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Thread: How to fit WM Statesman and newer holden rims on VS/VR (70mm hub)

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    Default How to fit WM Statesman and newer holden rims on VS/VR (70mm hub)

    For anyone interested in this topic, i just put a new set of WM Statesman rims on my VS.



    For anyone that has tried to do this before knows about the little tapered lip on the newer rims that make the hub size 5mm smaller in diameter.

    I tried a few different things that i read up about online: hand file, small grinding stone attachment for a drill, sanding bits and a router.

    Using a router with a Ball Bearing Guided bit worked perfectly. You literally can feel no hight different in the surfaces.
    I STRONGLY recommend using this method if you have access to a router rather then paying someone $60 a rim to do it or risking it/wasting time doing it by hand.

    I used a router bit similar to this one:

    Technical Name: Shear Cutting Flush Trim Bit
    You should be able to pick these up from any decent hardware store (Bunnings etc).

    All the other methods ended up either failing in the end or just being to messy/taking to long.

    The end result!: (Perfect!)



    Anyway hope this can be of help to someone and save them some time! =)

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    Any machine shop should be able to help you out, because if you take to much out you could put the wheel out of balance.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjdm1980 View Post
    Any machine shop should be able to help you out, because if you take to much out you could put the wheel out of balance.
    The tapered wheel nuts should centre the wheel however I'd be getting it done professionally because this is meant to slide over the wheel hub and take the weight of the car so there is no shear load applied to the wheel studs which can cause them to break. The wheel studs should only have a tension load applied from the torque of the wheel nuts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wortus View Post
    The tapered wheel nuts should centre the wheel however I'd be getting it done professionally because this is meant to slide over the wheel hub and take the weight of the car so there is no shear load applied to the wheel studs which can cause them to break. The wheel studs should only have a tension load applied from the torque of the wheel nuts.
    Agreed 100%
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    Quote Originally Posted by RX25SE View Post
    Agreed 100%
    I dont think you guys really understand what i did here. There was not too much taken out anywhere and it is not possible to do so with the right router bit. The hub size on these rims is still 70mm (exactly what its supposed to be) just with a small lip. If you used the correct ball bearing guided router bit there is no way you can take off to much.
    Your result will be a nice smooth finish cut to EXACTLY 70mm...

    I understand what you guys are saying in relation to using a hand file or something hence the reason I stopped half way and turned to a much better method.

    Once again I will say if you do this correctly there will be no shear weight load on the studs themselves.

    For anyone still not willing/made of money, go right ahead and pay someone $60 a rim to do it, be my guest.
    I'm simply offering a much cheaper way that has an end result that is just as good.

    I didn't make this topic so everyone can pull it apart, if you don't like the idea then don't do it its your choice. I did it and it worked 100% and it cost me $0.

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    I didn't make this topic so everyone can pull it apart, if you don't like the idea then don't do it its your choice. I did it and it worked 100% and it cost me $0.[/QUOTE]

    No intention to "pull it apart" or critisize it was just advice as is your post, that if your not 100% sure what your doing get it done so you don't end up loosing a wheel(s) at high speed.
    Out of interest how much does one of those routers cost anyway?

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    Something like this would be fine for alloy: $129 SYDNEY TOOLS - Bosch DIY 1200W Router

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