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Thread: Drivers power window wont go down after fitting

  1. #1
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    Default Drivers power window wont go down after fitting

    Hi, does anyone know how to fix the problem I have.

    Ive just put power windows into my ute and picked up a couple of switches today to test it all out.

    The passenger window works fine up and down. The drivers window only seems to power down and not up. Ive checked the wiring from the switch and there is power when its being pressed so the switch is fine. The regulator is ok as it goes up and down if I put power to it.

    Any ideas?

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    Just found this info for power windows to work on a low series BCM.
    If I get hold of a mid series BCM, will it all just plug in and work with auto down etc?

    (LH switchbank plugs into the 6 pin one, RH switches go into the 7 pin
    one)
    Bypassing the BCM:
    Basically what you need to do is look at the 2 plugs on the BCM.
    In connector A, the 9 pin one, there is a blue/white wire on one corner - beside
    that is the green/black wire from the switch.
    You need to cut that green/black wire.
    Leave the stump in the connector of the BCM (so you can properly insulate it with
    tape/heatshrink) and on the end that dissappears into the loom, strip it & add
    about a 6" length of wire - solder & shrink the connection well.
    Now head for the door harness. You should be able to spot it easily in the RH kick
    panel area up above the bonnet release - it will have a rubber sleeve over the
    wires in the pillar area, but this stops a few inches before the connector.
    Locate that connector - it is a funny shape with 4 central larger terminals
    surrounded by smaller terminals on 3 sides.
    You will find the green/orange wire underneath the black wire, and beside the
    blue/white wire in the door connector.
    Cut the green orange wire about 2 inches away from the door connector on the
    body harness side of the plug.
    Insulate the bit that goes back into the main dash harness.
    Grab the little 2" bit of wire from the connector, strip it, solder it & heatshrink it
    to the wire you extended off the green/black wire.
    The window will now work like the other 3, without auto down.

  3. #3
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    Assuming you get the matching key heads and wiring harness is already there it should be fine.
    Remember it must be a VS BCM as VR wont work.
    If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?

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    So power windows wont work with a mid BCM?

    Im considering just keeping the low BCM and bypassing the BCM using the method quoted above.
    Also, could I wire the switch power to the drivers fuse directly on the fuse box instead of to the door window loom?
    Last edited by tezza; 11-10-2010 at 08:07 PM.

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    I meant it must be a VS BCM as a VR one wont work.

    A Mid BCM is just a Low BCM with power window function added, to control the auto down and time out.

    To wire as above would be the simplest option.

    Not sure about wiring to the fuse box. The motor needs the polarity reversed to change direction, perhaps this is the reason?
    If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?

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    Yep, got that thanks for your help.

    Well that explains it because the up works on the drivers side and being a low bcm, the down isnt working because the feature is not in it.
    I can see the power going in, but not going out.

    I'll just bypass the BCM and hope it works

  7. #7
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    Lightbulb Help!!

    Hey guys, how do you separate the switch illumination from the main power source??!!
    The Orange-Yellow wire provides the power for both but i dont know how to separate them.
    how can I run it to a switch to turn off the illumination when not needed??!!
    HELP PLEASE!!!

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    bumpty bump :P


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