Can someone give me a step by step picture instruction of how to tighten a steering rack end please for my holden commodore vs 1995?
and how tight am i suppose to tighten it, if this is a dumb question to ask, please say that to the guy who told me to do it, it's just for my ROAD WORTHY CERTIFICATE!!!
Would much appreciate the responses
cheers
sorry to steal the thread here abit mate
but just wondering if this could be the same problem for me as my VT wagon is leaking power steering fluid and cant find a leak anywhere so im thinking its the steering rack
sorry if this question is completely wrong still learning about engines and that lol and wanna know everything I can about them save me $$$ on mechanics
it could be the rack end itself, the bit where the rack end pivots can wear out. like old mate said above it cant be tightened but its a cheap and easy replacement. just get the lock washer out of the way before u try to take the rack end off! (assuming it is your rack end not your tie rod end)
First I'd go back to the mechanic and ask him (nicely) exactly which part he mean't needed tightening and whether he mean 'replace'. At a guess I'd say he has found a rack end worn which must be replaced, not tightened as mentioned by Andrew426. New rack ends are about $50 each - check YouTube for instructions - this is not the easiest of jobs to do but also is not rocket science. Ebay sell the rackends or a auto shop. I'd also ask how much for the mechanic to do the job....it may avoid a lot of hassles and unknowns.
Good Luck
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
I agree with hako.
You need to be 100% clear on what needs to be replaced.
Steering systems are very important with regards to saftey. If you have any doubts, the cost of a mechanic to do the work is well worth it.
Don't forget you will need a wheel alignment when the job is done.
Oh and wootown,
The rack end has nothing to do with your leak.
Most likely it's the pump.
Very common.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Grab The Front & Back Of The Front Tyres & Push & Pull... (Near Door >| ( o ) |< Near Bumper)
If It Makes A Loud Clunk & Has Movement = A New Rack IS Needed... + Oil Should Be Evident...
If It Doesn't Clunk & Has Movement = Tie-Rod Ends NEED Changing...
There Can Be Movement or Wear In The Steering Column Though & Beneath That @ The Uni-Joint... (Underneath Car, Above Steering Rack - Where It Connects To Steering Column..)
Last edited by QuickVRII95; 08-09-2010 at 06:13 AM.
To test if a balljoint has axial play in it, put a pair of multigrips on it (top and bottom) and squeeze the two parts together. If there is any noticable movement, its stuffed.
There **Are** manufacturers tolerances for axial play in ball joints, but they are generally too small to see and/or measure accurately without a dialmeter, so just assume itsbuggered if there is any movement.
I Think My Way Is Easier... If There Is Noticeable Movement In The Wheel, While On The Ground Your Tie-Rods Need Changing... Simple.. Your Wheel IS Shaking & If All Was OK, It Wouldn't... You ONLY Get Your Hands Dirty Too, Without Having To Jack The Car Up From It Driving Position & Lay Down...
The Tyre Allows Movement, Without Moving The Rack Unless The Rack IS Stuffed & It Makes A Loud Clunk...
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux