Help me get my VR towing ready!

[BelleJournee]

First of all it should be noted that what I know about cars can fit on the back of a postage stamp. (Okay slight exaggeration).
I've done a fair bit of googling, but thought it would be easier if I asked direct questions and got direct answers!

I had a VR a couple of years ago, no idea what towing capacity it was rated to, but I towed my horse and float (perhaps about 1500kg all up?) with it without a problem. Mind you I never took it over 80km/h in general because the front end was stuffed and it shuddered like mad.

Just a couple of days ago I picked up a VR for $500, as it needs a new fuel pump, harmonic sensor, discs machined (surprise surprise), and the gas tank looked at. Also a couple of dents and scratches.
My intention is to get it ready to be a towing car again (my current Hyundai Excel is capable of towing a wheelie bin I think).

Whilst I've got a great mechanic, he tends to have a blase attitude towards some things (nahhhhh you don't need that you'll be fine!)
However, I want to have this thing run, run well, and run for a long time. It's a march 95 series 2 VR, the engine has done about 180,000kms- was put in about 30,000kms ago, as was a new (and by new I mean secondhand) trans. V6 auto.
Whilst I understand the need for a trans cooler for towing- is there anything else I should be looking at? Ideally I'd like to be able to tow a float with BOTH my horses (roughly 2000kg), I understand if that's not acheivable, so at least 1500kg would be great!
(PS Don't know the limit of the towbar yet, haven't checked).
Also, I was considering getting the car fitted with electric brakes in case I need them in the future... However the float I currently use has hydraulic brakes. Does that affect the towing capacity?

Thanks in advance if you can give me answers I understand!!!

(And just for craps and giggles, here's the car, the trailer I picked it up on, and the two horses in question lol)

[moff_man]

basically you should be fine if the trailer is braked. which it is so its fine. for 1500kg's

hayman reece make a heavy duty tow bar if you want to go that way

also electronic brakes are a good idea if you are using them on the float. there better than hydraulic because they come on gradually like the car brakes where as the hydraulic brakes come on hard and strong.

trans cooler is a must, also holden had a deep pan trans sump for the tow bar kit which included and trans cooler, my old vr had this setup from factory.

heavy duty springs for the rear pedders etc make a good set. just beware if its IRS, its going to scrubb out the rear quicker

also depending on how much towing you do and how far you go whilst towing, it best to get the auto serviced sooner than the standard times. ie. just after a long heavy haul i would get the auto serviced, also the engine too wouldn't hurt and diff.


also check what sort of toung it has, if its a flat one with 2 bolts holding it on you might not want to go any heaver than 1500kg's big squair type draw bar, shuold be able to handle 2000kg's but check the rating on the bar its self

[BelleJournee]

Awesome thanks for the reply.

also electronic brakes are a good idea if you are using them on the float. there better than hydraulic because they come on gradually like the car brakes where as the hydraulic brakes come on hard and strong.

I agree, unfortunately I don't have much say over the float I'm borrowing for now, but will definitely get electronic brakes if I ever own one!

also holden had a deep pan trans sump for the tow bar kit which included and trans cooler, my old vr had this setup from factory.

I'm guessing this wasn't standard?

also depending on how much towing you do and how far you go whilst towing, it best to get the auto serviced sooner than the standard times. ie. just after a long heavy haul i would get the auto serviced, also the engine too wouldn't hurt and diff.

Good idea thanks. Luckily where I keep my horses is also where my mechanic is so I'm there every day always bugging him about things going wrong in my cars!

also check what sort of toung it has, if its a flat one with 2 bolts holding it on you might not want to go any heaver than 1500kg's big squair type draw bar, shuold be able to handle 2000kg's but check the rating on the bar its self

Thank you!

[Brett_jjj]

Keeping temperature out of the transmission is the main worry.Make sure you run a big trans cooler.I know a bloke who tows heavy trailers (his kids horses),and he has a huge trans cooler fitted with an electric cooling fan on the actual trans cooler itself.The fan is wired to a switch on the console.He can turn the fan on when he's towing stuff on hot days etc.He said the first transmission in the car (wagon) cooked itself,he said he paid $2500 or thereabouts for a new transmission, and he didnt want the same thing happening again to the new one,Hes had it for ages now and as far as I know its still going ,so this might be worth a try.He also has a heavy duty radiator in the car.It has extra cores (its a triple or quad core) .I think it cost a fair bit though,I cant exactly remember ,but I think he said around $500 for the radiator.

[BelleJournee]

I don't know whether my old VR had a trans cooler or anything in it (probably not) but thankfully I never had a problem with overheating. The radiator in this one was reconditioned a couple of years ago I think, hopefully with a trans cooler I'll be fine! ($500 price tag scares me... Will do it if I HAVE to haha).

[customvlcommy]

yeah probbaly best if you do get a trans cooler we killed the vr autobox with no cooler within 150 kms towing a car float and car so defiantly get a transmission cooler

[moff_man]

just have a quick look behind the front bumper. if it has the "towing kit" there will be a little trans cooler behind there easily visible sorta to one side of center. as i said before, my old vr had this kit, it must of been a dealer option. also the trans sump had a deeper pan noted by the notable bump in the pan. tow bar was also holden. the old bloke at work remembers fitting this kit back when the cars were new.

[Trikky]

1+ for the trans cooler, also keep the factory trans cooler connnected in series with the new cooler - sorry cannot remember the reason my mechanic gave me but had something to do witht he trans fluid not being too cold
If you do have IRS I can highly recommend getting some load assist airbags to assist the rear springs when towing - airbagman or polyair are both good. I am running polyair ones that I got off ebay for around $260 took a couple of hours to fit. if going electric brakes TEKONSHA ones seem to be the best as they have auto leveling(electronic sensor not pendulum for brake sensing) I have the P3 Prodigy and it works a treat with my camper trailer.
I also have the Haymen Reece towbar as they are rated to 2100KG while the medium duty ones are around 1500KG and standards are only 900KG

Hope this helps

Chris

[wraith]

If you have a live axle I have a set of Pedders springs sitting here that are specifically for towing. Got matching shocks too.

[hako]

To tow anything over 1200KG you must have the heavy duty towbar which extends to just in front of the fuel tank and can also include a body brace - if not fitted the body will stretch. (true).
If towing in hilly country you should fit electric brakes to the trailer so that you can control them from inside the car....as someone else stated, hydraulic over-ride ones are pretty jerky.
I've attached the pages on towing from the VS Owners Handbook.....they seem to go overboard but that is what they recommend.
But in reality, I'd tend to go more for an old Jap 4WD...a Landcruiser or Patrol for around $5-6000 which won't need any modification and be more reliable in the long run. Plus it'd easy to throw extra tack and all that other stuff you need with horses in the back. Do your sums first.