Just got my self a manual conversion. few questions

[fonzo]

just got a FULL T5 conversion for my s2 berlina. gunna take engine out so i can change engine mounts and do the rear main seal is there any other preventitave measures i can take so the engine may not have to come out again the in the future? i dont wanna do a rear main put it back in and find something else broke and the engine has to come back out. so ill replace it now while its out and also what oil mixtures best in the T5

[Brett_jjj]

A good preventative thing to do is to check out the welch plugs around the engine,check them carefully for corrosion,leaks etc..They are heaps easier to replace while the engine is out. Theres one at the back of the engine and the trans has to be removed to access it.So if the engine is out for any reason,always have a good look at them.They are easy and cheap to replace.

[deanos70]

as bret said do the welch plugs, they are only about $20 a set
i just had my motor and box out on the weekend and replaced my rear main seal, only about $32 from bursons for the seal

when you put the new seal in it has to sit between 4.2mm and 4.7mm from the rear face of the seal to the rear face of the crankshaft flange, if you sit it in to far the rear main bearing cap oil return will be blocked and the seal will leak

when your getting the old one out becareful if you are using screwdrivers you dont want to put burrs or grooves in the crank or it will leak too, also check the crank for any burrs before you put new one in, it is bit of a bugger to get the old one out so you dont damage the crank, but just go easy with it

its surprising how much the old engine mounts sag, when i put my new engine mounts on i thought i had the wrong ones as they looked like no way they would line up back in the mounting holes in the k frame , i had to leave them pretty loose and the aircon bracket loose as well only finger tightened the bolts on, then engine lower them down and lever them into place then tighten it all up, its a bugger to do

if your old aircon is still gassed up, undo your air compressor from the engine, leave all the hoses attatched and push aside, saves you a regas afterwards, i also down that with the power steering so i didnt have to refill / bleed and saved the oil running everywhere

if leaving the loom on when you are pulling the engine out, dont forget to undo the earth wire from the body near the battery, and also the small fuse / relay panel on the battery side of the main fuse / relay block there is a little flap you can open up and with a 10mm socket undo the power cable

i found it a lot easier to take the throttle body and accelerator cable plate off when removing the engine as well

also for the sake of about $22 replace the sump gasket it would be a bastard to do later in the car, while the sump is off clean it and the oil pick up ,
the amount of sludge i found sitting in the bottom of mine that doesnt come out in an oil change is amazing, and the oil pick up was half blocked up with crap as well

[fonzo]

as bret said do the welch plugs, they are only about $20 a set
i just had my motor and box out on the weekend and replaced my rear main seal, only about $32 from bursons for the seal

when you put the new seal in it has to sit between 4.2mm and 4.7mm from the rear face of the seal to the rear face of the crankshaft flange, if you sit it in to far the rear main bearing cap oil return will be blocked and the seal will leak

when your getting the old one out becareful if you are using screwdrivers you dont want to put burrs or grooves in the crank or it will leak too, also check the crank for any burrs before you put new one in, it is bit of a bugger to get the old one out so you dont damage the crank, but just go easy with it

its surprising how much the old engine mounts sag, when i put my new engine mounts on i thought i had the wrong ones as they looked like no way they would line up back in the mounting holes in the k frame , i had to leave them pretty loose and the aircon bracket loose as well only finger tightened the bolts on, then engine lower them down and lever them into place then tighten it all up, its a bugger to do

if your old aircon is still gassed up, undo your air compressor from the engine, leave all the hoses attatched and push aside, saves you a regas afterwards, i also down that with the power steering so i didnt have to refill / bleed and saved the oil running everywhere

if leaving the loom on when you are pulling the engine out, dont forget to undo the earth wire from the body near the battery, and also the small fuse / relay panel on the battery side of the main fuse / relay block there is a little flap you can open up and with a 10mm socket undo the power cable

i found it a lot easier to take the throttle body and accelerator cable plate off when removing the engine as well

also for the sake of about $22 replace the sump gasket it would be a bastard to do later in the car, while the sump is off clean it and the oil pick up ,
the amount of sludge i found sitting in the bottom of mine that doesnt come out in an oil change is amazing, and the oil pick up was half blocked up with crap as well

Thanks for all that its been a great help. sump gasket sounds like a good idea.i might do the water pump too. opnly problem is i have an engine crane no engine stand to do the sump gasket.