Have just replaced the front standard link pins today on my VR BT1 ABS FE2, with nolathane kit and found it impossible to do without removing the sway bar - I read all the previous posts and thought no problem but no could not remove them. did I miss something? Had stands under the chassis so suspension was hanging free - not sure if I did it the hard way or not. Any comments appreciated. Also local Holden dealer has informed me after me inquiring that struts, front and rear springs are still available for VR FE2 suspension, I got prices and seem pretty fair - struts $121.00 each, rear springs $62 each and front springs $55 each. No I'm not a mechanic or work for any Holden Dealer (I'm a fitter in the fuel industry) so this not a sales pitch just for information only to those interested.
I had to bend the sway bar down a little but fit in easy enough.
I agree,I replaced the front struts and springs,and rear springs with genuine FE2 stuff from holden.Its about the cheapest brand new sports type suspension you can get.Also fitted monroe rear shocks.My VS executive had the normal standard suspension fitted from new and it was worn out.I also replaced all the bushes with nolothane type bushes, and got a good wheel alignment and it rides and handles pretty good now.Its probably drives as good as when it was new. All I need to get now is FE2 swaybars.It still has the normal standard swaybars fitted.Just has nolothane bushes fitted.But its well worth doin if you want cheap brand new suspension.
to fit the link pin the hub assembly needs to be turned as far as possible and then the swar bar needs to be wedged down to the control arm and it comes out easy
No, I've replaced these a few times on a VN and it is easier to remove the sway bar and fit the new links to the bar and then put it back in. It's just an extra 2 bolts and you'd fine it almost impossible to get the rubbers sitting in properly trying to get new links and rubbers in by forcing the sway bar down, while they may go in the standard kits don't want to line up properly, the nolothane ones with the bent link may however go in OK by just forcing the bar down but in my experience it's easier to drop the bar.
Do your final adjustment withthe car sitting on the ground so the suspension is at ride height.
If you want to put in FE2 the sway bars are probably different, the FE2 one for a VN is a few mm thinner than the standard one and also if it's a solid rear end the rubbers in one of the upper arms are harder.
My vr has fe2 springs and I replaced the struts at the same time when i fitted them to suit the springs....it has nolathane link pins and renewed inner control arm bushes and new upper supports and z bar bushes...it has a new rack but it has a thump noise that I cant find that happens when I go over bigish bumps when the spring compresses....it happens on both sides...a sort of clunk.....next I might look at ball joints....but I cant see any play...any ideas? Ive checked the nuts and washers on top of the strut and they are done up tight
Also I previously had king springs fitted but didnt like the harsh ride and the clunk was there with them too. I actually measured the wire size on the king springs and compared them to fe2 and the fe2 are bigger...what the? more harsh ride on fe2?
This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain
......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday
markovr,
king springs are approx. 15mm lower than factory fe2 - this may account for harshness.
Definitely found it was easier to pull the sway bar out completely.
i recently did my Vr stato and had to remove the sway bar
Thanks for the replies guys - but found out when I wedged myself under the car to try and tighten them up with load on them - the bas!@#ds were now sitting with plenty of clearance on the bottom, so next time will jack up each rotor arm while on stands and see what happens - me thinks this may work.
I seem to recal reading that your not meant to jack these cars up by the control arms but I may be mistaken. Assuming that you can you would need to do both sides as the once. It's probably easier to get soem ramps and put the car up on those or make some wooden wheel stands like I have, the wheels sit in the top and it raises the car about 8 to 10 inches.
sorry wortus, think you misunderstood, I meant when the chassis is supported then with wheels removed, jack up either the the disc or the control arm while the weight of the vehicle is on the chassis stands.
You shouldn't need to remove the sway bar. You just need to remove the bolts from the link pins on both sides. The sway bar then swings down and out of the way. Put on the new links and rubbers then swing the bar up again to seat the link pins. You need to seat both at the same time which is a little tricky if you are doing it yourself, but it can be done (provided your arms are long enough).