Waterpump failure.

[hako]

Just had my second waterpump fail at 240K (first at 80K). Was very lucky as I'd only just returned from a 3000km trip otherwise big $$$$. Anyway here are some things I noted starting with the first sign of failure - a ticking noise from the engine (cold) plus it just didn't feel 'right', this was followed about 1 km later with the smell of burning rubber then 200m later we noticed the temp gauge climbing rapidly towards HOT. Pulled over and switched engine off but left ignition on to watch gauge which went rapidly to 3/4 then LO fan, then 7/8 HI fan came on and finally at HOT the warning chime sounded, popped bonnet and radiator was stone cold, hoses felt as though they were under high pressure and there had been a tiny spray of coolant onto the coil pack. Pressure held OK and the engine did not boil. The belt was partly off the waterpump pulley. So for the first time in 50 years of driving I ring for a tow.
Next is to try to get a waterpump as it's 4PM and a PH next day, Holdens don't have one in stock and if they did they want $235 so found a small parts place that had one for $80 and Japanese made. Why would you buy genuine?
The pump is a breeze to change - remove the belt, undo 4 bolts from the pulley and 8 bolts from the pump and it's off. Fortunately I'd lubed the bolts with anti-sieze last time so there were no problems. Cleaned the old gasket away which was easy as I never use sealant. New one in, fill with correct coolant, bleed and it's all over in 90 minutes.
Not sure why the old one failed - I removed the shaft and impeller and from the attached pix you can see where the impeller has fouled with the housing...the bearing must have somehow allowed the shaft to move in the housing despite the bearing balls appearing 'round'- the outer case was destroyed in disassembly.
So maybe next time I go on a long trip I'll carry a coilpack, DFI, CAS, harmonic balancer and a fuelpump for spares. Plus a long strong rope and a G3 mobile phone.

[RX25SE]

Did the aftermarket pump have the same style of impellor?

[The1]

mine went when i bought the car 160,000 still had original on it, got 260,000 now so it's not doing to bad and i put a $80 japan one on, i did the same on the mother inlaws vs put a $80 japan one on her's, original went at 170,000, both still going without problems so far, both ours failed with water coming out the main shaft and making noises.

160,000 isn't to bad. Ive known other cars to do 300,000 with original though.

[sus steven]

i think mines is on it way out sounds like it got a dirty sc14 under the hood and it is original on 230 000

[BENJAMUM]

i just got a new one because the gaskit went on the old 1 thinking 89 bucks was cheep so i got a new one at 220,000 not 2 bad i gess lol

[hako]

New pump has a machined alloy impeller. Old one was GMB brand. Not sure what impeller the original had when it failed at 80KM due to water leak.

[immortality]

looking at the "goo" around the bearing it would suggest that the seal has failed some time ago. maybe not enough to loose pressure in the system but enough to weep coolant through and damage the bearings.

doesn't take much to damage seal. could off been damage that occured during assembly and it's taken this long to lead to a failure

[hako]

looking at the "goo" around the bearing it would suggest that the seal has failed some time ago. maybe not enough to loose pressure in the system but enough to weep coolant through and damage the bearings.

doesn't take much to damage seal. could off been damage that occured during assembly and it's taken this long to lead to a failure

You could be right - quite a few months ago I noticed that belt wear marks on the tensioner pulley had shifted towards the front, as though the belt was now contacting the tensioner pulley from a different angle - this could be caused by the water pump pulley shifting forward and changing the belt run.so maybe the problem has gradually crept towards failure.

EDIT: attached another pix in which you can see the rusty part on the pulley where the belt 'used' to sit so that confirms your suggestion.
EDIT EDIT....bugger...the warning sign was there and identified but not investigated.

[deanos70]

i did remember reading something about some pumps that the shaft is press fitted and another is machined or cast or something like that
one of them was prone to failure more often than the other type

should that spacer be used that comes with the new water pump

[RX25SE]

You could be right - quite a few months ago I noticed that belt wear marks on the tensioner pulley had shifted towards the front, as though the belt was now contacting the tensioner pulley from a different angle - this could be caused by the water pump pulley shifting forward and changing the belt run.so maybe the problem has gradually crept towards failure.

Maybe the angle of the shaft changed slightly as the bearing began to fail. This would explain the belt running in a slightly different spot.
Also, a machined impellor is far superior to those stamped metal ones IMO.

[hako]

Maybe the angle of the shaft changed slightly as the bearing began to fail. This would explain the belt running in a slightly different spot.
Also, a machined impellor is far superior to those stamped metal ones IMO.

I'd agree with you there - the metal impellers remind me of primitive paddle wheels whilst the machined ones appear to be engineered. I'd also agree that bearing wear/fail changed the angle of the pulley....but it's surprising that it lasted long enough to leave a rust witness mark on the pulley.
Another thing noticed when doing the job was a rough tensioner bearing which I must replace soon (also replaced at 80KM)

[wortus]

I used one of those Japanese ones on my VN. I got it from Super cheap for around $90.00 and it worked fine. I priced it from Mekong spares which were a lot cheaper and Super Cheap matched that price and refunded the difference!
I recall it had a machined impeller as well. The bearing went in my old one I noticed a loud noise one day when I got out to open the garage door and took off the belt and turning the pump by hand it got stuck in the same spot each revolution.
I had a bugger of a time getting it off as the threads to the water jacket had not been sealed and the 4 big bolts had corroded to the pump body and timing case. I had to grind off the head of one bolt and the stump luckily came out easily with vice grips.
When you put these pumps back on it's a good idea to ensure the threads into the block are dry and use some loctite thread sealer on the 4 big bolts to ensure no coolant leaks out as this caused the problem I had coupled with the fact that the previous owner may not have properly maintained the coolant.

I've seen water pumps with the pressed metal impeller completely rusted away and agree the machined ones are better. Befor I set out on any trips I take the belt off and check the bearings in the water pump and alternator. Good idea to take a spare regulator as well incase the brushes are worn and you get a charge light on your trip and have to get an expensive change over alternator.

[Richie217]

My water pump shagged itself 5pm Sunday. Just returning home from a 200k round trip, get to my freeway off ramp when I hear a loud banging noise come from under the bonnet. Pulley had come off the water pump. Got towed to RACQ service centre Sunday night to get replaced yesterday.