I have just bought a vr commodore through word of mouth. It drives really well except that it won't change into 3rd gear. Every other gear does what it ought to do but it just refuses to change up (or is it down) to 3rd.. (and then i spose there is 4th but i haven't got that far.)
I also need to get a RWC so i can register it in my name. Anyone know of a fair and cheap authorised mechanic in the eastern subs of melbourne?
Ex husband is a mechanic and completely invisible when i mention cars, (is also currently in NZ so no help from that quarter).
I really don't think it is completely hopeless, thought one of you knowledgeable commodore owners may be able to point me in the right direction??
Cannot help re RWC, but re the auto - when you drive at 60 Kph in D, is the engine revving high or what. Also how do you know it is not going into 3rd - reason for asking is that it can miss gears on upshift or downshift plus the actual gear changes can be difficult to detect.
And welcome to the forum.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
you have a good point there.. i only assume it is not 3rd as i am looking at it sequentially... after 1st i expect 2nd etc. I did try doing it via the 1,2, 3 gear changes but it still only made 2 changes. It doesnt seem to be struggling.. (i hae been driving it like my mothers sad old volvo that i have retired to get this car) so that may be because of my meek driving, when i accelerate at about 50kmh it does sound like its revving in neutral though. I used to drive a cab about 18 yrs ago and i have driven cars with muuch sicker sounding gearboxes than this.. it just seems to have this major hiccup changing into 'a' third gear. At least the kelpie is not ashamed to go out in public with me anymore, he was very self conscious about being seen in a volvo![]()
Nothing wrong with Volvo's as long as you wear a hat. Re the auto, it may rev at 50kph with the pedal down if it shifts back a gear. I'd check the auto fluid for colour - it should be pink...if brown or foamy that is a bad sign. Also you could check it to see if the level is OK, if low it can cause slippage etc. To check, simply park on a level surface, leave engine running and in park, then pop the bonnet and see what the dipstick says. If it's low add some Dexron 3 down the dipstick hole.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
ex number 2 had a look at that the other day and said the colour, state and quantity of the auto fluid was good, in fact i decided the car must be pretty good because he struggled to find something to criticise about italso a boy racer friend of my eldest daughter (who is a brake mechanic.. the friend not the daughter) did not consider there was anything wrong with the auto and told me it wouldn't normally change until it was doing about 80 kmh... however i dont agree.. it really wants to change and he was hung over (or possibly still drunk). It was kind of him to check it out for me so i didn't argue. ex number 2 loves to know everything about nothing useful however so i will check it out myself tomorrow just in case..
Might also pay to check for error codes - all you need is a paper clip and about 5 minutes - instructions are: Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)
Don't look too hard for faults!
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
considered shift solenoids? sometimes when a shift solenoid packs it in it may feel like it is slipping but it isnt really, and sometimes it mightn't even change at all.
Worth a look id say![]()
opps wont do that again
well today i checked the error codes and the auto fluid... no revelations with the error codes and after a gazillion years looking for a paper clip i settled for the springy thing on a clothespeg which did the same thing... (with 4 kids (3 girls) i use lots of clothespegs). The auto fluid was good in quantity but grim in quality (brown and foamy). I called in at a auto place and the guy there took it for a drive, told me he thinks a clutch has gone... i know i sound like a dag but i thought clutches were only something i had to worry about in a manual. He quoted 950 for a reco one fitted, i spose you have to have a lot of tools and knowledge to do it yourself?
Should not be brown, I suggest getting the auto serviced.
If they can do it for $950 I'd say go for it. A really smart home mechanic may try to overhaul an auto, but I haven't met one yet. Maybe it's black magic, but whatever hex is on it, it sure is powerful. Auto's have clutch packs....multiple clutch discs immersed in oil.
When I suggested to check for error codes with the paperclip I thought that maybe you could use a bobby pin, but thought that too sexist! I've got 4 daughters and 3 sons (and 15 g'kids) so I know all about clothes pegs. Hopefully the mech who does the auto can do the RWC. Good Luck.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
thanks for your help... i thought the price was fair but i had nothing to compare it with. He also mentioned that you could smell it.. sniffed at the dipstick... i wonder if he knows its going to rain before it does... he had that look of all knowingness about everything, maybe thats why the price... praps he could tell that was my limit![]()
not hard to fit one yourself.... recoment a gearbox jig on a jack so u dont drop it on yourself... just need a few tools to undo some bolts and starter motor also need to remove the y-pipe (exhaust part) to drop the box also remove the tailshaft to. Hope this helps![]()
opps wont do that again