VR Fuel and Ignition Problems
Hi folks,
I've had the fuel pump in my VR replaced about 5 months ago, and recently had my tank replaced (as the patch that was on it (there when I got the car) was leaking through a crack, and hemoraging fuel). Friday night, I picked my wife up from work; and the car sat (off) at home for about half an hour. I went to start it to head back into town (we live abt 15min out of town), and the car tried to crank - with 2 tries at starting. After that, the car wouldn't even attempt to start - though turning the key clearly made the voltage drop, as everything dimmed (or seemed to go off) while "trying" to start the car. Since the car wasn't even attempting to crank, I checked ALL the fuses & relays! It kept popping 20A Engine fuses, and 15A Fuel Pump fuses.
Today, my father and I replaced the fuel pump, which made no difference - still popped fuses. However, after disconnecting the fuel pump loom from the pump (at the pump), the car stopped popping fuses, and even TRIED to crank (without success because of the lack of fuel from no fuel pump).
We know BOTH fuel pumps ARE in working order, so I am now confused as to where the problem is - though I'm sure it has to be somewhere in the wiring.
Another piece of information (unsure as to it's usefulness) is that my wife tells me she smelt something burning shortly after picking her up from work. This was apparently on (or just) a roundabout in town (around the time I gave the car a bit of 'the boot' - after an IDIOT on the road making me rather GRRRR.... *I stayed within the law though - only booted it to 50km/h).
The car is a VR Acclaim Series II (converted to a Borg Warner T5 manual - though this shouldn't have any bearing on the issue mentioned above). The car has also had the tank replaced (with a VP tank - same basic tank).
Can anyone tell me where to look for this problem, the difficulty I should expect, and any solutions???
(I'm a bit clued on electricals, but, hate pulling things apart to get to other things).
* Further information (as of today) *
One of my father's mates, who is an auto-elec said to run the fuel pump from the park lights. We have done that, and now the 20A Engine fuse pops AFTER trying to start. Please note that it DOES NOT pop when trying to crank the car.
*End of (today's new) Information *
I'm really beginning to wonder if it is the starter motor after all... as BOTH fuel pumps have been tested 'working' today!!!
Opinions please.... I need ideas on what it could be...
Last edited by Ghosty85; 14-07-2010 at 11:19 PM.
The car itself has done roughly 235,000km. The motor is from a car that had done only about 128,000. Not sure about the engine loom though - and it's not the original, as it's a manual chip & loom in an Acclaim.
not usual for a starter motor to pack up at 128,000k's is it? i'd check the wiring, either grounding somewhere or it doesn't like that engine loom i reckon. or temporarily try the original computer?
I don't have the original computer! =( And it wouldn't fit anyways - as the original is an auto computer, and I only have the manual loom. The auto went a while back.
oh i thought you just did a computer swap. if it's been like for ages should be alright. i'd definately be checking the wiring for grounding on the metal somewhere mate
My little brother (who works at a local wrecking yard) has said to me today to replace the oil pressure switch. Could this stupid little thing be the problem???
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a faulty switch could be stopping the fuel pump from priming, but you'll still be blowing fuses till you find the short. Cant imagine the oil pressure switch would be causing the engine fuse to pop.Originally Posted by Ghosty85
I think also that it would still crank with a busted switch, just not fire? See if the starter solenoid is rooted or shorting out somewhere round there after you replace the oil pressure switch.
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It will be easy to check the switch; simply unplug the wiring connector to it. It switches in parallel to the fuel pump relay so the car will, without any other faults, start with it disconnected.
yea give it a try and see if it starts, i'd say you'll be blowing fuses still though. is it possible one of the wires to the fuel pump disconnected and is floating around in the petrol? i'm sure that'd blow a fuse. (if you can't find it grounding on the metal somewhere) not nice getting in there.
Nah, not the fuel pump wires - we replaced the new pump with an older (VP) one - and the wires were on there quite firmly. The pump works - I know, I FLATTENED my 600A JumpStart battery pack using it as a power supply for it (fused at 15A of course).
We figured it wasn't the alternator as well, as the car ran both with & without it 'hooked up' (though it was only run momentarily without any of the wires, and without the fan-belt). The alternator is a bit weak (at 13.55v), so I think I'll go back to my original VR alternator (which I might add, looks BETTER! lol).
The car did crank, and did eventually fire up - though one of the first things was to disconnect the oil pressure switch (suspected offender - and a $22 replacement is on hand, with the car at an auto-'sparky' - a friend of my father's).
I'll be glad to go back to driving the beast!!! =) I've had enough of driving my old little MH (Barina)... (don't ask... please! lol). It's great to be able to have to be careful all the time again, for fear of shreading the tires... lol hahaha!
So guys, a BIG thankyou to those who have contributed - regardless of whether it has been 'fruitful' or not... I can't say 'helpful', as everyone has said about something to look for/at, that I would not have thought to've done. =) A special thanks to Markovr for the specific parts of the wiring schematics for it. It has helped alot (even with my limited understanding of those particular schematic drawing methods used by Holden?).
Just to give the thumbs up (AGAIN) here - I had a VT/VX (V8) behind me on the way home from town. All he could do to 100km/h was keep up - he certainly wasn't catching up!!! LOL
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