technical advice. stalling v8 vr

[Haydz]

hey guys need a bit of technical advice.


today pulling up to the lights my vr continually became lumpier until it stalled. i thought it was a bit weird started it and gave it a bit of a rev. everything seemed fine. put it into drive and it stalled.

then got it going again and it would stall continually faster though. as in it would last 45 seconds when i first tried to restart it. then each consecutive time maybe 30 seconds. till now it doesnt want to start.

ive checked for spark and fuel and it has both. but im guessing there is a fault in the ignition system.

anyone have any prior knowledge or experience on what to check and how to check it. so i can buy the right parts and fix it.

much appreciated.

[strgas]

check your coil , trigger module , fuel pressure and volume of delivery , condition of fuel for dirt and water or crap , fuel filter for blockages .

[Brett_jjj]

Ive been reading a lot on here lately that with the 5 litre engines,theres been a lot of ignition parts failures.The ignition module and the hall effect sensor in the distributor seem to be common items,so its worth testing these things.Also do an error check.Heres the link.Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)

[Haydz]

thanks guys ill give it a crack tomorrow after work. cant be bothered at the moment.

ive checked the error codes and got nothing.

[baza]

last year the hall effect sensor failed in my stato but the check engine light did not come on. engine refused to start , so it is a maybe for your car. but if your car starts easy and then stalls maybe check the IAC stepper motor on the throttlebody could be clogged with black gunk or the IAC not working properly which will affect idling. if you clean the IAC with carby cleaner , do the throttlebody as well .....good luck haydz.

[Haydz]

well i just checked the fuel and there is fuel coming out when priming when i removed the hose. how fast is the fuel meant to flow? it comes out at a constant stream but i always thought there was more pressure than that.


it wont start but it kicks once. like you crank it then it ignites once and doesnt have the timing or something to continue running and stops. im ruling out the coil because it has spark and ruling out the fuel pump because it has fuel.


i have one question. will the car still spark with a faulty ignition module?

if it wont then it must be either the distributor ie hall effect sensor?

thanks again for all your help

[NeilB]

I think it will spark but you will not get Injector pulse

[baza]

after reading your latest post haydz, those symtoms you wrote are the exact same as when the HALL EFFECT sensor craped itself in my stato last year. when the auto elctrician replaced the hall sensor on mine he also replaced the coil , while he had the dissy out it was easier to get at . the coil i think was 65 dollars. again, good luck.......

[Haydz]

thanks for that bazza.

i changed the fuel filter to no avail.

i think it has to be one or the other of them.

[Haydz]

ive taken a quick vid to show you guys what its doing.


getting a new distributor and coil tomorrow. hoping that it fixes the issue. if not its back to the drawing board.

[muttley383]

What is the colour of the spark to the plugs. If it is a weak yellow then the coil is stuffed.
Spark needs to be a strong white arc that should be able to jump 10mm in open air to earth.

[BlackVXGTS]

That video is interesting. I don't recall getting any short starting or otherwise when my ignition trigger module and my coil failed and needed to be replaced (separate occasions).

[wortus]

There's an electronic module sitting on the passengers side inner guard, it's a metal box with a transistor package and heat sink visable on the top. Take it apart and check the connections of this transistor to the PCB. On a friends VS 5.0L Caprice these joints were dry and had to be resoldered this caused a similar fault. He went and bought a 2nd hand one and it was almost as bad so it may be a fairly common problem.

[jon_vs]

Hmmm. I am having a similar problem with my VS Caprice. Only there are subtle differences -
1. Mine will start (easily as if nothing is wrong) when the engine is cold.
2. When driving it will suddenly stop as if the ignition switch has been turned off. (no caughing or spluttering)
3. When it stops, it will start again after a period of time (from almost immediate to when the NRMA arrives, 90mins) Yes, it always starts for the NRMA.
4. Currently it may run for a day or so without problem, and then without any warning, stops.
I thought I had it pegged down to the Ignition Control Module - (NRMA guy told me that the ICM is the weakest link and they are always failing. He also told me to flood it with cold water when it happens and see if that makes any difference - It did - made it much easier to restart). Arranged to swap to a rebuilt ICM. On doing, the car would not start (it was already hot). Put a meter on the ICM and seemingly no pulse from the Hall Effect Sensor. Re-installed my original ICM - it still would not start. Called the NRMA - started first turn. So it looks like it is the HES, but I am not ruling out a possible problem with the ICM as well.
I hope this helps.

[Brett_jjj]

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[Brett_jjj]

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[Brett_jjj]

Sorry people, dont know what ive done (above) for this to happen.Ive stuffed up somehow somewhere.

[Haydz]

Replaced the coil and the Distributer with new bosch items and it works perfectly now. thanks for the help guys helped me brainstorm it out and fix the damn thing

[dirt drifter]

my vs did something very similar the other nite, died on me, had no error codes, had fuel spark and injector pulse and would want to fire when the key was first turned but couldnt do it.

after 2 hours trying to figure it out it cooled down a bit and started for me, i got it home and found the negative battery lead was loose at the engine end, tightened it back up and now she runs great again