I recently just changed my single spinner factory diff to a 3.45:1 LSD IRS diff.
The guy I took it too claimed that he plugged all plugs and mounted the clips or (plugs) to the diff.
The ABS off is now stuck on and I believe he may have stuffed something up in the process, has anyone come accross this problem?
He also claims that because the diff ratio's are different I need to wait untill the it settles in, I believe they took the easy way out.
I asked for the fix, and the proclaimed mechanics I took it too, stated the only thing they could to is install the old diff which was heavily damaged or wait.
Any advice please?
Cheers,
Andy
Hey man,
Check this out, should be of some help.
ABS Error Codes
In addition to checking the ABS codes, try removing the negative battery lead for 30 seconds then reconnecting - this may clear the code.
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Did they replace the entire rear axle assembly of just the centre?
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Could be a dirt or moisture on the sensor its not an uncommon problem
Yeah mate could be, I should really get it checked out from a pro in terms of the codes, running low on DIY time.
If they just replaced the centre and it was working when it went in, then it should work when it went out.
What you described in the first post, regarding what they told you, is the sort of attitude that gives the industry a bad name.
I would be like a dog with a bone with this until it's fixed.
IMO they have stuffed it up.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Yes.
The ABS sensors measure wheel speed. The diff. ratio doesn't alter the wheel speed at all only the relationship between wheel speed and driveshaft speed.
There is no need for a "settling in" period; it either works or it doesn't.
To be clear, swapping the diff. centre means swapping the gears only into your old diff. housing. If the whole assembly was swapped, it's possible that the sensors on the axle flanges are damaged eg. chipped or it's possible that there is different tooth count on some models if the assembly came complete from a donor car (not up on whether that's a potential problem).
Makes sense worried now, because he may have damaged something in the process.
It was a whole different diff from another car with a recoed centre, and he changed the 2 plugs that are on top on both sides of the diff centre, and it seems ok "physically" I mean it looks plugged in properly no loose plugs etc..
I don't really want to deal with them, and for reselling purposes later down the track I wouldn't mind it fixed.
All reasons have a potential of being the issue, in which I am worried with.
I wouldn't mind knowing what it could be, Ill do a reset on the battery first, ill then see if I can do a ABS test and see what error code comes up, other than that, if no go, Ill take it to a diff (diff central or preston diffs or raceshift) heard they are all decent/good, and see if they can check out any mechanical malfunctions with the diff, to exploit any damage to the axels not find out why my ABS is not working, this would uncover however, some reasons why it does not read anymore.
Sad these people do exist in the trade, once a mate and someone you could trust to blatently lie and just get you out is why the mechanic industry is failing.
Also, thanks to all of you that have contributed to this problem, all suggestions are all appreciated and taken under deep consideration.
If it was a complete changeover housing I wonder if they used the correct axles?
The axles have a tone wheel that is read by the sensors on the axle housing.
ABS is a great saftey feature, I recommend you get it fixed. If the warning lamp is on then the system will not work and has already logged codes.
You have paid good money to these people, why should they get away with providing shoddy workmanship?
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
That's what I was getting at with the tooth count. For Cashaz, they are the gold coloured toothed wheels either side of the diff. housing. The teeth should be nice and square.If it was a complete changeover housing I wonder if they used the correct axles?
The axles have a tone wheel that is read by the sensors on the axle housing.
The air gap between the teeth and the sensors is important also - I think that it's 0.2-1.2mm - and the sensors should be square to and directly over the teeth.
The sensors should be free from any build up of magnetic rocks or iron filings.
Ha, just realised it's an IRS unit.
As above, I would still be looking at a tone wheel/sensor fault.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?