Hey Guys,
My Calais is having the Check engine light come on at 90ks and over. I have pulled the Codes and they came back as 31 - Theft Deterrent Signal missing, all good, not overly fussed about it and 68 - Transmission Component Slipping.
For the code 68 is there just a bit I can replace or is it something for a Transmission place to investigate?
Thanks
Mumbo
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Yeah it needs changing badly, looking a bit black. Was a bit low for a bit as who ever last Changed the oil didn't tighten up the Pan bolts tight enough... Only found out when I got under to put a missing bolt in.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
if it's a bit black id say all the rubbers arnt happy, you can try changing with fresh oil but the damage is already done if it's slipping.
Yeah sometimes when it changes from 1st to second it can be a bit rough in changing... So I guess I'm up for a new gearbox.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
once it's in gear give it a bootfull and see if it slips at all, if it doesn't you may only need new shift solenoids or accumulator seals etc, give the valvebody a freshn up and some new fluid.
Yeah if I give it a bootful, get the rev up to say 3 - 3.5 before it changes, its nice and smooth. Will sometimes change smoothly when It only rev's up to 2 - 2.5 before it changes gear.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
if it's just slipping between shifts it could be accumulator pistons, there's 3 of them can get them from the place below, if your not confident working on a trans then get a auto specialst to check it out.
Upgraded Soft Parts : Furious Performance, Online Performance Parts Store
So these Would these be accessible after taking the Pan off?
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
the valvebody has the come out, so remove the pan then unclip all the connectors and unbolt the valvebody, then it's just a matter of replacing them like in the pictures, just keep everything in order and there is springs in each of them.
Okies, may have a crack at it, although it may work out better if a Transmission place does it.... Might have to order them from Repco. Thanks for your help The1
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
no probs, if you take it to a trans place they should be able to do a full flush to and get rid of the old crap oil out of it as well.
my vr did that when the transmisson was fried in the end i had to push it to get it to move lol then it warmed up it went then slipped every now again
Yeah think I might grab this problem before it gets fried LOL. $60 For the parts is better then $400 for another gearbox.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
I have a 4L60E out of my VT Berlina, I was wondering if the Accumulators would be the same? If not would the process of removing them be basically the same?
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
the forward accumulator in the aussie 4l60e as far as ive worked out is plastic which cracks, the forward accumulator supplies pressure to the forward clutches and takes the brunt of the pressure when changing between drive and reverse, you can replace these with a alloy variant with new seals which should last better. The 1-2 is alloy but can be changed with the pan off also, the 3-4 accumulator is on the other side of valve body so it has to come out if you want to change it, but it's alloy as standard and rarely fails "apparently". For $10 odd each you can throw a forward and 1-2 accumulator piston in and see if it helps.
So in answer to my question the 4L60 and the 4L60E accumulator pistons are able to be interchanged with each other?
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
no some of them are different to i think, here's a photo, not sure if the forward accumulator piston is removable without valve removal. I aint a trans specialist lol im sure someone here is though.
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Thanks heaps The1, I might go practice on my 4L60E to get a general idea on how to do them, that way it will be easier once I get around to doing it on the CalaisThanks for all your help and the Photo.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Ok changed my 1-2 Accumulator and it's still changing rough as even when revving it to 3k. We did notice however when we took the Valve body off that the gasket was broken and 2 of the ball bearings were stuck in the gasket.... Thinking this may have something to do with it?
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Sounds like it, id now go check the year stamped on the valvebody then go and buy a new plate and gaskets, get transgo ones, alot thicker and tuffer material, the stock plates were apparently very soft and it's a known problem.
Alright awesome, will get our Reception lady to order me one tomorrow and Will get the Trans place down the road to put it in![]()
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
You can also buy this valve boby plate repair kit , a lot cheaper from any auto trans supplier. But the thing is when this steel ball get stuck in the plate it will burn the clucthes inside, like the 3,4 friction clutches. Like you mentioned before the oil bit black, so chances are either 2nd hand or rebuilt....
Nar oil turned out to be brown more then black but still with a red tinge to it. The Pan gasket was completely stuffed and ripped up the middle of it.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!
Got the Trans plate gaskets today, Will put them in tomorrow and hope for the bestWill let you know how it all goes.
If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!