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Thread: VS Ignition barrel problems!

  1. #1
    HamaTime™'s Avatar
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    Default VS Ignition barrel problems!

    Went outside my house to start my VS this arvo, turned the ignition on to start the motor, nothing, didn't even crank.

    There was a clicking noise, and then I turned it back to 'OFF' and then tried to start it again, and it went onto full accessories (battery and everything) but no cranking or anything and then the key just went limp, now the key can go back and forth, no clicking, and it's stuck on accessories. So I had to take the Negative terminal off the battery to keep it off.

    I'm thinking this will just be the ignition barrel/coil but wondering if anyone could suggest anything else.

    No doubt it will be a tow job to the mechanics to get it fixed...

    Any other suggestions?
    1997 VS II - S

    Stage II Auto: Pacemakers & 2.25 Hi Flo: VT Brakes: Lowered: Spaced & Insulated




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    It sounds like the end that goes into the ignition switch has broken off the barrel.
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    Quote Originally Posted by accentstencil View Post
    It sounds like the end that goes into the ignition switch has broken off the barrel.
    Sounds bout right. Pop the plastic surrounds off from around the steering wheel and sus it out.

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    +1 to the part that goes into the switch has broken off. common problem.

    you can start it and drive it if you take off the steering column surrounds, and remove the switch from the barrel.
    with the key in the barrel in the on position, you can use a screwdriver to turn the switch, so you can drive to locksmiths.

    or you can remove barrel yourself, go to locksmith, and get a new one coded (or code yourself) and refit.
    i'd suggest you get a new switch aswell, because the ends seem to snap off the barrel when the switch gets a little stiff.
    try holden, but there seems to be a shortage of them at the moment, called all the dealers yesterday trying to find one, so repco helped me out there.

  5. #5
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    Ok so now that the problem has been identified, I might just get it towed to my mechanic to deal with it, since I work 6 days a week...might be less of a hassle. Might be a better idea to just get a whole new ignition barrel aye? Does that mean new keys? or can it all be programmed up to the one key?
    1997 VS II - S

    Stage II Auto: Pacemakers & 2.25 Hi Flo: VT Brakes: Lowered: Spaced & Insulated




  6. #6
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    you can remove the switch from the rear of the housing and turn it bye a screwdriver as long as the key is on and the steering lock is off you will be fine.

    a screw or 2 holds the black ignition switch in place.
    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Savage (mythbusters)
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    the barrel can can coded to your current key.

    i'd get your mechanic to fit a new barrel and a switch if he can get one. do it all while its apart.

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    I had a Vs once and the tab broke off the back of the ignition switch.Pulled the start relay out,bridged across the 30/87 terminals and the thing started so i could go get a new ignition barrel.

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    All good, got it fixed by a mobile Locksmith for $210, bit of a rip but for peace of mind it was easier since I work alot.

    However, the guy who did it somehow managed to break my bonnet in someway...The lever down the bottom right of the kick panel is still connected to the cord though it doesn't release the bonnet, which now sits up higher on the right and is not level.

    ****ING FURIOUS!!!!!!!

    Ring them up tomorrow and get them to fix that as well..
    1997 VS II - S

    Stage II Auto: Pacemakers & 2.25 Hi Flo: VT Brakes: Lowered: Spaced & Insulated




  10. #10
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    hahahaha he must if left a screw driver or spanner on the rail where the bonit closes on. this is why it wont open. genital push while operating the leaver should get it open
    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Savage (mythbusters)
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