Sway Bar link questions, factory design.
Hi,
So not long since I had my VS and I couldn't notice how the sway bar links were setup, on most other cars they are attached to the LCA's but these are attached to the front shocks and they seem to be creating a resistance on my steering.
Also I notice the bushes always are sitting at a very uncomfortable position, if I adjust them back and go for a drive they just slide outward again.
I'm wondering if somebody could give more info on the factory design from what I've read it seems to be flawed as far as the bush wear goes.
What about steering, is there anyway to improve that? Seems when I got the car jacked up and I am turning the steering wheel, the sway bar links are creating a resistance wanting to pull the wheel back, when driving steering feels much heavier than most cars i've driven.
The aftermarket ones like Nolathane seem to have a different bush design, and also a S Shaped rod rather than a straight one, not sure why it's S shaped if anybody could shed some light on that.
Do the aftermarket sway bar links help with steering at all as in make it easier? Or just are designed for a longer life and less wear?
Thanks.
Get the nolathane ones, the s design take the preload off and sit perfectly. The factory ones are shit design. Not only are the s shaped thicker, but also light as hell. I paid $70 for mine from Auto One. Thats about all i can tell you as thats all i know about the matter
Also from what I have seen the actual Nolathane brand has the best shaped bushes the other cheaper ones do not. There are also other types out now that have ball joints top and bottom however they are a fair bit more expensive.
The reason Holden conected the sway bar to the strut like that instead of th elower control arm such as in a VB Commodore is that i doing so it increases the effectiveness of the sway bar so they can reduce it's diameter. whatever you do don't conect it to the lower arms as I have seen done on some cars.
The Wagon on Wheels..
As above there is ball joint links available, and for some reason im thinking back to a conversation i had with a bloke that reconned white line had a kit that totally redesigned the way the sway bay connect up. But maybe someone could shed some light on that one??
Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch
It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
Reaper
Your talking about sway bar to the z bar i think, whiteline do those also. Id provide links and pictures, but im on dial up and any page with an image takes ages to load, go to the whiteline site, click the options to see whats available for your make and model and itll bring up a list of stuff they have to suit your car and those different designed ones will be there.
Hand over the dog bikkies
They are the dodgiest looking things I have ever seen.
I got a pair of the newer style S shaped links with nolathene bushes for $22 sent to my door and the only problem I had was I put the washers on upside down and didn't lock tight them. Or you could go all out and get these. Last price I got was in the vicinity of $160 from Repco
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
if your looking side on at the nolathane bush it looks oval shaped which alows the link rod to piviot easyer and not compress the bush helping to stop the bush splitting, work good, the pedders one are the same but they have a straight link rod not the s shaped one. the ball joint type works great because there are no bushes to move and compress giving the sway bar more stiffness and because the balls alow it to piviot easyer. if interested i have 3 sets of the ball joint links, mine are different to the one above but the same deal.
take a look:
Whiteline Vehicle Swaybars and anti-roll bars reduce car sway and body roll
Scroll down to the bottom of the page
Hi,
Whiteline sells links that allow you to attach it to the lower control arm instead of the shock.
Interesting, wondering if this provides the same amount (or better?) anti-sway characteristics than the stock setup
Anyone run these?
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...t_number=KLC18
Hand over the dog bikkies
Do people not read through a thread I have already pointed this product out. I am sure a lot of research has gone into designing it how ever to me it just looks cheap and nasty. I definitely wouldn't feel safe putting that set-up on my car.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
The Wagon on Wheels..
+1 wtf...........
It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
Reaper
i have replaced a lot of that whiteline set because of them breaking, just need to put the vx-vy type link on them and there fine after that.
Real cars are steel cars.
I'm 100% on board with this post.They are the dodgiest looking things I have ever seen.
I got a pair of the newer style S shaped links with nolathene bushes for $22 sent to my door and the only problem I had was I put the washers on upside down and didn't lock tight them. Or you could go all out and get these. Last price I got was in the vicinity of $160 from Repco
The top pic shows the swaybar connection moved from the strut leg to almost half way along the lower control arm. This now moves the point of leverage inboard the distance from the ball joint to the new mounting point. This creates more twisting force on the front bar, effectively reducing its diameter. Fine if thats what you are after.
The second pics is the better product. This is what I have and never any issues. I tried several types of bushes in the factory links from HQ shocker bushes (soft) to nolothane (hard) and nothing worked. These are the way to go IMHO.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Not to mention it adds forces ontot he lower arm that it is not intended to take, imagine breaking a twig by holding it at both ends and pushing on the centre? Your not supposed to jack the front of these cars up from the lower arms, pretty much the same sort of force these links put on the lower arm. I'd be very suspect of this type of setup.
Banned
the link to the shock is what most companys run eruo cars always are set up like that except some bmw's and older euros it is better in some ways and not in others it would take all day to explain
there are many options avaliable for your car as you might of heard here
and for your info all cars are made to have heavier steering so the wheels stay center it's just the newer they get the heavier they get and more power they run into the rack bmw and lexus use electrick racks now as some other companys
Banned
and those whiteline links dont look to bad whats wrong with them
Banned
and those ball links are useless there meant to have alloy washers not urathane ones the ones i have at work have the alloy washer's
Hand over the dog bikkies
Err what. They have metal washers.....
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
Banned
no i mean the red bit's there meant to be alloy
urathane defeats the purpose as it slows reaction time of the sway bar
ive had this setup for about 2 years and never had a problem, im also running the 30mm front swaybar. bought a new car will be selling the VS anyway
So whats your thoughts on this set up, iv got a 30mm as well, have the nolathane set up, not any that was picture on here. What do you think is better for handling, nolathane or whiteline?
VR and VS error codes:
VS V8 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
VS V6 DTC/Error codes comprehensive list.
Banned
they both will be the same if both are 30mm but whiteline has adjustables wich as the name sugestests adjustable in stiffnes
Real cars are steel cars.
The heaver bar compensates for the change to the leverage point.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
nolathanes bars are whitelines just red also same as pedders, and they also come adjustable, as there all the same get what evers cheaper.
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