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Thread: Vr ss

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    Default Vr ss

    hey looking at buying a VR SS any problems i should know about? what should i look for? thanks

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    VR SS, VY 2 CALAIS

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    I've had mine for about 11 years now and I still love it. The only major problem i had was the diff. It got noisey over time to the point where I had to have the centre rebuilt. I don't thrash my car and the diff guy says it's a problem relating to the LSD centres.

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    Biggest issue you will most probably encounter is old nuts and bolts that make a simple task extremely paintful!

    Has VR SS for a while now and no major issues other than it getting stolen and flogged hard! Even after a flogging, the engine seems sweet.

    Did have rust in the spare tyre well in the boot that is appearantly fairly common! Other than that they are still a good solid car if you find a good one! Good Luck

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    Prob 3k (poor condition) to 6k (stock decent). Best bet is to buy a stock unmodified SS as they are less likely to have been thrashed. Under 150 000 is a good find.

    I payed 4k for ss with 160 000km auto (unfortunately), new stainless 3inch exhaust, CAI, Coil Blaster pack, extractors, house of colours pearlescent paint job. Tidy car that ran extremely well!

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    VrWagz1 is offline The Wagon on Wheels..
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    The usual obvious stuff like rust(especially under the spare wheel in the bowl and in the corners under the bonnet near the front window) and slightly different coloured panels depicting some sort of respray from accidents ect and tyres. Some sort of service history is good too. Check the rail around where the battery sits to make sure the acid hasnt eaten it away. Check the brake master isnt leaking. Have a look as best you can at suspension bushs, A test drive over some sharp speed bumps is a good clunk test plus given the age atleast some of the bush's should have been replaced. If no bush's have been done then you can safely assume theres possibly a few hundred dollars worth of work to be done there. Check the shocks still hold the car firm and dont let it bounce up and down when you push the car down in the corners. Engine mounts especially the passenger side. Make sure everything works inside, buttons, lights, fans, Check the heater core is ok, otherwise theres a days work to pull the dash out and replace that. Rear main seal is a biggie as its a motor out job to fix. If it has an LSD make sure its tight. Theres possibly a tonn of other things, but thats gonna get you started. Dont forget to check the coolant for oil/sludge evidence of headgasket issues and the oil is good. Check the engine bay dost look like its been degreesed to hide leaks.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

  8. #8
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    vr or vs ss is a great choice of car getting old school so its pretty slick do some work so you can blow off those pretty boys in the ve ss utes trust me lol you will make them cry just go for a drive in my mates vr 20 k under the hood he gave an f6 typhoon a mad run but beat beat it lol and a beat a worked of its tits chevy ss camaro 69 model and thats one of my personal favs aswell lol, but u cant beat the ol 5l aussie v8 is the breaks mate...

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    Quote Originally Posted by VrWagz1 View Post
    The usual obvious stuff like rust(especially under the spare wheel in the bowl and in the corners under the bonnet near the front window) and slightly different coloured panels depicting some sort of respray from accidents ect and tyres. Some sort of service history is good too. Check the rail around where the battery sits to make sure the acid hasnt eaten it away. Check the brake master isnt leaking. Have a look as best you can at suspension bushs, A test drive over some sharp speed bumps is a good clunk test plus given the age atleast some of the bush's should have been replaced. If no bush's have been done then you can safely assume theres possibly a few hundred dollars worth of work to be done there. Check the shocks still hold the car firm and dont let it bounce up and down when you push the car down in the corners. Engine mounts especially the passenger side. Make sure everything works inside, buttons, lights, fans, Check the heater core is ok, otherwise theres a days work to pull the dash out and replace that. Rear main seal is a biggie as its a motor out job to fix. If it has an LSD make sure its tight. Theres possibly a tonn of other things, but thats gonna get you started. Dont forget to check the coolant for oil/sludge evidence of headgasket issues and the oil is good. Check the engine bay dost look like its been degreesed to hide leaks.
    Check the quality of air in the tyres....... lol You would take ten hours checking out a car before ya buy it! Good suggestions tho...

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    Mate just go for a test drive in one and you will fall in love iv had mine for a year now put a full exhaust and it sounds GREAT good old aussy muscle cant beat it with a bit of work you will blow the doors of any modern commie the only down side is rust just try and get a clean low K one

  11. #11
    VrWagz1's Avatar
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    I doubt hes still pondering this issue
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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