Vr stalls irratic idle abs??

[vpwagon19]

hope some of u can help me!
yesterday i bought a vr series 2 commy the people i bought it from said the head has gone! car goes hard as and you couldnt tell that the head is gone??? there is no oil in the water or water in the oil all good there the only problem is it kept stalling so today i changed the bcm, coils, leads and plugs also injectors and still stalls every now and then. its idle is irratic the people i bought it from also gave me a invoice which all the work was done 2 days ago cost them 1500 they put a new abs and some other pars, and the brake pedal nearly goes to the floor, there are no visible cracks in the harmonic balancer any suggestions people as to cause of problems p.s have not found any vacuum leaks so far

[hako]

Clean the throttle body and the Idle air control valve (IAC)....pedal going to floor may mean air in the brakes which may not have been bled properly due to ABS or maybe they also put new pads in which need to bed in. Do a codes check Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised) as this may give a code which may point to crank angle sensor (CAS) failing (usually when hot).
What did plugs look like when replaced?

[vpwagon19]

cheers for the help.
i got no idea what the plugs looked like as abs changed them 2 weeks b4 i got the car but didnt do the leads..... they also put a new brake line on which they didnt tighten up found that out while i started bleeding them, did the (IAC) valve made no difference did a codes check got code 12 meaning all good

cheers Cameron

[QuickVRII95]

I've Got A N/A Tuned VR Series II & It Goes Bloody Hard... It Started Running A Bit Rough & It Wheel Spun Around A Roundabout, I Heard A Loud Metallic Clunk & It Still Was Going Strong, So I Thought Nothing Of It (Thinking The Transmission Was Going Again From Power Increase)..

It Ended Up Being The Cam Follower On ONLY The Third Piston On Left Bank & Both Lifters Now Smack On Cam & Tick When Accelerating Until You Floor It... I Did Test It On The Princess Highway & Hit Over 250kmph With The Standard Memcal Though.. 8^P Silly Bugger, I Know...

So Be Cautious.. No Calcification In Oil Or Bubbles In Coolant Either!!

I've Got The Engine Stripped Now.. Adding New Components Anyway, So It Doesn't Really Bother Me..
(Adding To What Cameron Said..)
About Your ABS... Whoever Put It On, Didn't Bleed The System Before Installing It & Air Is In The ABS Unit... Result: Major Problems Like Your Having.. (Foot To Floor)

It's ONLY Really One Of Three Things; ABS UNIT, Master Cylinder OR >Brake Booster Leak<.. (Which A Hose Attaches To The Side Of Throttle Body... Can Cause Rough Idle Too)

Vacuum Leak Could Also Be Evident Under Dash On Air Conditioning System... If You Take The Little Hose Off The Side Of The Throttle Body.. You Can't Use Air Conditioning Vents (ONLY Demister)...

Check Your Alternator Regulator Bushes, If It Keeps Stalling...
It Could Be A Tiny Valley Gasket Leak Too, Causing Your Rough Idle... They Also Run A Bit Rough, If Your Coolant Isn't Up To Spec Or There's A Block In Your Cooling System...

[QuickVRII95]

Apologies... I Like To Type...

[QuickVRII95]

One Last Thing... Change You Belt Tensioner (Idle) Pulley... IT WILL Make It Run Rough Too..

[vpwagon19]

One Last Thing... Change You Belt Tensioner (Idle) Pulley... IT WILL Make It Run Rough Too..

will that make it stall aswell? justbout every time i pull up at a set of lights it stalls??? all vacume lines are fine cheerz for the help

[QuickVRII95]

It's A Combination Of Things, That Can Make A Car Stall... I Blow Metal Idle Pulleys All The Time... Even Shear Them Off The Bracket, In Some Cases... (High Bhp)

If It's Plastic... Change It Anyway, Before You Damage Your Timing Gear... Plastic Ones Are Crap..

Stalling Problem When Puling Up To Lights..

>>It's The Throttle Position Sensor &/or The Idle Air Control Sensor On The Throttle Body... (Change Both At Same Time)<<

You Can Temporarily Get Past This Problem, By Adjusting The Throttle Body Idle Screw & Slightly Open The Butterfly A Bit More To Stop It Stalling.. So You Can Buy The Parts (NOT A Long Term Thing Though)..

But If You Haven't Fixed The Brake Problem First (Major Defect), I'd Get One Of Your Mates To Take You & Get The Parts...

If Your Battery Light Comes On Or Flashes... It Will Definitely Be The Alternator Regulator (Bushes) If You Get A Flat Battery Too...
(Bushes Worn & Not Contacting = No Power & Drains Battery When Driving & Eventually Stalls)..

Might As Well Check It.. New Bosch Regulator Only Costs Around $37 Including GST..

[immortality]

how about you try cleaning the throttle body, especially the IAC and associated passages as Hako suggesting in the first reply as it is 99% likely to be the rough idle problem.

bleed the brake system. if a lot of air is trapped in the ABS unit then sometimes the only way to clear it is to have it hooked up to a diagnostic system which can cycle the ABS module to help get the air out.

[Brett_jjj]

If you cant get all the air out of the brake system,and cant get hold of a scantool to cycle the ABS,bleed the brakes to get them working as best you can, then try locking up the wheels on some grass (somewhere safe).This will cycle the ABS and hopefully let the trapped air go through the system so it can be bled out.Just lock it up a few times on the grass ,then rebleed the brakes.It might take a few lockups and rebleeds to get all the air out.

[QuickVRII95]

You Can Stuff Your ABS Unit By Doing That (Brett_JJJ) & F@#K Your Master Cylinder (Blow Internal Seals)... Seen It Happen On BMW...
Believe Me When I Say "Check Your Brake Booster Too"... (DON'T Press Brake Pedal, More Than 1/2 - 2/3 Of It's Travel Either.. BIG No No!!)

Ask A Mechanic To Check It With The Car Scan & Do It Properly... If Your A Mechanic or Apprentice & Can Do It Yourself.. It Shouldn't Be That Hard To Get A Car Scan & The Right Tools...

Don't Make The Mistake (Like Many People Do) Of Using Throttle & Carby Cleaner On The IACS & TPS... It Stuffs The Sensors...

Use This First & If Symptoms Persist, Contact Your Parts Supplier For IAC & TP Sensors...
MAF Sensor Cleaner from CRC

[immortality]

Don't Make The Mistake (Like Many People Do) Of Using Throttle & Carby Cleaner On The IACS & TPS... It Stuffs The Sensors...

Use This First & If Symptoms Persist, Contact Your Parts Supplier For IAC & TP Sensors...
MAF Sensor Cleaner from CRC

now is see the problem, we use the carb cleaner to clean the TB, you obviously use it on the sensors and to cause the failure.

[QuickVRII95]

now is see the problem, we use the carb cleaner to clean the TB, you obviously use it on the sensors and to cause the failure.

If Your Going To Troll Blogs & Be A Complete Tool... Go Ahead & Learn To Comprehend What I've Typed You Moron...

"Don't Make The Mistake >(Like Many People Do)< Of Using Throttle & Carby Cleaner On The IACS & TPS... It Stuffs The Sensors..."

Get A Life!!

[immortality]

If Your Going To Troll Blogs & Be A Complete Tool... Go Ahead & Learn To Comprehend What I've Typed You Moron...

"Don't Make The Mistake >(Like Many People Do)< Of Using Throttle & Carby Cleaner On The IACS & TPS... It Stuffs The Sensors..."

Get A Life!!

got a life thanks, rather enjoying it today. been a blast so far

[QuickVRII95]

One Where Your Heads Not In Your Arse.. Your Life Is A Farce... Troll Somewhere Else!!

[immortality]

sticks and stones may break my bones but words will never hurt me

[Brett_jjj]

You Can Stuff Your ABS Unit By Doing That (Brett_JJJ) & F@#K Your Master Cylinder (Blow Internal Seals)... Seen It Happen On BMW...
Believe Me When I Say "Check Your Brake Booster Too"... (DON'T Press Brake Pedal, More Than 1/2 - 2/3 Of It's Travel Either.. BIG No No!!)

Ask A Mechanic To Check It With The Car Scan & Do It Properly... If Your A Mechanic or Apprentice & Can Do It Yourself.. It Shouldn't Be That Hard To Get A Car Scan & The Right Tools...

Don't Make The Mistake (Like Many People Do) Of Using Throttle & Carby Cleaner On The IACS & TPS... It Stuffs The Sensors...

Use This First & If Symptoms Persist, Contact Your Parts Supplier For IAC & TP Sensors...
MAF Sensor Cleaner from CRC

I cant see how activating the ABS by locking the wheels would stuff it up and cause it to blow seals.If the ABS system blew seals etc every time a wheel locked up, and the system activated,they wouldnt even use it,it would be to unsafe.All the tech1/ tech 2 scantool does is activate the ABS modulator to let the trapped air through so it can be bled out.No different from activating it by locking the wheels.I know heaps of blokes with ABS equipped commodores who have bled their ABS systems using this method and Ive never heard of ,or seen anything stuff up.And usually before the brakes are bled the pedal will go straight to the floor until some of the air is bled and the pressure starts to come up.Ive bled a hell of a lot of brakes in my 25 years of servicing/repairing different vehicles, and Ive never seen a problem caused by the brake pedal going to the floor whilst bleeding the brakes.

[QuickVRII95]

I Didn't Say The ABS Will Blows Internal Seals... If You Actually Read It.. I Said, The Master Cylinder WILL Blow Seals...

If You Have Air In Your System & Your Pedal Goes To The Floor.. By Hitting The Brakes With Force (To Overcome The Soft Pedal...) You Over Extend The Master Cylinder Reach & Stuff It...

You NEED To Bleed The ABS UNIT, While Under The Hood & Using Scan Tool (NEED Two Persons)... (Where Is The Air Going..?? If Your Stamping The Brake Pedal & Stuffing You Master Cylinder, While Potentially Stuffing Your ABS UNIT..??

Cleaning The ABS Sensors Also Helps Too.. Could Be An Interrupted Signal From Brakes Adding To It.... ABS Sensors ARE Very Sensitive To Knocks, When Installing New Brakes &/Or Hub...