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Thread: 2nd spigot bush in 6 months WTF

  1. #1
    Beno1982 is offline Beno
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    Default 2nd spigot bush in 6 months WTF

    i replaced the spigot bush in my car 6 months ago when i done the conversion, couple days ago i went for a drive and it has started making that annoying whistling noise again

    i have climbed under the car and noticed i have a broken engine mount on passengers side could this be the cause of the problem or do you think it may be something else.

    another prob i have experienced is there seem to be a bit of vibration in the clutch fork what could cause this

    I thinking bushes on the fork or the clip may be buggered and need replacing.

    Any help would be great

    Thanks in advance

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    RX25SE is offline Real cars are steel cars.
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    Check that the engine, bellhousing and transmission are correctly aligned. (ie. wire/hose jammed in bell housing)

    Misalignment will cause all sorts of clutch issues.
    If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?

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    Beno1982 is offline Beno
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    I hope this is isn't the case as i paid mechanic good $$$ to fix this the first time don't really want to go in there causing a disturbance and turn out it has something to do with the engine mount, i know this is broken, and possibally this could have put the engine out of alignment to cause my clutch issues.

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    Did you align the clutch with an alignment tool(re;vibration??)-start with basics-check engine mounts,gearbox mount,has tailshaft throw a balance?maybe the throwout bearing is going(if the manuals have one,or is it a concentric slave cylinder setup??)i can't see why it's going thru the spigots,unless they aren't greasing them or something,only thing i can really think of if is if the gearbox is not sitting flush on the back of the motor
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    Beno1982 is offline Beno
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    All the work was done at a mechanics here in town so i hope they aligned it properly.

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    Beno1982 is offline Beno
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    the throw out bearing was all replaced six months ago when i got a new clutch kit put in it and the spigot bush, very strange i never seen this before

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    Dusty_vs is offline your resident mechanic
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    A clutch alignment tool is simply to line up the clutch plate to make the gearbox go in easier.. Once the gearbox is in the clutch plate stays on the input shaft whether or not you've used an alignment tool or a dummy shaft etc...

    Is the gearbox new or rebuilt? Or was it a case of found it and put it in? If the latter is the case you don't know what's really going on inside the box.. The Input shaft for whatever reason could be bent, or the front main bearing of the box could be rooted.

    Both could cause the input shaft in your gearbox to viabrate around like crazy, flogging out your spigot bush and also since your clutch throwout bearing (the part that the clutch forks act on, thus activating the clutch) is mounted on the input shaft, that could also be making it move around all over the shop, hence making the rattling sound in the clutch forks as well

    hope this helps mate.. I'm a mechanic too... And the eaton roadranger gearboxes in trucks regularly need input shafts replaced and it always flogs the spigot bearing out hardcore. Half the ones I pull out fall to peices as soon as the gearbox comes out lol happens all the time

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    Beno1982 is offline Beno
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    thanks is it cheaper for me to have the gearbox overhauled or replace with a reco exchange if this is the case

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    Dusty_vs is offline your resident mechanic
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    If it's the case and there's no other problems with the box then you'd only have to replace what's rooted... Hence rather than getting a replacement box, potentially having other problems, potentially none.. Simply get your hands on a new Input shaft or bearing.. Whatevers buggered.

    A mate of mine did a manual conversion in his vr wagon and later found a massive driveline viabration, turned out to be the rear bearing in the box. That's the problem with second hand gear, 9 times out of ten the stuffs fine as and will be for ages, but it also could be f&@ked..

    I've never had a commodre box apart before.. Like I said I'm a truck mechanic.. But I know most gearboxes that I work on you can replace the input shaft without taking the gearbox apart, it takes about 20 minutes once the box is out of the car.

    Get second opinions for sure before ripping into it.. Just because a mechanic said something doesn't mean it's gospel lol were not perfect... Weigh up all your options. If you just replace an input shaft.. The rest of the box is still old and could last forever could shite itself tomorrow... Saying that.. A reco box has new gear in it.. And could last the life of the car if looked after.

    Have a look around.. Get opinions.. That's the only solid advice anyone ca really give

    hope I helped mate

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty_vs View Post
    If it's the case and there's no other problems with the box then you'd only have to replace what's rooted... Hence rather than getting a replacement box, potentially having other problems, potentially none.. Simply get your hands on a new Input shaft or bearing.. Whatevers buggered.

    A mate of mine did a manual conversion in his vr wagon and later found a massive driveline viabration, turned out to be the rear bearing in the box. That's the problem with second hand gear, 9 times out of ten the stuffs fine as and will be for ages, but it also could be f&@ked..

    I've never had a commodre box apart before.. Like I said I'm a truck mechanic.. But I know most gearboxes that I work on you can replace the input shaft without taking the gearbox apart, it takes about 20 minutes once the box is out of the car.

    Get second opinions for sure before ripping into it.. Just because a mechanic said something doesn't mean it's gospel lol were not perfect... Weigh up all your options. If you just replace an input shaft.. The rest of the box is still old and could last forever could shite itself tomorrow... Saying that.. A reco box has new gear in it.. And could last the life of the car if looked after.

    Have a look around.. Get opinions.. That's the only solid advice anyone ca really give

    hope I helped mate
    hey mate


    if the gearbox in your car is a borg warner t5, replacing the input shaft is a case of pulling the gearbox apart so if you dont need to then dont do it,
    i had the gearbox out of my vr a couple months ago and i was pricing parts, i think from memory the input shaft was about $700 through holden,
    but yer best advice is to ask around
    if u want me to try and find out a bit more about your spigot problem i can try and find out from a couple people i know

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    Beno1982 is offline Beno
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripcurl View Post
    hey mate


    if the gearbox in your car is a borg warner t5, replacing the input shaft is a case of pulling the gearbox apart so if you dont need to then dont do it,
    i had the gearbox out of my vr a couple months ago and i was pricing parts, i think from memory the input shaft was about $700 through holden,
    but yer best advice is to ask around
    if u want me to try and find out a bit more about your spigot problem i can try and find out from a couple people i know
    if you could ask round ripcurl that would be great.

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    I have had the same drama with mine spun...this one is my third ...hopefully ive got it this time...spigot bush should be soaked in oil for a few hours to stop binding and when installing it needs bearing mount loctite on mating surfaces...almost needs some pop marks in the outside to give it more resistance to spinning.
    Also vibration in the fork is the bearing retainer being worn and the throwout bearing moves around on the worn surface on take up and vibrates the pedal through the cable under light load ......lightly greasing the surface worked for a while after I did the clutch but its back again....read this post about it When I showed a bloke who I bought the new clutch from who fixes gearboxes, my old retainer he told me it was alright.....wish I had gone with my gut feelings and done it while it was out
    I got a new retainer and steel carrier and throwout bearing from mal wood to fit to my box when I feel like pulling the bloody thing out again.
    The retainer is numbered 53 in the picture below

    Last edited by markovr; 04-09-2010 at 08:20 AM.
    This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain ......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday

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    Beno1982 is offline Beno
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    thanks markovr i will get onto mal wood buy one of these, i also think i might get a new clutch fork, clip and bushes for it aswell there only $160 then thats everything i hope this will be the last time i have to pull it out.

    I rang Mal Wood and spoke to them they told me that it sounded like my bushes in the clutch fork had worn down, and the clip may have fallen off (hope this aint the case i don't like the idea of anything rolling around inside a gearbox)

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    Bushes in clutch fork? He tried to sell me one too but mine is ok it is boxed in with extra steel from factory and has the counterweight welded to it mine looked fine...no reason to replace...in a couple of months of use a new one will look just the same as the old one....I think if you put heavier pressure plates you might tax the fork but under normal use it should be ok...mine was.
    Mal wood is good and has all the bits but I get the impression he tells you what you want to hear and he isnt cheap so make sure you havent bought something you dont need...maybe a second opinion...there a bloke on ebay in sydney who says he has a lot of t5 spares...maybe hes worth asking a few questions he calls himself syncro-kid BORG WARNER T 5 5 SPEED GEAR BOXES REPAIRED - eBay, Other Automotive Services, Automotive, Services. (end time 09-Sep-10 10:19:36 AEST)
    The clutch fork has a ball joint that doesnt normally wear out (unless you have been using a heavier pressure plate) and the clutch fork has a 2 x $7 (hopelessly over priced) rubber tits that sit on holes in the throwout fork and sit against the throwout bearing carrier and stop the rattle.The clip holds the fork against the ball...there would have been a lot of use for it to wear out...Ill take a couple of scans from the factory book of the throwout fork before you waste any money so you dont buy something you dont need
    The picture shows the ball and socket arrangement with the load side of the socket being on the throw outfork and the clip keeping it in place and the dimensions you adjust the ball to get the right travel. When I pulled mine out everything there was pretty good considering the car has done over 300 km on it....just a clean and relube for it.
    Last edited by markovr; 05-09-2010 at 08:39 AM.
    This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain ......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday

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