ok, ive tried everything but o matter what i change or clean it wont go away. when i first start the car in the morning it just fires up, not even half a crank- just key in turn and it just starts. then when i go to accelerate it will shudder a little bit then be fine when driving. now if i go back to the car say after half an hour or an hour it will take a while to start, more than normal cranking.
i did have an engine transplant but this was happening before the new engine. i took the car for new injectors and it was since then that it started to play up. after new engine its still doing the same thing. ive had the CAS changed from the one off my old engine but it was working fine before i had the injectors done so i kinda ruled that out. any help on this please? ive been to the mechanic and they've said it could be my key/ignition, but i just cant place it.
Probably the best thing you could do to start off with, is check to see if the ECU has any codes stored in it, then go from there.![]()
Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)
yeh done that. code 12 is always there. occasionally i will get a code 31- theft deterrant signal missing. but can that be linked to the way it starts cold and warm?
hmm.. I can't see how it would, but the BCM does partly control ignition, because of the immobiliser and stuff, and if it's auto, the inhibitor switch could be playing up, but then hot and cold wouldn't make a difference.
I'm wondering, if you are using the same intake manifold off the old engine on your new engine, or a new one?
Cause if it's the old one that you had problems with before, there could be a problem with it, like a crack you can't see, that opens when it gets hot?
An air leak on the intake side will cause all kinds of crazy behaviour.
Otherwise maybe the coil packs, the DFI module under the coil packs?
I know this may sound lame but if you know someone with the same car or you have a good mechanic swap over parts to test out mmm i seem to think its a leak in air or fuel line (injector) somewhere
I had a honda accord that did the same thing cold start first time in winter never played up summer it was a bitch and in 12 years paid over $1500 worth of fixes but never did sold car with its problems and never heard of again its scary good luck and if you find problem post back would like to know
Oh yeah just thought i may let you know the quickest way to find an inlet leak (my opinion) squirt some wd40 or equivalent while car is running along inlet manifold and if it starts to stall presto there's your leak has worked for me on many cars over time
Yeah that is a good trick too, I sometimes use that Start Ya Bastard!, it works the same way, if the engine flares or drops, you've found it.![]()