cooling system, overheating, i've replaced almost everything Help!!
Hi everyone. I posted earlier about my VS running hot. It used to sit at about the 2nd the 3rd notch on the temp guage and it started running at the 5th to 6th notch and higher. I could drive for about 20 min before it got to that point.
Anyway, Over the past week and a half i have replaced the thermostat, the wiring for the fan, the temp sensor, the coolant temp sensor, the waterpump and backflushed the radiator and put new coolant through it. Its still running hot. In fact if anything it seems to be running hotter now than ever. The temp on my half hour school run this morning ran to one notch below H.
Fan runs on both speeds and kicks in and out, coolant not spurting out anywhere, no leaks, Hoses look brand new. Radiator looked fairly new and while the flush did get some stuff out it was minimal.
Am i missing something?
Was the coolant system bled of air, is it using any water or is any water getting into the oil?
I would also see if you can check to see if the guage is working correctly.
Check out the bottom radiator hose whilst someone is reving the engine a bit,even though the hose may look fairly new, they can get weak over time,especially the cheaper brand radiator hoses,and they can suck in and collapse from the suction of the water pump,this then blocks the coolant flow into the engine.Some bottom radiator hoses have a metal spring going through them to stop them from collapsing in.Other than this, Id probably also consider fitting a new radiator if the old one is a few years old.On ebay,they are only $80 or thereabouts,which is a pretty good price for a brand new radiator delivered to your door.The old one might have a few blocked tubes that backflushing cant unblock.Then,if the new radiator doesnt make any difference, Id consider taking it to a radiator specialist or a mechanics and getting them to do a cooling system pressure test and a compression test on the engine,these tests will confirm if theres any problems with any of the engines gaskets or cooling system including the the head or inlet manifold gaskets etc.These tests are cheap to get done and are the only real way of telling the condition of the cooling system and gaskets etc.Also check out the A/C condenser,this is the radiator looking thing that sits in front of the actual radiator for the engine,because it sits in front of the radiator,it cops all the bugs ,dirt and crap,which slowly blocks it up over time.You can remove the radiator and then blow the condenser out backwards with a good strong water or compressed air stream.
Donating Member
Stupid question I know, but it's been done before - has the thermostat been installed wrong way around - this means the wax pellet that senses heat is on the cool side and not the hot side. This results in a very slow acting thermostat...it eventually opens but not till the heat has 'leaked' thru the thermostat body. As an example of how easy this is to do, I just checked a brand new thermostat in my shed - on the wax pellet side it is marked "to rad" with a small arrow pointing up. The problem with this is that if you install it with the "to rad" on the radiator side (cold side) you have done it wrong....it's the other side that goes to the radiator.
This is not uncommon even with mechs who know their business.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Cooling system was pressure tested last monday. All good or so the radiator doctor said. Hasn't been done since as we have been replacing parts ourselves to save money. Radiators on ebay are only $100 if your looking at the older commodores. I have a series 2 so its more closer to $200. Hence the reason why we back flushed it first.
Oil is good, we are not running through coolant, level has stayed the same pretty much the whole time. Then again coolant has been replaced several times over the last few weeks as everythings been replaced. Everytime somethings been done we've used the bleed valve to get rid of any air. We've checked all the hoses while the engine has been running, all hoses are good.
I guess its time to just bite the bullet and buy a new radiator. Just over the money pit you know.
The series 2 VS V6 radiators with the screw on transmission cooler fittings are only around $100 still. Check this one out.Originally Posted by Miss_BB
---Holden Commodore Radiator VS 3.8L V6 7/1996-98 SERIES 2 (eBay item 200533862067 end time 20-Mar-11 10:21:40 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats---
Donating Member
Here is a cheaper one with the screw on fittings for $85 DELIVERED. Holden VN-VP-VR-VS Commodore V6 Radiator NEW #1 Quality (eBay item 260498876974 end time 24-Mar-11 10:18:33 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
and check that thermostat!
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Thank you for this. I will check the thermostat, although i think even if the guy did install it wrong i could never get him to admit it you know. This guy is the one who swore to me that he was positive it wouldn't be the radiator, now look where i am....
I'll buy the new radiator too. $85 is doable but not the $250 they are charging up here. Just have to baby my car until it gets here. Sad to say i think i may need to get me a new car. Thinking about it as much as i love them my history with commodores means they don't love me.
Donating Member
Buying another car sometimes may seem easier, but you have to sell your old one for which you need a RWC (more$$$) and find one to buy at the right price. Remember that not many people sell a car that is 100% and you may be buying their problems. VS Commodores are pretty good value for money compared to other makes and have the room you need. Better the devil you know.......
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
what about the fan speed relays...
when i got my vs ute, it would sit on the 2 temp bar cruising, but under or about 60kms it would go up to half way...
driven a few vs's before, i know the temp should pretty much always sit on the 2-3 bar...
i did all that you have done, replaced the lot... no fix, in the end, the low speed on the fan wasn't kicking in., replaced the relay, all sweet, normally sits on the 2nd bar, hasn't moved past the 3rd bar since i fixed it.
Fan speed relay was the first thing fixed as aparently the fan wasn't going fast enough for the radiator guy. Now when high speed kicks in it sounds like i have a helicopter under my bonnet. Will have to look at the reciept to know for sure whether it was replaced or just fixed. In any case it works well.
Diagnostician
Welsh plugs may need replacing.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Sounds like you practically have covered everything except for the radiator and also gauge itself.
Assuming its an auto have you checked the transmission fliud level?
Might sound daft but the radiator cools the trans fluid and if its low that gives it less time to cool when its circulating causing the water cooling system to get extra hot.
I cant remeber the steps to check the fluid level correctly, i think its warm up and check it when the engine is warm and while its idling, i know its in the owners manual if you have one.
Sounds like all you have left is the radiator after that.
Shambos Ride! Check it out!
Transmission is fine, even has its own fancy extra large cooler as i used to tow a camper trailer behind me for holidays. Just about to get a radiator. Looking at 2nd hand for now just as i can get one to me sooner, and have it fixed sooner.
Can anyone tell me if a radiator from a VR series 2 will work on my VS? I know after 96 the design got changed.
at idle, in park, when does the first fan kick in? half way? etc?
also does it cool down and switch off(check this while still at idle in park) or does high speed kick in after a while of the low speed been on?
Normally when low speed kicks in, it should run for about a minute or so, and be sufficient to cool it down and switch the fan off after that.
Brand new vs radiators on ebay for only $90
It should fit it just depends if its a screw on or push on connection
I had similar issues. Before you buy a radiator chuck on a new radiator cap $10 from any auto shop...might not be holding enough pressure.
Donating Member
VR radiator will not fit a series 2 VS due to trans cooler connections and don't be tempted to bodgy up the connections as if they come loose you blow your trans!!. Has your mech screwed the plugs out to check if any are showing signs of a leaky head gasket which is leaking hot gases into the coolant etc...that is normally one of the first things you'd do.
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
Real cars are steel cars.
Before you buy a new radiator, I would do the following in addition to the above suggestions.
Get a mechanic to connect a scan tool and read the engine temp from that. This will take the reading from the coolant temp sensor (for the PCM) rather than the sensor for the gauge. You may just have a faulty gauge.
Run the engine from cold and feel the top hose. When the the thermostat opens, it should get hot very quickly. With the scan tool connected, it will give you an idea if the thermostat is opening at roughly the correct temp.
This is a bit rough, but it sort of works. With the top and bottom hoses disconnected, block the bottom hose outlet with your hand and have someone fill the radiator. Quickly remove your hand and note the rate at which the radiator drains. This may tell you if the radiator is blocked.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
ok guys, got more info for you. Replaced the radiator today with a brand new one and.........
Its still overheating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The only thing is the high speed fan kicks in but kicks out after only a few seconds no matter how hot it all goes. Any thoughts?
Diagnostician
Have you done your inlet manifold gaskets? If they have kicked it then it can be causing it to overheat.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
A Memcal a Day Keeps..
fans should only cut out if temps have been reduced to cutout levels usually low fan should be enough if high fan is coming on its getting hot id be checking coolant temp sensor with scantool pitty your not near enough to toowoomba
does it actually get very toasty under the bonnet cause you say the fans are cutting in and out so maybe only temp gauge
Donating Member
You did get the mechanic to check the thermostat was in the correct way, didn't you?
"If anyone disagrees with anything I say, I am quite prepared not only to retract it, but also to deny under oath that I ever said it." --T. Lehrer
"The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that you've got it made." -- Jean Giraudoux
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