hey guys
i had the thought of getting a super charger off the supercharged v6 and putting it in my v6 manual ute...
im assuming that it should bolt straight on, but am unsure on what else will need to upgraded.
thinking may need to upgrade injectors to 36lb 380cc?
any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
will need your ECU re-tuned and also the heads off the L67 Motor. Probably the wiring harness? Probably will need more, but unsure as to what!
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
A search should find some more as the question has been asked a few times before. Yes, heads - the injectors are located in the heads with the S/C. The S/C has a lower compression ratio and stronger pistons and rods. The engine balance and the balancer/accessory drive pulley is different and just swapping the balancer onto a NA engine will result in an engine imbalance.
be cheaper getting a whole s/c motor and putting it in. or close to the same price.... if ya put a s/c on a ecotec you'll spend heaps of cash and spend alot of time and end up with something that isnt as good and never will be, isn't as strong as the s/c motor and wont last as long..........if ya get a whole l67 s/c motor for a couple of grand and will be tougher, last longer, get no problems and can mod' the hell out of it and get it going good knowing its all pretty strong......
i were guna do the same and put a s/c on my ecotec but once i read into it and how much is different and how much stuff you really need, plus ^^ the balance thing, weaker bottom end, and the hassles i just got the whole l67s/c motor and ecu for $2000, dropped it in and was finished.
To be honest. The L67 and ecotec bottoms are the same. Its the heads and up thats different. You can find cheap L67 conversion kits, the bottom should be able to handle a max of 10PSI.
The block and the crank are the same, but I believe the L67 rods and pistons were stronger and also achieve the lower compression
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To be honest you have no idea what your talking about and shouldnt make suggestions unless you do.
Cermaic coated pistons and different compression ratio , harmonic balancer is different , ECU and harness , full exhaust required just to name a few things.
The heads are identical with the exception of the holes for the injectors.
Buy a complete L67 motor and dont waste your time trying to swap parts.
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When you do things right, people won’t be sure you’ve done anything at all,,,,,,,,,
353RWHP L67 VS S Pack 6 Speed
Kalmaker Tuning Software N03 N04 N05 N06 N07 N08 W00 W10 W20 W21 W30 W31
W40 W41 W45 W46 W50 W51 W55 W56 W81 W85 W86 W91 W95 W96
Best jump onto the L67torque forum. You'll find loads of info on this. As has already been covered, it's not quite as simple as bolting on the blower and away you go.... Although very similar to the ecotec, there is alot of parts different. By far the easiest, strongest and most likely cheaper option is to buy yourself a complete L67 long motor and do a swap with your ecotec.
Just to list some of the different parts you'd need to do a 'top swap' include heads, lower inlet manifold, blower and intake, different tensioners and pullies, alloy coolant pipe, harmonic balancer, vacuum hoses, pcm tune, fuel rails, 36lb injectors, L67 wiring harness or modify your existing one, alternator (regulator will foul on fuel rails if ecotec one is used) etc etc. That's probably the bulk of it, but there will still be many other little fiddly bits and pieces i've forgotten that would have to be sourced and all add to the cost and time.
L67's also run a different balance factor to the ecotec, so, to just bolt this upto your manual box may result in some unwanted balance vibrations. The L67 flex plate balance factor would need to be mirror balanced to your manual flywheel. A manual box with any decent amout of power infront of it you're also better to convert to a solid flywheel and do away with the dual mass (assuming you have a getrag 5 speed since your ute is series 3).
By the time you've done all this, you've still got the weaker ecotec (L36) bottom end which as has already been covered is a little different. The l67 runs far stronger shot peened rods that will handle alot more punishment and also lower compression pistons (8.5:1) to handle the boost. The higher compression of the ecotec (I think 9.8:1 from memory???) wont really handle anymore than the stock 5-6 psi boost or you'll start causing more problems and detonation etc.
So yes, with great expense and time tracking down all the bits it can be done, but at the end of the day in my opinion you'd be far better off doing a complete L67 motor swap.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Chris.
cheers guys,
so with all those supercharger kits out there for the ecotech really wouldnt be much good either in terms of the pistons and bottom end n all n all that....
how hard would it b to change the wiring loom from the l67 to work with a manual?
and yea i have the getrag box in there
Wiring will be the least of your issues , the ECU just needs to be told its a manual , your biggest concern is going to be clutches , the low down torque just kills them !
www.l67torque.com • Index page if you want imformation and more accurate answers from people who dont just guess the reply.
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KAL do you have any more info on using a Ecotec auto PCM (VS) running a L67 manual? i know i can use the ecotec engine loom and use the L67 tune, but what about turning off the auto parameters (to avoid CEL coming on etc..)?
Cheers
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Not sure mate, have had nothing to do with ECU but Im pretty sure a L36 ECU wont work with L67 , I could be wrong though.
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Really? Had a look, mines the same service number so should be ok, there wouldnt be too many difference in the loom so i figure i should be right. only one way to find out![]()
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Everything you will ever need to know about supercharged V6 is on that forum ^^^^
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already a member since ages ago but hardly ever visit, just figured id ask you whilst you were posting here on the topic lol
Power is measured in DECIBEL
Streetwagon, if service numbers are the same it should run, but not well. Probably only good enough till you get a proper tune sorted out and I wouldn't be giving it heavy throttle. Will probably throw up an engine light too. What are your plans for a final tune? Maybe best to Contact Dick from Dicks Electronics to burn you a base l67 tune to suit a manual box. This is what im doing with mine while I run it in till I go mafless.
for the time being ill be running a standard s/c v6 auto tune, The PCM i have is service number 16210672 and apparently there is a s/c v6 specific 16210672 PCM. I'm anticipating the engine light and stalling issues due to the VSS not being read as I need a PCM that reads a T5 VSS (which are quite rare) but the s/c v6 16210672 PCM is capable of this i hear. then all is required is to re-pin/rewire the VSS to PCM and turn off auto flags in the tune... or so im hoping lol. i've got a spare VT PCM here to so may look into using that... visit to Dicks may be in order however lol.
Cheers
Power is measured in DECIBEL