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Thread: slight hesitation up to 3000rpm then smooths out...??

  1. #1
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    Default slight hesitation up to 3000rpm then smooths out...??

    I have had this problem for a while now, and im running out of ideas

    the car (vs calais v6) hesitates slightly off the lights up to around 3000rpm, then smooths out

    have changed plugs, coils, o2 sensors, cleaned maf, throttle, plenum, changed filters,
    and still does the same thing!

    i dont understand why it stops stuttering after 3000rpm... this makes me think its got to do with the electronic injection side of things,
    but i could be wrong.

    any ideas are appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Just a long shot but what state is the harmonic balancer in ? is it wobly ?
    The 3000 revs might just be the point where the load on the engine reduces enough to make the problem unnoticeable. If you power up a steep hill is the problem worse?

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    Quote Originally Posted by greenacc View Post
    Just a long shot but what state is the harmonic balancer in ? is it wobly ?
    The 3000 revs might just be the point where the load on the engine reduces enough to make the problem unnoticeable. If you power up a steep hill is the problem worse?
    hi mate, the harmonic balancer runs straight, rubber looks good...

    the hesitation is sort of the same uphill or on a straight

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    Checked error codes ? I always got code 47 when i had issues like that, always turned out to be coils or DFI. DFI's are expensive unless you go to a wrecker.

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    What's your driving style like?

    Dad's VR had this problem from new. Holden's advice, "let your son drive it once a week". It was used for short runs, little to no highway use and on regular unleaded which was blocking the fuel injectors. Once he got a bit heavier on the accelorator and his daily drive changed to mainly high speed highway stuff it all went away. In those first few years of owning the car we used to use injector cleaner regularly which would fix it for a few tanks but it always came back.

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    hehe, thanks mate, but ye i drive her abit hard on occasions... and do put an injector cleaner through before i do a fuel filter

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny_V View Post
    What's your driving style like?

    Dad's VR had this problem from new. Holden's advice, "let your son drive it once a week". It was used for short runs, little to no highway use and on regular unleaded which was blocking the fuel injectors. Once he got a bit heavier on the accelorator and his daily drive changed to mainly high speed highway stuff it all went away. In those first few years of owning the car we used to use injector cleaner regularly which would fix it for a few tanks but it always came back.

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    Well, if it's breaking down under load it could be the DFI module, faulty coil pack!, injectors need a major clean or maybe even a faulty PCM? who knows. I'd try the DFI module first then the injectors. May even pay to replace them or take them out and get them professionally done.

    Regards!

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    Quote Originally Posted by admir87 View Post
    anyone with any ideas?
    Hey admir87,

    My VR had a similar problem a few months back, got to 3,5000RPM and cut out. It turned out to be a fuel injector that had poped out since the new engine was put in. Have you tried replacing them? mine cost me $40. Not sure if you mentioned it earlier, not to savy with the technical terms. :B

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    Id be swapping each coil (one at a time) with a known working one,and drive it each time to see if there is any difference.Ive seen these coils show up ok on a multimeter, but still cause misfiring,so just checking each coils resistance with a multimeter is not a guarantee that the coil is not faulty.I got caught out like this years ago with one,and spent hours looking for a problem that I should have found straight away if it showed up on a multimeter.So nowdays I keep a brand new coil handy,just for this purpose.Most misfiring problems Ive found on the V6's (if the plugs and leads are new and have been replaced) is one of the coils breaking down under load.Id try another one in each of the 3 positions first,just so you can rule them out.If your coils have the white cylinder numbers on them,then they are likely to be the original coils still.They are now pushing 15 years old or thereabouts.New coils dont have the cylinder numbers marked on them.I also think that its best to replace all 3 coils at once if one is found to be faulty.They seem to loose some of their performance over time as they get older,which I found effects starting,running,performance and fuel economy.And try to only use genuine holden coils, or a quality brand name coil like MSD.

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