Hi,
Have put in a 2nd/h CAS 12 mths ago. it starts and idles ok. No longer needs to be cool to start it.
But after having the trans light come on and off intermittently since I replaced the transmission leaking gasket, filter ect. I always kept topping it up ok b4.
Now when I get to 80 odd km's and need to put the foot down ~~~the car goes nowhere & it shakes and shudders but never stalls.
Any suggestions as I dont want to go and just pull apart things from what I have read when they may not be needed.
If the trans light is coming on it should leave a fault code which should give you an idea:Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)
My guess, FWIW, is that the oil is overheating due to worn clutches causing the trans light.....but a codes check should indicate. Good Luck.
PS...that's a good mileage!
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Sounds like spark is breaking down. Check your plugs and leads for corrosion or melted spark plug electrodes.
And what the hell are using a second hand CAS for? Its a fifty buck part, get a new OEM one.
yep definetytl get a new OEM one it was my problem as well so hopefully can help you
I'm on to it, I have changed the plugs now I think I need to trace the spark back down the lines to check the coil pack then to the cas thanks fella's,
just to put this out there is your dip stick in your trans rusty? mine was on long trip the oil was boiling the stupid radiator was leaking into the trans new radiator and trany cooler fixed it
No the dip stick is ok, Its all making me to want to go for a manual conversion if that can be done. The car itself is in good nick, such a waste. Thanks Leigh
Can I ask How much for the tranny radiator and cooler did you pay? new or 2nd hd
I think youve got the problem with the converter, cause lock up clutches inside the converter could be worn out or damage thats why the car shake, vibrates when it reaches 80 plus or something..
Well I checked all the electric's, took it up the highway and Wham. Smoke evrywhere, trannyfluid all over the place. Hoses from the radiator changed yesterday. So when I manage to get it home I' hope its a broken line which may have been loosing fluid. OR its a new tranny~~~~i'll keep you posted.
Update, replaced 18yr old trans cooler hoses, new spark leads along with the previous plugs & new Cas and she still shakes and shudders up the 45 degree incline & now does it on the down and flat road to home. Going to the auto elect tomorrow as I concede defeat... and now the radiator leaks auto fluid so now in 4 an auto cooler install aswell..
ps i got these amp readings from the coil pack's
1. -711
2. +799
3. -697
4. +812
5. -719
6. +738 are these useless atempt at a multimeter reading or does it indicate something.?? Any suggestions welcome Thanks Russell
If you want to save money, just buy a 2nd hand DFI module with the coils - either from a wrecker or on Ebay.....brand new on Ebay for $188 posted (DFI + coils)....a wrecker should be about $100. Re the leaking trans cooler - for less than $100 (or thereabouts) you can buy a brand new radiator with a brand new trans cooler inside it on Ebay...just like the factory installed 16 years ago.
If your in-rad trans cooler is leaking, you can bet your bottom dollar the rest of the radiator is also stuffed.
Auto elecs charge about $80 per hour. If coolant has been leaking into the trans, the clutches will eventually fail unless you are very lucky.
To measure the coils, put the meter on resistance and measure each coil after you remove it - there are 3.
Edit....hate to say this, but Commodores are a dime a dozen and you can pick up something reasonable for under $2000....possibly a lot cheaper if you shop around....just a thought.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Hako, your advice please?? i changed the coil pack with a another mates 2nd hand pack and this is what i got.
A what ever speed I got to when I took my foot off the pedal there was no deceleration. When I put it into park it reved out to over 3000k.
Going up a hill I got the speed up to 100km's (better) but still a slight shudder in the gear lever and thru the steering wheel.
No error codes ecept 12.
Would this mean to clean the throttle body as I have read elswhere??
thanks mate
sounds like throttle cable is stuck, does the peddle travel in and out normally?
I'd go with what The1 says re cable sticking. I'd also clean the throttle body which may be causing the throttle to stick if it's extra dirty and I'd reckon after half a million K's I'd be dirty too. Cleaning the TB can be as easy as spraying a can of TB/carby cleaner in the opening. I'd also add a can of transmission treatment...the stuff that stops leaks and shuddering...it only costs about $15 and can improve things (but not always). The shudders in the steering wheel/gear lever may be a wheel slightly out of balance.
At your mileage, I'd be using every shortcut available to lengthen my life.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
I cleaned the throttle body, reassembled and the revs are fine. I have to re seat the throttle sensor as I get code 22 tps low voltage. I am hoping this will stop the transmission light from staying on and not changing gears correctly. I will also get some of that tranny addative when the shops open t/m
many thanks for your advice