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Thread: vr ss v8 185kw stalling (have fault codes) need help

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    Default vr ss v8 185kw stalling (have fault codes) need help

    hey guys,

    as i said i have vr ss v8 185kw spec
    its auto with stage 2 shift kit

    the car stalls on me while im trying to drive from shifting it from park to drive.
    and sometimes does it while im comming to a traffic light stop and when complete stop it stalls

    i did the fault code check and wondering if anyone can help as to what i can do to fix these codes comming up.
    code 24 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - Fault - Auto Transmission Only
    Code 31 - Theft Deterrent Signal Missing
    Code 35 - Idle Speed error

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    iac error the other 2 codes seem to be normal in the vr vs, i keep geeting them with no error.

    clean out the t/b and see how you go
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    you more than likely need a new throtle posion sensor had same on mine couple years ago. its the black plastic half circlish thing on your throttle body. if you get your multimeter and back probe the wires it should read 5v as that is the idle voltage setting. from memory it should be counter sunk a little to pre set the position but i had to elongate my holes a little when i changed my throttlebody so i could get the required movement for the voltage. as you move it one way in a nut shell might not be right but this is how i think of it as you twist more one way spring gets wound tighter more voltage the other way less tension there fore less voltage or vice versa but im sure you get the pic.

    1 paid about 35 bucks for it and was very easy simple and quick job. mate had it done on his and paid bigs dollars from theiving con man. hope this helps

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    Quote Originally Posted by dans1981 View Post
    you more than likely need a new throtle posion sensor had same on mine couple years ago. its the black plastic half circlish thing on your throttle body. if you get your multimeter and back probe the wires it should read 5v as that is the idle voltage setting. from memory it should be counter sunk a little to pre set the position but i had to elongate my holes a little when i changed my throttlebody so i could get the required movement for the voltage. as you move it one way in a nut shell might not be right but this is how i think of it as you twist more one way spring gets wound tighter more voltage the other way less tension there fore less voltage or vice versa but im sure you get the pic.

    1 paid about 35 bucks for it and was very easy simple and quick job. mate had it done on his and paid bigs dollars from theiving con man. hope this helps
    if its the tps thats faulty then shouldnt it come up on the fault checking
    Code 21 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Voltage Too High - Auto Transmission Only
    Code 22 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Voltage Too Low - Auto Transmission Only

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    That seems odd to check the TPS given the codes??? I would be looking at clearing the error codes first, then go for a drive till it plays up and check them again and see what a fresh batch brings in. It could well be the TPS but the codes dont lead me to beleive that.
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    Quote Originally Posted by VrWagz1 View Post
    That seems odd to check the TPS given the codes??? I would be looking at clearing the error codes first, then go for a drive till it plays up and check them again and see what a fresh batch brings in. It could well be the TPS but the codes dont lead me to beleive that.
    thats a good idea..
    too clear the ecu with the codes do i disconnect the battery for awhle and it should clear it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dans1981 View Post
    you more than likely need a new throtle posion sensor had same on mine couple years ago. its the black plastic half circlish thing on your throttle body. if you get your multimeter and back probe the wires it should read 5v as that is the idle voltage setting. from memory it should be counter sunk a little to pre set the position but i had to elongate my holes a little when i changed my throttlebody so i could get the required movement for the voltage. as you move it one way in a nut shell might not be right but this is how i think of it as you twist more one way spring gets wound tighter more voltage the other way less tension there fore less voltage or vice versa but im sure you get the pic.

    1 paid about 35 bucks for it and was very easy simple and quick job. mate had it done on his and paid bigs dollars from theiving con man. hope this helps
    Are you sure that it's 5v with the throttle closed? It should be closer to 1v or a little below, rising to nearly 5V at WOT. There is a reference voltage to the TPS that is ~5V...

    The TPS closed throttle voltage is relearned at each start so no adjustment should be needed.

    After the fault codes are cleared I'd expect the speed sensor code to reappear.

    Clearing the codes is most easily done by removing the fusible link for the PCM, in the engine bay, the one closest to the passenger side. For ~10 seconds. Don't lose radio codes that way.

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    As above^^^^^ for clearing the codes. At worst if you cant find the fuse, lift one of the battery terminals for 10sec. But as above you will lose all your radio presets.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    Quote Originally Posted by VrWagz1 View Post
    As above^^^^^ for clearing the codes. At worst if you cant find the fuse, lift one of the battery terminals for 10sec. But as above you will lose all your radio presets.
    hey guys i did a ecu reset and took it for 15min drive and it didnt stall on me..
    and when i got home did diagnostic check and got the code 12 for no errors

    can anyone enlighten me on this finding..

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    My comment to this is only, i know with the mitsubishi tritons(late model's) when they get clogged with umpdeen codes, they run crap and stall. I'm almost certain the ecu's in comoodores dont do this.....but maybe they do. Not to say that your not gonna start the car in the morning and it will play up either if there really is a problem. Let it develop and see what happens.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    hi all
    after couple weeks the fault has come back but not as frequent as before.. so do u think its worth while to swap the IAC valve?


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