VS Immobiliser Failure

[stuntmanmike]

Need some expert advice:

I have a terminal issue with my VS BT1 V8 and I just don’t know how to diagnose this before taking it to an auto-sparky and possibly spending big $$$. This would be a first for me not being able to fault find an automotive electrical issue. Can anyone can provide their two cents on what it could be?

It started out a few weeks ago with the starter motor not kicking over from time to time. Disconnecting/reconnecting the +ve terminal of the battery seemed to resolve this. Sometimes when the key was turned I could hear a loud click from somewhere (perhaps a switch/relay) and the interior light would not switch on and the dash lights would not come on when the ignition was switched on. Turning the key to the “ON” position didn’t do anything when this happened. Dead everything! Swapping a relay on the relay assembly (next to the battery in the engine bay) would resolve this. Sometime disconnecting/reconnecting the +ve battery terminal fixed this somehow.

Now, the car has a brand new battery to begin the defect elimination process and the starter motor worked heaps well but the engine does not kick into life. I squirted some fuel into the inlet manifold to see if this was related to the fuel system and still nothing. I now was thinking that perhaps this is ignition module/coil/distributer related? Then, a few minutes ago I heard that tell tale click from under the dash or somewhere when trying to start the engine. Now there are no lights lighting up the lower dash cluster and the starter motor doesn’t engage when the key is turned. I can hear the relays clicking twice when I move the key to the “ignition on” position but the fuel pump doesn’t whir for two seconds like it did before. I’ve tried to play with the +ve terminal of the battery and swap some of the relays for new ones. Still nothing. I’ve got a can of petrol and match to burn the car. I’m tempted…

Has anyone experienced this at all with their VS?

Surely the issue is something simple. It’s not the battery or the starter motor or the relays or fuses IMO. I reckon the key ignition barrel or factory immobiliser is rotten. The central locking works well from the key remote so perhaps the key battery is not a root cause. I hope it’s not the ECU or a short somewhere. I’ve scanned the forums, googled for it, read the Max Ellery front to back and asked the old man for advice.

If this info helps then a few days ago before the new battery I ran the engine, hit the high beams and had the engine stall as soon as the high beams lit up. Up till that point the car ran when the starter motor kicked in. Now nothing… WTF?
Sorry for the long winded blog as I am stumped on what this could be and how to fix this on my own steam. This has me absolutely baffled.

[edals]

So What i gather, The Car is trying to start as the start motor is turning correct? If the engine is turning but wont fire, i would be checking for spark and is the fuel pump working, also check ya error codes.

[BottleFedVS]

I have had this happen to me on my wifes VR calais.
The imobiliser is in the BCM (Body Control Module).
When this goes it disrupts injector pulse, spark & fuel pump.
if you do the code test for your car you will probably get a code 31 after the 3x12.
that would be "Theft Deterrent Signal Missing".
When you flicked on the high beam that time it may have given the BCM a power spike.
If that is the case you are up for a new (or second hand) BCM & at least 1 key headto suit the new BCM.
this part is still available from Holden at $330-$360.
plus the cost of a key head & programing.
They are easy to fit & are located under the dash on the drivers side behind the fuse panel.
I hope this helps you to sort it out, & yes it's not cheap.
Ive had to do it twice now, once to the wifes VR & once to my VS.

[hako]

Check the wiring connector under the ignition switch - these can get loose plus the actual ignition switch can fail and would cause similar problems to those you describe. Try and get hold of a Gregorys workshop manual as they seem to be more informative than the Ellerys - try the local library. Good Luck.

[stuntmanmike]

Thanks for the replies. I've traced the fault after reading the replies to my original thread post. There was a short somewhere between the ignition switch and ignition module. I don't know why the high beams killed the fuse at number 10 under the dash but when it was replaced with a new 7.5A fuse the starter motor would turn over. I reckon that might have been causing the immobilser to stay on as there was no signal to switch it otherwise after the 30 second window. I also found out that the current spike killed the ignition module as there was no spark at the plugs. The ignition coil and the ignition module were replaced which rectified the engine not starting issue. While I was at it the ignition coil was relocated in a more convenient location. And the Ellerys/Gregorys was helpful : )
Thanks to all of you for providing your insight into what it could be. Luckily it was something traceable and not too difficult to diagnose. Cheers!