff to the chassis) replaced, the bush is flogged out, causing the bolt to rattle in the bush.
Thanks
wiseman
Usually if the harmonic balancer is old (cracks showing in the rubber etc) its worthwhile replacing it while its removed from the engine,like when changing the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor).The front seal is a cheap part and also doesnt hurt replacing it either while its all apart..If these parts are old the mechanic is probably right about changing them.Ive never heard of the engine overheating and causing the CAS to stuff up.I know heat can effect the CAS but thats when it is on its last legs anyway.Dont listen to who ever told you about not changing it.If I had engine trouble at all its one of the first things I would change.Also watch out for cheaper non genuine sensors.We replaced one once and had the same problems happen still.After a lot more stuffing around we tried another sensor,a genuine holden one and the car has not has the problem back since.The problems you have fixed (coil packs etc) sound like your typical 15 year old car problems.
Last edited by Brett_jjj; 23-03-2010 at 04:06 PM.
Your mechanic was over dramatising it a bit. They fail due to old age mainly in these cars.
Are you in WA?
I'd leave it alone, but I have done a few of these and you do not need to replace the harmonic balancer or the crank seal unless they are stuffed already. Let me know if you need any more info.. it's very much a DIY job if you have some basic tools and mechanical skillthe only specialised tool you need is a puller to get the harmonic balancer off (they are press fit)
Feel free to PM me if you're in WA and need this done, I will save you a tonne of cash over a mech, that's for sure
Sam
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
Stalling V6 Ecotec
I had done all these things in my thread which did need to be done so i done both but wasnt the problem.
I agree with Sam. Mine went and i never had to replace the harmonic balancer. Got it replaced and i haven't had a problem since. That was about 4 years ago now......
i would recommend not touching it thou unless you have to replace it.
Follow Your Dreams......RIP Brocky 1945 - 2006......May God Rest Your Soul
just had the CAS replaced on my wifes vs berlina. the car would not start b4 , had to get towed to local auto electrician . he diagnosed the problem and replaced the CAS , all up cost including GST was $ 195 . i thought the price was reasonable as it can be a difficult job unless you have all the right tools. i would try a few more mechanics or auto electricians for quotes.
Thanks for the help and info guys. Some very interesting thoughts and opinions. After i replaced all the other stuff, ( DFI failed, coil pack, leads and plugs, fuel pump(Died) and filter), the CAS was last on the list. The car is running fine now, and has no starting problems, so the mechanic suggested i leave the CAS alone till it does ever fail. I will, cause i have run out of money, lol. Including joining the NRMA, (so i could get towed), im up to about $800, and still need two 17 inch front tyres, a wheel alignment, and power steer pump is leaking!
I think i will be keeping this ute for a long, long time. Should be good for another 200,000KM or so.
Thanks again for the info.
Just quickly, the power steering pump leak is normally due to worn o-rings, or a hose being a bit dodgy, have a look at those first, as the parts are cheap and you can do it all yourself. Quick and easy and cheap fix : )
Follow Your Dreams......RIP Brocky 1945 - 2006......May God Rest Your Soul