Fuel Tank,Fuel Pump Assembly and Swirl Pot.
Heres some pics of the inside of the fuel tank with the pump assembly fitted.
My swirl pot (not the one in the pic) was loose and floating around on the bottom of the tank so I cut open another old tank to see how it is meant to go.Ive never had fuel pickup problems either.I thought these might be handy for anyone changing their fuel pump as they can get an idea of how the pump sits in the tank and how the return hose is connected inside the tank.
Last edited by Brett_jjj; 02-05-2010 at 08:55 PM.
Real cars are steel cars.
Nice one.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Are they your legs mate? If so, I always imagined them to be a lot fatter for some insane reason!
Donating Member
Good One Brett! Why is there a worm drive hose clamp on the fuel return hose? ....has it been replaced at some stage?
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
A Memcal a Day Keeps..
nice, i never pictured the pot like that, anyway i have replaced my pump once before and i have no problems with it going down to empty before i fillup so i must have got er in right!
I noticed that.The pump must have been changed at some stage.The tank and sender are out of a burned out VR V6 (stolen) which I bought ,the interior was the only thing that got burned before the firies got there and put it out.The tank was a bit rusty at the bottom so I thought Id check out the inside and how the pump is meant to sit.I always thought the pump didnt sit in the swirl pot because when I replaced my fuel pump before, the swirl pot was sitting right at the rear of the tank.I ended up finding that it was just floating around on the bottom of the tank,it had come unstuck from the bottom of the tank.I ended up replacing the tank with one that had a good swirl pot and I just used my pump and assembly.I dont know how it never had fuel pickup problems,It would run down to the last few litres easily,it never played up once.Originally Posted by hako
can you remove the pump when its still under the car mate ,got to change mine
Yes ,the only thing I found was it was a bit hard to get the pump out over the panhard rod.(NON IRS).All I did was get a mate to lift the car at the back a bit which gave me enough clearance to get it out.And also watch the return line inside the tank (see photo),dont break it off at the swirl pot.There should be a quick connector at the pump assembly end of the return line which is where you have to undo it.
ta mate, give it a go tomorrow.
Let us know how you go.If you run into any problems give us a yell.
My car let me down yesterday by stalling at the lights and not starting again and the tank was a little under 1/4.... pushed the car until I got sick of it and the ground was more level got it going for a short time again and drove it to the servo but it stopped again but this time 10 feet from the fuel pump at the servo....it started after a couple of attempts for long enough to get it to the pump so I filled it up and now its runs fine ...Im assuming its a broken return line and I want to fix it soon. I do everything on my car myself and have fixed fuel line leaks at the tank before using solder and normal soldering iron....I was thinking of taking tank out and emptying out the fuel and filling up with water and cutting open tank and fixing the hose myself and soldering it back up...anyone else done it this way?
This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain
......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday
Mate,I dont think its really worth the trouble.Id just get a second hand tank from the wreckers if the return line is broken off from the swirl pot in your tank.There was one guy on here who cut his fuel tank open to fix the return line.I dont think he had much success with it.Im pretty sure he just ended up getting a second hand tank to fit instead.
Cant believe this but my 12 yr old son has hands small enough to fit through the sender hole..he just undid the clamp and took the hose off...and replaced and did up .....took 2 mins...no welding no worries
Just found out that holden service the return hose that goes between the swirl pot and sender unit pipe and it comes complete with the connection to the sender unit pipe on it and for 15 dollars .......part number 92047898 its pre bent and the actual connection has ears that release from the side and you can do it with your fingers so you dont need any tools...much better than the old one....and the part is made in australia not turkey like the ripco version
Donating Member
There is always a simple answer to a complex problem eh! That is really "thinking outside the square" yet totally logical. Good one
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Hay I just found how to do it!!..
To replace the hose between the sender and the swirl pot inside your tank you don’t need to undo the hose clamp (you can see when you look inside your tank at the end of the hose), nor do you need to have a 12 year old son.
Simply get your long nose pliers grabe the hose and yank it out of the tank. Both the hose and a plastic conector that clips into the swirl pot come out, you can then undo the hose clamp and replace the hose back on to the plastice conector . Then guide the new hose with the plastic conector back into tanks swirl pot hole. You may need to rotate the hose once the plactic conector is in the swirl pot hole to get it to "click in"..
That's it!!
Good pictures.. Thanks
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