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Thread: Shitty VR idle

  1. #1
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    V6 VR Acclaim

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    Angry Shitty VR idle

    Okay...

    I'm at my wits end with this car. It's a V6 VR and right now it's having more problems than I ever wanted it to have. I just finished replacing the fuel pump (Died in a parking lot, spent hours on glass and gravel fixing it, YAY) and power steering rack + pump etc.. (All of these unrelated but I'm just venting. The problem is to do with something.. But it was happenening BEFORE the petrol pump was replaced, so its not that).

    ANYWAY. My car seems to like stalling randomly. It's when its warmed up and cold, so it's kind of annoying. There has been no error codes saved or anything like that. The Idle is INCREDIBLY low when I first start the car and often when I come to a stop after driving (Low as in.. Probably under 500, the needle barely moves above the first little line after 0). Sometimes it stalls because of this and sometimes its just like "Oh you're not accelerating... BLEGHH" when I'm under 20 k's.

    Could anybody be of assistance in finding this little annoying POS gremlin?

  2. #2
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    VB SL/E

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    Where to start, how are the plugs/leads?
    Check coils?
    IAC?
    Temp sensor?
    Vacuum leaks?
    Dud injector?
    All the usual checks...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by VR38 View Post
    Where to start, how are the plugs/leads?
    Check coils?
    IAC?
    Temp sensor?
    Vacuum leaks?
    Dud injector?
    All the usual checks...
    Coils are fine same with the plugs/leads.. IAC and Temp sensor will be replaced on Wednesday. No vacuum leaks.. And don't even wanna start on the injectors.. I was just hoping to get some input. The car drives perfectly fine once my foot touches the accelerator, just not before hand.

  4. #4
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    1997 VS COMMODORE,1996 GTS-R COMMODORE

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    Have you checked the fuel filter,you might also have to start on the injectors it sounds like its not receiving fuel but once you pump the pedal its ok,get some injector cleaner and see how that goes

  5. #5
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    also clean the throttle body out had the same prob on mine so i took it off and cleaned it out and was so much smoother at idle
    (AKA TINTMAN)

  6. #6
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    Okay so.. I "reset" the ECU (Therefore the IAC Valve along with everything else) today and the car ran beautifully for about an hour or so. I got home, stopped, started it back up again and it went back to its usual crap. Does this help along with the diagnosis at all? I'm beginning to think more and more of a sensor issue.

  7. #7
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    VB SL/E

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  8. #8
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    Yeah... I know. This is what has me stumped. Why would resetting the ECU have any effect at all if it wasn't a sensor though? Othan than the fact the idle is naturally higher until it "remembers" it's stuff again.

  9. #9
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    Remove the throtle body, then remove the IAC valve. Use spray type carby cleaner on the throtle body, dont spray any rubber parts...Get in there with a tooth brush and scrub the IAC ports and the butterfly area.

    The IAC motor.
    You can use carby cleaner in the tip end with some light brushing. Dont spray the rest ,I use an marine type engine tuner, dont try to turn or push the tip/plunger end...
    Refit it and see how it goes...
    Fixes them most of the times..

  10. #10
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    Finally managed to pull a code from the ECU today. Code 45 which is O2 sensor rich.

    Contributing factor or just a result of me havent not yet replacing/cleaning the IAC?

  11. #11
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    Replace the IAC as cleaning it often fails to fix it.
    White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
    and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's


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