i need help my commodore is not going
i was just wondering if anyone had any toubleshooting pages they could copy and send me as my beloved commodore broke down yesterday,it was driving well until it stopped and on restarting would only go fo a few seconds and then stopped again,i have since tried restarting it and it won't go,i have a max ellery manual but it doesn't have a troubleshooting part in it,i know the haynes and gregory's ones usually do,any help on this matter would be really appreciated
Donating Member
Try checking for error codes first:Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)
It is easy to do. However, from the sounds of it, the CAS (crank angle sensor) has probably failed....if it has, once the engine cools it will probably work again and then fail again when it gets hot. Anyway do the code check to confirm and report back.
And welcome to the forum.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Mucca Mad Boys
With what hako said you can sometimes poor a cold drink onto the cas like a coke or something to cool it down and it may fire back up( yes i now it sounds silly). It could also be a fuel problem. Remove the kick panel on the passenger side footwell and check the little light on the computer and check the sequence and colour. If you have trouble just ask
Donating Member w/ Boost
don't have that on anything newer than VL.Originally Posted by Skid Bro
Remove the kick panel on the passenger side footwell and check the little light on the computer and check the sequence and colour. If you have trouble just ask
thanx guys,i'll try that tomorrow,it decided to rain on me today so i havn't had much of a look at it,but i will try and check for codes and have a look over it tomorrow if i can,i'm glad i found this website though it has been very helpful
Mucca Mad Boys
What part haha. the lights ? thats embarrasing man
i tried to start it again today and it won't go,i even flattened the battery
it kept giving me code 12,so i'm stumped
Gave up on VL's
It repeats code 12 three times then it should show errors codes if any after that.it kept giving me code 12,so i'm stumped
Has it got fuel? It may say it has some but the gauge could be faulty or maybe the pump is not working...
it jut kept repeating code 12 until i turned the key off,it dislplayed it over 3 times more like 20 times lol,it has over a quarter of a tank of fuel and i just jerry canned another 10 litres in on top of that,and i can hear the fuel pump working,so i'm not sure what to try next
Donating Member
Questions: is the red flashing light below the radio on when you try and crank the car?...it should go out when the key is turned to ignition.
is the battery fully charged?....Commodores need a healthy battery otherwise they will not start.
have you had any signs in impending enginetrouble over the few days/weeks?....hard to start, missing etc.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
the red light under the stereo dose go out when i turn the ignition on,and yes the battery is fully charged,but it has needed 2 goes at starting it some mornings but i just assumed that was because it was cold
The Holden Hunter!
Take the fuel line off and check for pressure sounds like a dodgy pump, it's on LPG so you could of ran the pump dry and killed it?
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it runs on unleaded only not lpg,i don't know how to check for pressure in the fuel line,could you explain that to me? i can hear the fuel pump functioning when i turn the ignition on.
Real cars are steel cars.
A little corrosive perhaps?
I suggest pulling off a plug lead and checking for spark. Maybe even one lead from each coil. Be careful though, we're talking over 30,000 volts!
If it has spark, then look at the fuel system. Checking the fuel pressure is tricky without the fuel line disconnecting tool and a flow through pressure gauge. You could try loosening the fuel filter after the engine has been cranked and see if there is any residual pressure. Again take care, dont get sprayed in the face with fuel.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Donating Member
If she can hear the fuel pump priming then she has fuel pressure - next is ignition....a failed CAS does not always leave a code, then again, neither does a failed DFI module, but the CAS does seem to fail more often.
Last question: when trying to start, does it give a kick every now and then or try to start or just give no indication of starting?
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
if its a failed CAS woundlnt it more than likely start when its dead cold normally they dont just kark it normally they play up when its hot for awhile first, just my 2cents and could be completely wrong
CAS's dont always stuff up just when they are hot.Ive seen a few CAS's fail where the car just wouldnt go at all.It didnt matter if it was hot or cold.In saying that,heat can sometimes effect them and make some of them stuff up when they are old and get hot.Ive also seen a few problems caused by some new cheaper non genuine CAS's. In my opinion its best to stick to genuine holden parts when it comes to engine sensors etc.
ok,i will check for spark tomorrow and don't worry guys i have done that before just not on the vs,i used to own a vk it was so much easier to work on lol it didn't have silly metal insulaters over the leads and as many sensors,i also noticed today when i pushed it off the grass onto the driveway that the waterpump is leaking or stuffed but that wouldn't make it stop running would it?,and this might sound silly but where i the cas located and what does it look like?
and no it doesn't even give a kick it just keeps turning over with no indication of starting hako
Real cars are steel cars.
The CAS is behind the harmoic balancer at the front of the motor.
I wonder if the water pump leaked all over the CAS and stuffed it??
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
Donating Member
Or it can also spray up under the DFI module/coil pack and penetrate the connectors and cause corrosion.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
and no it doesn't even give a kick it just keeps turning over with no indication of starting hako
If its the CAS i think it wouldnt be turning over, dont quote maybe some can elaborate more as i'm just a auto trans repairer
A faulty CAS wont stop the engine from winding over,it just wont fire up..
ok i have pulled the leads off today and it has no spark,would a crappy cas make it not spark?i have a vr sedan out the back which is unregistered but still runs well, could i pull the cas and water pump off that to determine if that is the problem?and another stupid question what is a dfi?
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