so i had a search nothing really came up other than on post that wasnt really helpful.
so today i was driving and my fuel and temp guages didnt move they just sat at zero, so far having the car less than a week ive noticed the fuel guage to be a bit jumping but after driving 10 mins it comes fine but today nothing. anyone know whats up?
thanks
tap the dash that get them working
it will probably be the votage regulator in the cluster. It gets very hot and the solder joints crack. A little sodler action and you can have it fixed.
Last edited by 88GreenVN; 04-03-2011 at 02:20 PM.
White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's
oh okay cause i try not to leave it in the sun but the dashgets rather hot so you thinki tcould be the wires?
hit the dash on the top above the gauges. I do this all the time to get the speedo and fuel gauge working.
you reckon it might be your fuel sender and temp sensor playing up. Mine does that too (just the fuel gauge), shows a bit of a reading (not sure how acurate though) and then dies. When I flick it onto gas however, the fuel guage reads fine.
My vs does it aswell, its becomes a regular thing for me now. Turn the key, hit the dash lol
Yeah pretty common. Mine both do it and so have previous ones I've owned. Give em a tap and they're right.
lol seriously does hitting the dash work? ill try it tomrrow haha
yes it works.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
My VS II Berlina Wagon
MY12 II SV6 Sportwagon
it worked haha
hahaha, welcome to the 'tapping the dash club'
i have to do it once a day to get my fuel or temp gauge working.
some passengers whom have no idea what i'm doing stare in disbelief sometime....
For all those prone to dash bashing (yes the little taps turn into thumps and then degrade to bashing) the voltage regulator inside the cluster has a few cracked solder joints.
Pull out the cluster and remove the little PCB behind the speedo and resolder to stop the bashing..![]()
White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's
I was a dash basher until a week ago when my fuel gauge stopped all together. Since then I have changed the fuel/temp section of the cluster with a new one. Still no joy, could this dry socket issue be my problem? Or when I replaced the fuel / temp gauges did I eliminate this?
No I didn't, I wasn't even aware of this issue before, hence buying a new fuel / temp gauge. Now since I've become aware of the voltage regulator issue the only thing I keep reading about it is, it's the way to fix a "sticky" gauge. Not an inoperative one. So I guess my question is, does the voltage regulator solder connection issue commonly cause the fuel gauge to become completely inoperative?
Sure will. starts off with it not working on the odd occation thought to dead. If you pull it out and have a look at the solder joints you may well find tell tail signs of "cracked rings" on the solder joints. Quick dob of solder should see it working again.
The other issue it could be is a broken track on the PCB (green backing on the cluster) Have a good close look while the cluster is out.
Last edited by 88GreenVN; 11-04-2011 at 10:47 PM.
White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's
Thanks ill pull her apart again tomorrow and have a squiz.
Well i pulled mine apart again and didnt notice any issues with the solder joints, but i re soldered them again anyway as per instructions on here. I checked the PCB for cracks / damage and no probs there either. Put her back together and no joy......................... So now she has a re soldered voltage regulator and brand new fuel temp gauge!!!! Im wondering where to go now? Is it possible that the issue is on the other end down at the tank???
If the tan wire at C1#5 has no volts then the connector at the tank may be the issue - but the temp gauge has a different feed - the green wire so I'd look at the earth side of things first.
To test the gauge - just touch 12v for a second or 2 direct from a battery (they only use about 10 v max so dont do it for too long)
White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's
88GreenVN Thanks for your help, i was wondering if i could plug in a L2 V6 cluster just to help with trouble shooting? I have a L2 v6 one handy which i can use to troubleshoot. I know the tacho and temp gauges would be inacurate but i was thinking if i could just plug it in and see if i get a fuel reading at all then this confirms my cluster is f#@%&^ed up somewhere...
Also ive found a change over cluster at a local wreckers, the only thing is the part # is 92053366 which the late vs cluster model, my current cluster is 92042478. Does this matter? Whats changed after that build date?
I just found your other thread here which says how these numbers match up Vn, Vp, Vq, Vr & Vs Calais Cluster P/n
Last edited by Maccar; 13-04-2011 at 05:26 PM.
Yes the wires are the same in the dash for V6 or V8 so as long as you use a VR/VS cluster it will help you trouble shoot.
White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's