Ok it pissed down of the weekend and the drivers side ended up with a huge puddle on the floor. No idea if this is related but now the check engine light is on and its revving its tits off in drive. I've checked the error codes and its coming up with:-
32- manifold air flow sensor
46- no reference signals while cranking
67- TCC on-off solenoid control fault
81- 2-3 shift control solenoid fault
82- 1-2 shift control solenoid fault
97- canister purge solenoid and or circuit
any ideas how the hell I fix this and whats going to be involved?
It could be that water has got into the ECU and stuffed it.Id first try clearing the error codes by disconnecting the battery terminal for a couple of minutes,then driving the car for half an hour,then recheck to see if the error codes have returned,and if the engine light comes back on again.When was the last time you checked for error codes?Has the car been running ok before this?
Only had her a couple of months. Havent checked the codes before. She was running absolutely perfect prior to the drivers side being turned into a lake. Not really game to drive her though. She reverses perfectly fine but once its in drive its not going anywhere fast just pretty much does a snails pace no matter how much you put your foot down.
Just remembered I had the battery disconnected a few weeks ago so all error codes would be new.
Last edited by Demonica; 14-10-2010 at 01:54 PM. Reason: more info
Okey dokey, did what you said and comes up with 12,32,46,67,81,81 and 97. So no change unfortunately![]()
Id say moisture has got into the ECU which is located behind the left front kick panel.Its to much of a coincidence for all these sensors to just fail all at the same time.Id try another ECU,see if you can borrow one somewhere.The ECU just unclips and then it unplugs from the wiring connectors,so its easy to swap them over.The hardest part is taking the kick panel off.Also look for signs of moisture around and on the ECU once you get the kick panel off.Also you can try removing the battery terminal for a couple of minutes like before,but before starting the engine,try testing to see if the error codes are actually being cleared first.If they wont even clear,the ECU is more than likely buggered.You should just get a continuous code 12 flash up 3 times in a row to show the system is fine with no logged codes.Code 12 is also displayed before any error codes are shown,(if any errors have been logged).Its also displayed at the end of the test to show its finished displaying any logged error codes.
Last edited by Brett_jjj; 14-10-2010 at 03:28 PM.
Ahh well I'm just about to pull my entire interior apart for a make-over so I can replace it then. Hopefully I can find where the leak is coming from while I'm at it. Fingers crossed that it fixes the problem. Thanks for the advice btw![]()
I would recommend removing the ECU and giving it a going over. Disconnect battery and remove the appropriate parts to get to the ECU (remove glove box, black panel under glove box, door facing vent and kick panel). Unclip ECU, unplug connectors (take note of where they go), spray connections with contact cleaner to evaporate any moisture. Spray connections on the ECU with contact cleaner to evaporate moisture. Open the ECU and check for water inside and spray with contact cleaner and ensure all moisture removed. Let it all dry and re-assemble. If when inspecting the ECU you see any signs of damage inside - things looking black or corroded, then dont reinstall the ECU but rather look to replace it.
It may be logging faults due to shorting caused by the water, drying it out and giving it a once over with contact cleaner may bring it back to life.
Drew