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Thread: Ignition stuck, starter keeps cranking, have to manually turm key back when starting

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    Default Ignition stuck, starter keeps cranking, have to manually turm key back when starting

    Hi all, wondering if i need to take my issue to a locksmith, an auto elec or a mechanic?

    When i turn the key to start the car it stays in that position and doesnt automatically fling back. The starter keeps cranking and i have to manually turn the key back just a little for the car to start and to stop the starter from continiously cranking over.

    Ive got the nack of starting the car and turning the key back at the right time, but this needs to be fixed.

    Who do i need to take this to and how much do ya rekkin they'll sting me to fix it?

    Thanks!

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    Matty.b is offline VR with 56,000kms genuine
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    when i worked at Toyota had a Celica doing the same thing all it was, was the locksmiths had cut a new key....but done a shit job, is it a new key?

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    Also i thought about spraying WD40 in the keyhole/barrel but then i realised that won't help because it seems to be a spring issue.

    When cranked over the key fails to spring back.

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    Try some WD40 if that doesn't work its either a dodgy wafer in the ignition or the return spring on the tail shaft of the ignition has broken. If it turns out to be either of those options a new ignition barrel is required witch a locksmith will be able to help you with.
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    Not that uncommon in a vs. Most likely up for a new ignition barrel which is about $70 from holden plus labour to code and fit it. Hopefully the housing is not also cracked as they're quite pricey.

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    QuickVRII95 is offline Banned
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    Check With Your Locksmith First... Some Locksmith Cut Original Keys & Can Replace Barrels Too... GM WILL Charge You An Arm & A Leg... I Used To Work In Holden Parts...

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    Quote Originally Posted by cander24 View Post
    Not that uncommon in a vs. Most likely up for a new ignition barrel which is about $70 from holden plus labour to code and fit it. Hopefully the housing is not also cracked as they're quite pricey.
    I agree.

    Common on VS.
    Get a new uncoded barrel from Holden and have a locksmith recode it to match your existing key blade.

    Its not that hard to do yourself if your'e a bit handy. Just make sure steering lock bar pops out correctly when the key is removed. Check this before you refit the assembly.
    If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?

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    Silicon spray done nothin'. I will contact a locksmith and take it from there. Thanks guys....

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    you should never spray WD40 into a key hole as it takes all the natural lubricant out of it and flushes it away. u should use graphite and rub it on you key and then insert it. by the way when i say graphite i am talking about a lead pencil( made from graphite not lead these days)

    but mate new barrel would be the best bet, lubrication of the barrel wouldnt work it sounds a little more serious than that
    Last edited by sawychri06; 07-09-2010 at 10:56 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sawychri06 View Post
    you should never spray WD40 into a key hole as it takes all the natural lubricant out of it and flushes it away. u should use graphite and rub it on you key and then insert it. by the way when i say graphite i am talking about a lead pencil( made from graphite not lead these days)

    but mate new barrel would be the best bet, lubrication of the barrel wouldnt work it sounds a little more serious than that

    I Agree... WD40 etc.. Should Never Be Sprayed Into The Barrel... It Attracts Dirt & Grit, That WILL Damage The Lock..

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