I put new pads in the VS today .
Now when i hit the brakes i hear like a "click" noise.....very loud when depress the brake fully if i push the pedal slowly i get the same click out of the master cylinder/brakebooster. when i push hard, soft, fast or slow i get the same click same loudness when the pedal gets almost fully dpressed (not depressed to the floor but depressed hard as i can once bled) what could be making this noise? neighbour noticed fluid coming out of the little pinhole overflow hole in the top the lid when pressed fully but once i said it has just been bled and filled to the max level.
Also forgot to add ive had the break booster vac hose off during the week and i havent driven the car scince. if i wrecked this hose in anyway can it casue this? The master cyl/booster will make this noise weather car is running or not soon as i get the pedal to the certin positon it makes the loud metal on metal click nose.....also where the vac hose clamps on should that grey bung on the boost be able to move in circles. i have a feeling now i think back it wasnt mooving then i did something to make it move it wont move under the weight of the hose but u can move it freely with your hand
Bump Anyone i wanna get this fixed asap so im not driving it like this at xmas when i have to communte?
The only 'click' I've heard from the MC is when one side of the brakes (the MC is split) needs bleeding or one of the cups on the MC piston has collapsed or is leaking bad - this causes the imbalance switch to click and turn the brake warning light on. It sounds like you have lost half your system....meaning you now only have either the front or rear brakes, not both. The grey bung is usually loose. The vac hose is just a hose.
So, I'd say you will need to rectify this problem quick - first thing is to start the car and check if the brake warning light is on - if it is then it means you've either stuffed something up changing the pads or there is a problem with the MC.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
i see anything broken or leaking. it's like a metal on metal click noise coming direct from that area. and no brake warning light is on. but on the bottom of master cal there is a small elec plug of some sort I can sort of see. it
it may not be an elec plug but looks like it. if is is nothings plugged in and I can't see a wire any wheee for it I'll take a. close look tomorrow. does repco or burson sell seal kits ?
Try removing the switch from the bottom of the master and pump the pedal a few times and re install the switch.
If the master cylinder is faulty it's not worth re kitting, far better to go with a new unit.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
There should be a connector that goes on the warning lamp switch under the MC (which is why you have no brake warning light).
I suggest you do a google on brake systems or similar and try and familiarise yourself with split/tandem brake master cylinders and how they work so that you can understand more just what is going on. I'd also visit a wrecker and have a good look at the setup under the MC.
If you have ABS you will need to be careful not to get air into the system as it can be hard to remove yourself.
Sometimes you can get good master cylinders from the wreckers which will be about half new prices...depends on what you want to spend, but I'd agree with RX25SE that rekitting would be a waste of time.
Final thought - the new pads went on OK?...no chance a piston has popped or a pad slipped out as this will cause the MC to click that switch, as will excessive air in the system. The brake warning switch will usually activate/click when the pedal goes almost to the floor. Good Luck.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
ah crap. aahahah i thought go buy a new master cyl and my problems will be over lol
If all you did was change the pads, then when the pistons went back into the calipers and pushed the brake fluid back to the M/C it's buggered it some how. You may get away with just changing the M/C - but I'd go over all the connectors and anything else that may have been bumped while changing the pads.
I think Hako is on the money tho...
White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's