cold start problem on VS V6
I am having problems starting my VS when it has been sitting overnight.
Once it starts it runs fine but takes alot of cranking.
It starts first go when warm.
So far have checked the following-
No error codes
Fuel pump works
Plenty of fuel press at the injectors
Good spark at plugs
Battery fully charged
Starter cranks over nicely
Changed oil press. switch
Checked all relays OK
Temp, sensor working.
No manifold leaks.
Has anyone had similar problem?
I don't know what else to check.
Car has done 146000 ks since new, regularly serviced.
Im having a similar problem but mine has a miss for a few seconds when first started after sitting for more than 24 hours.It starts perfectly any other time.I think I may have something leaking into the cylinders,pretty much checked out everything else.I havent had a chance to let it sit long enough to check it yet but Im gonna remove the plugs and check if anything is leaking into the cylinders over time.It could be coolant or a leaking fuel injector.So maybe you should let yours sit overnight then remove the plugs and check them for wetness or contaminants.The thing is my car doesnt use any coolant and it doesnt blow any kind of smoke or steam at startup and the compression readings are good.If it was fuel it should blow a bit of black smoke,if it was coolant it should blow some steam or have a drip of water coming out the exhaust or something.Theres just no signs of anything being wrong.
Last edited by Brett_jjj; 18-04-2010 at 02:09 PM.
I have checked the plugs and they are clean and dry.
Problem only occurs when engine is stone cold,
The longer it sits the longer it takes to start.
Thats why I checked out the battery and charging circuit first.
They all checked out OK.
Crank Angle Sensor?
What did you check the error codes with?
Mine is strange.It can sit for 15 - 20 hours (which in that time it should be stone cold)and it will start fine.But if it sits for say 24 hours or longer it stuffs right up and takes ages to start. Its the same as yours there,the longer it sits,the more time it takes to get it going.Ive got an error code 97 coming up which is the cannister purge solenoid which I have to pick up a new one monday and fit it.But my cold start problem was happening before I even got that error code showing up.Someone suggested to me when I posted about my problem that I should wipe the cylinders with a clean cloth through the sparkplug hole after its been sitting overnight as the plugs might not get wet,which is true if the piston is sitting down a bit in the cylinder.You have tried or replaced everything else,it doesnt leave much else that could be wrong.Same as me.Originally Posted by pomiedore vs
I dont think the purge solenoid would affect a cold start situation.
I'm beginning to think that the starter is draining too much power on a cold start.
Not giving enough power to the coils.
You need max. spark when cold because the fuel mixture is richer.
I think I will check the starter solenoid.
"..of mice and men.."
I've been wondering if this is just another Ecotec 'thing', just like that hotter running Ecotec 'thing'? lol
My VS also takes a few more revs to fire when cold than my VR ever did.
Even in middle of Winter type cold, the VR still wouldn't need to turn over for as long as my VS does before firing.
On the 7th day, God created Holden, then on the 8th day, God created Ford, to keep idiots out of Holden's.
Does it wind over ok.A good test is to turn the headlights on to high beam and then start the engine and see how much the headlights dim as it winds over and starts,they should dim a bit and the engine should still wind over and start.If the starter struggles or stops and the lights go really dim or off,the battery or starter is most likely the problem.
I know what you mean.
I think Holden had a bad batch of wiring looms go through.
Had a bad connector to my fuel pump and a bad earth to the O2 sensors.
Took me months to find the problem.
And threw heaps of money away with mechanics who could'nt find the cuase.
What was happening when your oxygen sensor earths were playing up?What are the signs that you may have this problem?
Lights dim a bit but cranks over OK and starts.
Engine was warm though.
Will try again when it is cold.
Id say theres plenty of power there then.Maybe also try taking a plug lead off, and hold it(with insulated handled pliers) about a centimetre away from the engine block and see if it throws a good spark while the engine is winding over and starting.
Fuel economy was woeful, ran rough at part throttle, check engine warning light came on.
Flashed error codes 45, 76,
There is spark at the plug when lead is removed,
but I can't tell if it is strong enough when cold.
As long as its a strong white/blue spark it is ok.If its red/orange colour and weak theres a problem somewhere.
Thanks mate, Ive read of a few people on here having earth problems with their oxy sensors and I was wondering what was happening to notice it.
A Memcal a Day Keeps..
leaking injectors will do that, longer it's cold more fuel in chamber. Ive had this before, there was no fuel smell or smoke either when started, but after pulling the pelium off and letting the injectors sit on some rags or in a drip tray and checking in a hour or two you could see the fuel drips.
Does it run ruff when it does get firing.
A Memcal a Day Keeps..
Alot of people complain about the car nearly stalling when changing gears with an auto while engine is up to temperature, most often this o2's gone.
Thanks for the info The1.
I guess I can test for fuel leaks past the injectors by holding the throttle part open when cranking.
Like you I do not get any black smoke or rough running when she fires.
Ok guys
Further to the problem.
This morning tried cranking with the throttle partly open.
Made no difference, car fired up after some time with no fuel smell or any evidence of being flooded.
However, noticed the main power lead to the 60 amp fuse had a burnt look on the insulation.
This lead supplies power to everything except the starter.
It also is spliced and joined to the lead which leads to the alternator.This is a standard factory loom !
Not an ideal way of supplying all those amps.
I will try to make up a separate lead from the battery and see how that goes.
But I still think the coils don't get enough power at cold start because the connectors are pin connectors.
Might work fine when car is new but after time and a bit of corrosion they will play up.
Can't beat the good old spade connectors.... larger surface area=less resistance.
Sounds like most VS's do it, Yeah in the mornings mines similiar cranks a few more times than it would if u used it few times in the day
How did the spark look when you checked,was it a strong blue spark or weak orange spark?But I still think the coils don't get enough power at cold start because the connectors are pin connectors.
Spark looked yellowish while cranking the starter.
My eyesight isn't what it used to be, could have been white to yellowish.
But not blue.
It should throw a strong blue/white spark.If its orange/red coloured its a weak spark and that could be part of your problem.When were your coils renewed last?
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