vr - no spark
what might cause a vr commodore to loose spark but not report a fault code...?
not sure if it would make a difference but its duel fuel as well....
Alloytec Racing
no spark plugs? is this a trick question?
Life starts at 200km/h
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Has it got no spark on all plugs or just one that you have tested - there are 3 coils to check.
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i had a problem like that...crank angle sensor was fkd...but didnt bring up any code...go figure
replaced it ..all good now
Yeah, mine did the same thing too, and when I changed the CAS, I found 2 days later that the faulty CAS can burn out the Ignition module, which of course, in my case it did, so i then had to change that! GD!! It never rains, but it pours sometimes! (LOL)Originally Posted by Alan22008
i tested one lead from every coil pack and none had a spark, how hard is it to change the crank angle sensor and how is it done....?
no spark could be the DFI module under the coil packs . in the gregorys book it tells you how to check the DFI module with a test light , they are only a few dollars . check the DFI module b4 you do the crank angle sensor, can save you a bit of money and drama.
is there any diagrams on this site to show me instead of buying the book?
also, would a vn s2 crank angle sensor work in a 94 vr?
do a forum search , " how to test DFI module on v6 engine ".
i changed the dfi module ans coil packs and still no spark which makes me think its the crank angle sensor.... what kind of puller tool is the best to buy to remove the harmonic balancer?
You can test the CAS before guessing if you want to. There will be a power and an earth, then the two signal wires which will switch a test lamp connected to power on and off as the crankshaft pulley is rotated by hand. I don't remember the colurs off the top of my head but I've posted them before and there is at least one wiring diagram accessible online. I don't think th colours have changed from VN-VY.
The puller to drag the pulley off of the crankshaft doesn't have to be anything special; one of the generic Y shaped pullers will do. You will need three bolts to screw into the pulley though. Not sure of the thread - someone will know on here I'm sure.
Push against the bolt screwed into the front of the crank rather than the crank directly, unscrewing the bolt as you go.
To hold the pulley while unscrewing/re-tightening the centre bolt you should have available a suitable tool that fits into the slots in the pulley and rests against the chassis rail. At some point someone posted up a pic of a homemade one that will take only a few minutes to construct from two bolts, 4 nuts and some 50mm X 6 or 8mm thick flat steel (= search. Sorry). Pad the end that rests against the chassis rail with some wadded up cloth. (Mine are welded but the simpler design only needs a hacksaw and drill.)
Before refitting the pulley, clean the old sealant from the keyway and apply some fresh silicon sealant. Otherwise this a leak path for the oil in the engine. While the pulley is off, replacing the oil seal in the front cover doesn't cost much.
Mark the position of the centre bolt with paint before removal and match the marks up again to get the bolt torque correct (assuming that you can get within one turn by feel - most people can).
This would be a timely reminder of why it is important to focus as much on tightening the crank bolt as on loosening it:
Engine & fuel engineering - Crankshaft/timing belt pulley interface
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