Strut mount bushes & Strut replacement question

[gontix]

So I have a clunk sound in the front left evertime I go over a bump. Jacked it up and had a look at it the other day and my strut mount bushes are ****ed. About to push through from the looks of it. I've got some spare notathane bushes with bearings lying around as I knew they were a problem.

Now I have tried to replace these before but I could not get the top bolt off (large bolt on the top of the strut). So I was thinking of taking it into pedders for them to just do it all for me. They will charge me $130 for both sides (I supply the bush), but they charge the same if I also wanted to replace the struts aswell. I think that the struts are ok, but I've done 70000kms on the car since I've bought it and its got 280000kms on the clock. I'm sure they are going to recommend changing them and I've been told the back stuts are leaking.

From previous experience, should I fork out the extra $290 they charge for stuts and just do it all at the same time (moneys rather tight)? Also, as I have an S-pack VR, I thought that the struts would be different to standard, but they reckon they're just the same. Is this the case?

Cheers guys..

[Brett_jjj]

If the struts that are in it now have done 280,000,then they will be worn out and will need replacing.Theres no point just replacing one or two things,its easier to do it all at once,that way the struts dont have to come out again later on to replace some other worn out part. .To get it to drive like new again,the whole front suspension on both sides will need replacing..,struts,strut mounts ,bearings,..Even new springs from holden are cheap.I bought new front struts ,springs and the bearings etc ,all from holden,and it only cost a few hunded dollars.The new FE2 front springs were like $42 each.$50 for the rears.Struts were around $99 each.And the rest of the stuff (mounts,bearings etc)was about $100 each side. I thought it was very reasonably priced considering they were genuine holden parts.Did you have spring compressors on the front spring when trying to undo the large nut on top of the strut?Theres a lot of pressure pushing against this nut if theres no spring compressors to take the load off it.Spring compressors are cheap to buy if you dont have any.Dont forget to get a wheel alignment after you renew any main front end components.

[gontix]

I've no idea if the struts have ever been replaced before. No I didn't have spring compressors on at the time, but not sure if it will make much difference as the large bolt was rotating along with the strut itself.

I wasn't aware that springs wore out. If I am happy with the ride hight, then springs should be fine right? What about struts, are they different on FE2 suspension? I don't need it to handle like new, the damn things cost me too much already. Almost everything else on the front has been replaced by myself.

[Brett_jjj]

Springs do wear out over time.They loose their tension and contribute to a crook ride and handling.You dont realise how bad they can be until they are replaced with new ones.The front struts are the same for standard and FE2 according to holden when I went to buy them..I just got the FE2 springs instead of the standard ones.Im pretty sure they said the spring prices were the same for FE2 and standard springs.The FE2's just drop the ride height a little, and tightens up the handling a bit over the standard springs.Also when trying to undo the large nut on top of the strut shaft,theres a hex on the top of the strut shaft that you can fit a spanner onto to hold the strut shaft while the nut is undone so the shaft doesnt turn.

[gontix]

Cheers, so worn springs won't just end up with a lower ride? Yeah the hex on top is a 10mm. Snapped the poor spanner trying to get it off. If I could get it off myself I would just change the bushes, but If I'm taking it into pedder, might as well do it all. -$500

[Brett_jjj]

You will find the hex will easily hold the strut from turning once the actual spring pressure is off the strut.Obviously you need spring compressors to relieve this pressure though.Mine both came off easily when done like this..I wouldnt go undoing it anyway without spring compressors fitted ,theres a lot of potential energy stored in a fitted spring,and it can fly off dangerously when undone without compressors.(people have been killed by them).There is a couple of bodgy ways to do it,like undoing the nut before removing the strut while the weight of the car is still on it.I dont know how you would go getting the new spring back in this way,the spring has to be sitting right etc.Its easier and safer to spend $30 to $40 at supercheap on some spring compressors and doing the job the proper way.Also a gregorys workshop manual is excellent for doing these type of jobs.Well worth it.

[greenacc]

As Brett said, plus don't use a pissy little 10mm spanner on the shaft, use a decent 10mm socket on a half inch drive ratchet or breaker bar. +++ spring compressors

[gontix]

I don't know why I didn't think of using a socket before. Bought some new tools today including a impact wrench, so I'll give it another go. Will only be replacing the strut mount bushes at this stage though, as I think the rest is still fine and I'm short of cash. Cheers for ur help guys!

[keygen]

i used a single hex 10mm socket & a 24mm spanner on the nut .

[jazza15]

i used a single hex 10mm socket & a 24mm spanner on the nut .

That's what I used for the first one, then we ended up using a hammer and chisel to shock the nut on the other side out. The 10mm hex thread rounded off and i think sheared off after using multi grips on the rounded top. Sometimes they are an absolute pr1k to get off, but other times, like I said the first one came off fine...

[Clutchy]

Just use a rattle gun on them easy as that way.

[gontix]

Yeah managed to do them both, but they are a pr**k of a job. The rattle gun I bought wasn't quite upto the task either. Will be taking it back and getting something bigger.

So got rid of my 'clunk' and car doesn't roll as much round corners, and large bumps are more comfortable.

[11gothevt11]

So I have a clunk sound in the front left evertime I go over a bump. Jacked it up and had a look at it the other day and my strut mount bushes are ****ed. About to push through from the looks of it. I've got some spare notathane bushes with bearings lying around as I knew they were a problem.

Now I have tried to replace these before but I could not get the top bolt off (large bolt on the top of the strut). So I was thinking of taking it into pedders for them to just do it all for me. They will charge me $130 for both sides (I supply the bush), but they charge the same if I also wanted to replace the struts aswell. I think that the struts are ok, but I've done 70000kms on the car since I've bought it and its got 280000kms on the clock. I'm sure they are going to recommend changing them and I've been told the back stuts are leaking.

From previous experience, should I fork out the extra $290 they charge for stuts and just do it all at the same time (moneys rather tight)? Also, as I have an S-pack VR, I thought that the struts would be different to standard, but they reckon they're just the same. Is this the case?

Cheers guys..

Hi there
My machic told me i need new bushes and bearing
As the front of my car sits at 2 differant heights

Can you please tell me when you inspected these parts
The busted one was it sitting higner or lower than other side???
I need to know this urgently as i have a pair of lowered springs ready to put in Saturday he is doing it
I need to know as i am not sure if i should lower it..If the side that sits lower isn't the busted side i will leave same springs in
If anyone els could also answer this would be great
Thanks in advance

[Darcon666]

You have to pull the strut out to fit the springs anyway... so might as well put new strut tops & bearings.

Superpro would be my first choice followed by anyting like nolathane or whiteline.