Are the valves gone?
my regular mechanic says its not the valves but he cant find the problem and the holden dealer mechanics say it is the valves.
the car is running so rough it feels like it will die soon, but, if i put the foot right down, after the initial hesitation it excellerates just as good as ever. if the valves are gone can it still excellerate as good as ever?
i dont know what to do.
the car is a v6 auto, duel fuel ute.
Last edited by quimby; 11-09-2010 at 07:38 PM.
operation HQ under way.
compression test. this should of been done at either place
Originally Posted by Adam Savage (mythbusters)
Banned
Generally no, My theory is with if its a mechanical problem then the issues are seldom intermittent.
With out know whats been done, I'd be looking at plugs and leads, possibly the coil packs if its a V6 and anything assosiated with that side of things.
operation HQ under way.
if its a constant miss and they suspect valves a compression test would easily show it and with the tools today it can be done electronically
Real cars are steel cars.
Firstly, clean the throttle body and throttle plate. Remove the ISC (idle speed control) motor and clean the end an the housing.
Carbon build up messes with idle quality.
If that doesn't work try this,
Remove the DFI module a (I assume its a 6) and bracket that goes between the DFI and head.
Clean under the DFI and opposite face of bracket with emery and also where the bracket bolts to the head.
This will restore the earth for the DFI.
The DFI is used to trim idle speed as well as the ISC.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
thanks for the replys.
the car is a vs, v6 auto, duel fuel, ute. the engine is missing on gas and petrol.
i've had the plugs, leads, coil and plate replaced and it was still missing, not all the time at first but contantly missing now.
my regular mechanic did a compression test and says the valves arent too bad and they are not the problem anyway because its intermittent.
holden mechanics did a compression test and they say that the valves need doing and are causing the problem. had a code 13 error too.
if the valves arent causing the problem what else might it be?
The Wagon on Wheels..
have you done an error code check? Look if the valves are gone, or maybe its somthing else, and knowone can give you a proper diagnosis. I would be inclined to seriously think about a cheap second hand motor or heads to swap yours out. These motors are getting so cheap now days, its hardly worth spending the money on fault finding and then having to pay money for parts and labour. You can pick them up off ebay for $2-300 at times.
It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
Reaper
I wouldnt go doing anything like changing the engine just yet.Id look into the problem a bit more first.Ive had the same shit happen from different mechanics years ago contradicting eachother,and charging me a fortune for it.So I taught myself about fixing cars. Id get an engine compression tester (you can get em fairly cheap.Ebay,supercheap etc.) and do a compression test on the engine as was mentioned above, to get an idea of its condition.Also as mentioned above,usually a mechanical problem like burned/leaking valves wont be intermittant,it will constantly happen,and a compression test will show up straight away if its got leaking valves or not.Another telltale sign when you get burnt or otherwise leaking valves is the engine will make popping noises through the exhaust when revving steadily above say 2000 RPM.If the compression is ok,then Id be looking at the electrical side of things.If it runs the same on gas as it does on petrol,then its not a fuel problem,and if the compression is ok,it only leaves spark that could be the problem.
ok, sounds like its not the valves, will try to clean the throttle, iIAC, DFI, etc.
i was reading another thread, (idle and stalling probs), if i had faulty vacume pressure could that be a poss. cause?
operation HQ under way.
if you had a vacuum leak yes it could cause a miss fire and will run rough
The Wagon on Wheels..
Yes, my advice was probably a bit over the top, but it was born from having dicky things like you explained happen. Somtimes given the circumstances, swaping out the engine can be the cheapest fix somtimes, given the price of them these days.
If all option havnt been explored yet, its definatly worth exploring them first.
It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
Reaper
Banned
dont trust holden mechs they are shit
a mechanic from another workshop came in to my work oneday and said he wouldent piss on a dealership mechanic if he was on fire
dose that give you an idea on how shit they are
Last edited by vr1uz-fe; 12-09-2010 at 10:03 PM.
Real cars are steel cars.
Get your flame suit on buddy.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Banned
srry not just holden mechanics all dealership mechanics
operation HQ under way.
go and #### your self mate..... im a holden tech and i bet im twice as smart as most city mechanics......... dont judge a book bye its cover
Banned
srry mate it's not true that all dealrship mechs are shit just most of them mainly the ones that were trained at one dealership and have never seen the underside of other cars
operation HQ under way.
im not going to go too far off topic but yeah i do agree but ive been in the same dealer ship for 8 years and being small we do everything from el fords to vb commodores to the new ve and most in between including 4x4 and people movers.
finally found the prob. last week. i'm in a smallish town and my mechanic had a few jobs for an auto-elec to come over so he could have a look at mine too. he found a faulty electrical conection on the coil or to do with it. cars going good now. glad i didnt let the others do the valves.
Good to hear its fixed,its always worth getting a second, or even a third opinion on major costly things like that.As you just found out.
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