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Thread: VS commodore vibrates and idles low

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    Default VS commodore vibrates and idles low

    hey if theres any one out there that could help with me problem that would be great ok
    ill start from the begingin . i got the car roughly about 6 months ago and it was running very good and had no issues at all but i thought i would change the leads and plugs as they looked old so i did and i also cleaned TB and Plenum champer as it was filthy inc IAC TPS the rough idle was still there it was when i put the PACEMAKER extractors on i noticed the low idle and the vibrations ???? thats when it started.. so i changed oxy sens thinkin they where F#@kDD didnt make any difference also changed coil packs as well as number 2/5 wasnt getting a readying with the multi meter didnt change anything so i looked over for the vibrations and i notice that the alternator bearings were loose so i got the replaced as well as transmission mounts it was done for didnt fix the vibration that much of a great deal so after that got the injectors cleaned and orings replaced they werer fine and swapped IAC valves just in case it was playing silly buggers . couldnt think off anything else much more apart from get a compression and all cylinders came in at 190 psi approx at normal operatting temperature. and also no error codes or anything .12 ..changed oil and filter ..please can someone help me out some how im lost to go next any help or suggestions would be great thank you

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    Try looking for any logged error codes.---Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)---If you scroll down near the bottom of the posts in the link,theres also some good pics to show how to do this test.Its easy ,and only takes a minute.Its very handy to know how to do it if your chasing probems with your car.

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    Maybe try a mates ECU that works fine and see if that changes the prob.
    http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...e-acclaim.html
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    Some guy in his backyard: Has a hole saw.

    Discuss.

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    plently of power doesnt seem to hesitiate when giving it abit like i said plenty of power but i did forget to mention was when at idle i can feel threw the steering wheel a light thump no sure why if that helps

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    if it as the crank agle sensor wouldnt that affect the igniotion make it stall ??

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    also the vibration is alot more noticable in DRIVE than NEUTRAL rpm in N is About 850 ...D rpm 700

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    I have a similar issue.. I find its not as bad running premium fuel. its been like that since the pacemakers went on.

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    Check the hoses that attach to the throttle body. I forgot to put mine back on once and the car sounded like it had a lumpy cam

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    Ive got the same issue, given the motor an upper engine carbon clean, cleaned TB/IAC. Replaced O2 sensors, replaced Crank angle sensor and Torque convertor and transmission mount and engine mounts, coil packs, leads and plugs (all were shot). No error codes in ECU and when checked with diagnostic tool all sensors are reading correctly (coolant temp sensor, inlet air temp sensor, TPS). I am basically at a loss as to what it is, sometimes it idles fine (usually when its warmer) but mostly its a bit rough with no real signs of variation in rpm... I'm now wondering if its either bearings in the alternator or pulleys on their way out... or some kind of random driveline vibration. VS2 V6 with 216,000kms...

    Drew

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    Quote Originally Posted by astormsau View Post
    Ive got the same issue, given the motor an upper engine carbon clean, cleaned TB/IAC. Replaced O2 sensors, replaced Crank angle sensor and Torque convertor and transmission mount and engine mounts, coil packs, leads and plugs (all were shot). No error codes in ECU and when checked with diagnostic tool all sensors are reading correctly (coolant temp sensor, inlet air temp sensor, TPS). I am basically at a loss as to what it is, sometimes it idles fine (usually when its warmer) but mostly its a bit rough with no real signs of variation in rpm... I'm now wondering if its either bearings in the alternator or pulleys on their way out... or some kind of random driveline vibration. VS2 V6 with 216,000kms...

    Drew
    I've done the same, Upper carbon clean (plenum off, tb, etc), new TPS (still have the old IAC) , New plugs & leads (though theyre a few months old now). Haven't done any of the mounts yet, but have had them checked and they appeared to be ok.

    o2 sensors I need to check. Has anyone tried reco injectors? I'm getting some new ones put in my car next weekend, will let you know if it makes any difference!

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    Did you do the error code check I mentioned above.This is the first thing to check when you have a problem you cant find.The test only takes a minute,and is as easy as 1-2-3 to do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett_jjj View Post
    Did you do the error code check I mentioned above.This is the first thing to check when you have a problem you cant find.The test only takes a minute,and is as easy as 1-2-3 to do.
    I admit I've been lazy with that lol.. only because last time I accidentally earthed the wrong pin and blew like 3 fuses and most of the globes in the car.... and also know a few mechanics that would scan it for nothing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nathanVS View Post
    I admit I've been lazy with that lol.. only because last time I accidentally earthed the wrong pin and blew like 3 fuses and most of the globes in the car.... and also know a few mechanics that would scan it for nothing.
    ---Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)--- Go into this link,then scroll down just before the bottom of the posts in it..There are some excellent pictures that clearly shows you the right pins to bridge etc.You cant go wrong if you look at these pics and read whats written underneath them.Its definitely worth learning how to do it,you can check all your own codes with no scanner needed.And,its free,and it only takes a minute to do, and is also easy to do(once youve done it a couple of times.)Cheers mate.

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    I have done the code check on mine with no issues. Originally I was getting an o2 code but replacing both sensors and doing the earthing mod fixed that issue. I have had the car hooked up to an auto elecs computer and everything is fine as far as the computer is concerned... but still she vibrates at idle...

    I found replacing my engine mounts made a bit of a difference, the old ones were quite squashed but the motor wasn't quite touching the crossmemeber so it wasnt vibrating through the car at that point...

    Drew

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    Id check the harmonic balancer,remove the serpentine belt first, and have a really good feel of it to check for any slight movement ,sideways or in/out.They can still look ok (even when the engine is running),but they can still cause a vibration or noise (or both).Closely check the rubber section of the balancer as well, its a good telltale of the condition of the balancer.If its cracked a lot and generally old looking,it might be worth trying another second hand balancer to see if theres any difference.If there is, you can either replace the balancer with a new one,or just keep the second hand one.You need a harmonic balancer remover/puller tool to do the job yourself.You can get 2 different common types,3 leg or 3 bolt.You need the 3 bolt type puller, with 1/4 UNF type bolts,three of them,about 2-3 inches long.(these type of bolts dont usually come with the puller,and have to be bought seperately).These bolts screw into the places in the 3 slots around the balancer.The pullers are cheap from places like supercheap etc,and the bolts are cheap.It still works out cheaper than paying a mechanic to do it,so its definitely worth buying the tools and doing it yourself.

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    Brett - you could be onto something there, mines almost due for the balancer to go (they usually go around 200,000kms yeah?) and I was having issues in my VR and it ran much smoother after a new balancer.

    Powerbond balancers for ecotecs are they go I reckon.

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    Hi guys got the same problem, not very bad but i can feel vibrations through the steering wheel and a bit in the seat, other VS's i've been in didn't do this.
    So I did engine mounts, new plugs, leads, cleaned the TB out and checked all hoses. Haven't checked my compression might be low but has lots of power and goes good.

    When giving it a rev though in neutral, the whole car leans/jerks to one side - What could that be, could the ballancer cause that?

    I'd give the ECU replacement a go too, sometimes capacitors go bad and cause problems. Maybe some sensors are getting old and causing bad running at idle?

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    FYI Mace Engineering sell powerbond balancers for ecotecs $123. Great company, i'll be getting one soon.

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    pacemakers can throw the MAF readings out a little at idle making it not so smooth but shouldn't affect the idle speed, that would be IAC, it could need resetting

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    I am wondering if taking it to holden to get the IAC correctly set might be worthwhile. I am wondering if by taking our IAC's out to clean them, and then putting them back in, if they are somehow getting a bit out of calibration causing this issue, apparently there is a correct procedure to set the IAC as it has 24 steps or something.

    Drew

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    i think it's ruffly 136 steps from memory, you can try resetting the ecu, pull the engine fuse under the bonnet for 20mins to reset, it will step the IAC then when you first start it up again.

    Other than that a Scantool or Tech1 can restep and calibrate the IAC and also do step tests on the IAC with the engine running.

    Im not sure if it's true but i have heard that they do reset at every start anyway.

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