thinking about putting a second battery in the car
as the title says im thinking about putting a second battery in the car but dont want to worry about get a dual battery kit so i thought of some other way to do it i have done a quick photo in paint
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5452673...n/photostream/
with the 12V switch will be like the dual battery kit turn the switch off just to charge the front end battery and turn the switch on to charge both at the same time i have an 100AMP alternator so it should cope with it what do you think?
a 200 amp switch is going to be expensive.
Why do you need 2 batteries?
Originally Posted by QuickVRII95
Because im going to be adding a couple of accessories to the car like UHF radio and a fridge for when going out to the country area and maybe a small amp for the radio and sometimes the car is a bit slow to start in the cold
Forced to be Fast
a UHF and fridge will be fine running of the one. unless u wanna run it all day from ur battery
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well when i do put the fridge in it will most likely stay on when the car is off because i like going riding down on the old rail trail in Gippsland and while im out riding i will leave the fridge on so when i come back the drinks will be cold with is good in summer lol
sick of the idiots here
that's a lot of work just to run a little fridge... thought of using ice in an esky?
seriously thought, the uhf is even with amp is not going to warrant a second battery. TRUST ME!
but if you are serious, use a small deep cycle battery in the boot in an approved sealed & secured box. Use this to run your fridge and remove it from the car when not in use.
Then you can properly maintain a trickle charge on your AUX battery, and you won't shock your car's system when it starts and has to charge two batteries. Believe me, that's a massive spike!
Real cars are steel cars.
You could wire a relay between the two batteries and switch it off the accessories circiut. This will connect them when the engine is running and isolate them when the engineis cranking or the key is removed.
Problem would be if one battery is low on charge, the charged battery may be overcharged.
You could investigate using a 12vDC to 12vDC float charger to prevent overcharging.
I would by a SLA battery and charge it at home rather than spending the money wiring it into the car.
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Donating Member
run battery cable from the front battery to the rear battery(maintenance free) and earth the rear battery to the body.house the rear battery in a battery box.
i have done this twice for a mate with 4 amplifiers running 5 subs,6x9s,7x10s,6 and a half inch speakers.
big sound system and one battery could just not handle it.the rear battery charges fine being hooked up this way.
you can put a kill switch in the engine bay just after the first battery so you can cut off the rear battery when needed.
yer thats prob the best idea
Thats what i was planing on doing but connect it to the startor motor and alternator and putt a switch in the dash so i can cut it off when ever
Donating Member
you don't need to connect it to the alternator.the way i described it is fine.both batteries get charged.
you can also put the kill switch in the cabin if you want too.just make sure you use good battery cable and terminals.
and also be careful where you run the cable to protect it from sharp edges etc.
well i mainly wanna connect it to the starter motor
i was going to have a look at 0 GAUGE wire would that be good enough ? were do you think i could get some of that?
Donating Member
you dont need to connect it to the starter motor.as the rear battery is connected to the front battery it is already connected to the starter motor.
0guage will be fine,try auto electricians,stereo installers etc.
Donating Member
I had one of these in my 4-bee DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR ABR SIDEWINDER DBi120 *NEW MODEL* (eBay item 290521628267 end time 21-Jan-11 02:41:19 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
worked a treat and was heaps cheaper than anything the shops were selling in town. It wont switch on till its getting above 13volts, which is generally after your car has started, so no drain on your main battery. Well worth $75 if you ask me...
Ecotech Power
Tom's Uterus - Manual + Bench seat
I have some details of my Dual battery setup in here.
I used This isolator.
The setup is a piece of piss to install, about 2-3 hours depending how much trouble you have with running the wires.
Buy the isolator, and if you want the option to not run it all the time, grab a switch, then head to an auto-lec tell them you need x metres of Cable to run from starting battery to isolator and then to second battery for charging, I cant remeber what size it is. For the fridge sockets, run 4mm 15-20 amp wire, its over kill, but over kill is great.
Remember to fuse every socket you run off the battery and from as close to the battery as possible. The Isolator does not require a fuse.
Shoot me a PM if yu go down this way and got more questions.
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