Heater not working in my VS
I have the the knob set to hot yet i am getting no heat even when the temp is up so what could be causing that
NEED 4 SPEED
Heater tap broken or bypassed ??
It could also be a faulty thermostat in the cooling system.If its faulty and stuck open,or if its been completely removed,the engine wont get a chance to heat up to running temp and will just run cold all the time,this also makes the heater blow cold air.This is especially so in cold weather, which is when you want to use your heater the most.
Real cars are steel cars.
Blocked heater core?
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Donating Member
With the engine warm and idling, and the heater turned on, pop the bonnet and check the heater hoses are warm/hot on both sides of the heater tap (see pix) - should be warm/hot all hoses. Another thing to check is the heater valve switch which is vacuum operated (see pix). Also with blower on, check that flaps work when you change dial from floor to demist etc.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
HAKO:
i have the same problem.
both sides the hoses in the bay and metal ones under the dash are hot but when i turn heater on its freazing cold air?
in theat photo what is the heater valve switch?
Originally Posted by TrikkBen
i did have this problem it was an easy fix.... in that first pic from hako here, the tread had fallen out of the little arm that adjusts the temp.. check that too
If you heater tap isn't faulty its the dial itself. My dad fixed mine. Only took 30mins. You can see if the dial is working from under drivers side. Do you have Climate control or standard? Does the switch get a little stuck at one point?
Donating Member
In the first pix look for the white plastic arm with the steel rod connected to it, the to the left of the bottom of the plastic arm is a black plunger thing sticking out towards the white arm....in the position that the pix is in the heater is on, but when you dial cold, the white arm swings anti-clockwise and presses the plunger in which supplies vacuum to the heater switch and turns it off.
But if the pipes are hot it means coolant is flowing thru the heater....so that means you possibly have a problem with the vacuum operated flaps which direct blower air thru the heater so it gets hot.
See if the flaps are working - immediately after you switch the engine off, rotate the mode dial from floor to demist etc slowly - you should hear the flaps opening/closing as you change the setting - there should be enough vacuum left to do this a few times. If nothing happens you may have no vacuum or a line is off.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
thanks for the info guys ill have a look tomorrow
In my VP it was just the medal rod described above, slipping thru the thread in the coupling, so a $1 investment at the local wreckers fixed it, with a new plastic coupling
when i change between demister and floor i hear the flaps opening as such all the time. it appear to be working fine just no heat?
Donating Member
OK - so if both the brass tubes in the first pix I posted are hot, the hot coolant must be circulating thru the heater matrix....can you confirm both tubes are hot?when i change between demister and floor i hear the flaps opening as such all the time. it appear to be working fine just no heat?
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
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